People do not want to learn how to read or write anymore, that is why Emojis were invented.
Be thankful we still have videos, but I also do prefer reading a review rather than watching a video because it usually takes a lot less time.
Oh, c’mon, don’t you love those “detailed” 20min reviews where the first 18min is dedicated to the Grand Unboxing?
“Oh, this looks like the clip…. Hmm, it must go on the light right around here.”
[twiddle thumbs for 8min while the reviewer tries fitting the clip on the light 4 different ways]
“And these must be… uhhh… extra O-rings, I think. They must fit in the light somehow.”
“And the battery must go in this way… nope, the other way… wait, I was right the first time around…”
Gaaaah!
30sec of content padded out to 20min of boredom.
At least with Matt’s vids, you don’t end up nodding off midway. 
Hahahaha!!!
”This is the desiccant. The printing on it wore off, so I can’t tell what the nutritional value is. I wonder if it contains any omega-3 fatty acids or lycopine.”
HAHAHAHHA 
Those aren’t dessicants, those are the free seasoning packets. Bon appetit. 
Gotta be this little fella.
I still struggle to find the appeal of these other than being hot rods and nicely machined. The burst in lumens is so short lived.
My edc is a Zebralight sc64w hi. The single emitter runs more efficiently from both a heat and battery life standpoint and its nice not having optics which I feel significantly reduce the throw.
Thank you for the video Matt, keep them coming!
I totally agree about the lumen burst, it’s more of a grinworthy gimmick than something I’ll ever use in a practical sense. In fact the heat build up is so quick it worries me to use it.
I’ve had the shorty tube and 18350 cell in it for the last three nights and used it around the house at night, letting it run as a bedside light and shining into the garden to get the dogs in and it’s dropped from 4.2V to 3.8V. Each night I’ve set the timer to gradually reduce the output and shut off over the period of an hour, and because it’s new I’ve been playing with it a lot.
I’m more than happy with the flood beam of the XPL HI 3D for general use, but it’s the aesthetics of the copper and blue glow markers that complete the appeal.
I find LM10 incredibly ugly…as opposed to the elegant FW3A.
I guess there’s something to suit different tastes. 
agree - to me it is not attractive…
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
To me, the FW3A feels pretty flimsy and slippery. And its simple machining makes it look cheap.
In contrast, the LM10 has a unique rugged look. It feels like it is a much more durable light and feels much less slippery and more secure in the hand.
I agree, that the FW3A looks more sleek & refined. But the LM10 has grown on me. I like its rugged looks, but the price is a bit of a put-off. I’m going to look for a possible discount sale later on in the year.
I consider two types of EDC:
- Small enough to sit in your pocket without being felt, typically your 1xAAA or custom mini battery type.
- Large enough to be powered by an 18650, while small enough to still ride in a pocket (though you’ll definitely feel it)
I was a real fan of the Jetbeam-U, for it’s super small length-diameter hosting an AAA, as well as high quality anodizing, body sculpting, and reasonably spaced modes. The tint is cooler than I prefer, though. So, I convinced myself to pocket the Lumintop CuTool Nichia 219C AAA for a while and despite the lesser output on high, I’ve come to love it. It is my “corner pocket” EDC now.
For the larger pocketable EDC, it’s a tie between the Lumintop FW3A and the Zebralight SC64c LE. The Zebralight has just the right body design with wonderfully large recessed side switch, pleasing tint, and excellent efficiency. Alas, it has an unusual UI and there’s no physical customization possible. But then there’s the FW3A. Anduril UI totally opens up this light to wonderful possibilities. Plus, the BLF team was smart in design, allowing a wide range of user customization via simple parts swapping. It’s so easy to customize. For these reasons, the Lumintop FW3A has to be my favorite EDC.
A couple of simple changes eliminates the slippage problem. I installed a nice big O-ring that sits just below the bottom tail cap lip, and also a segment of bicycle inner tube. The aesthetic has grown on me. The inner tube provides excellent gripping and the O-ring is a nice auxiliary grip.
i use my fw3a with ww tint from the group buy most i have a copper version also but not using it so much, i think they went way out of hand with the lm10… too expensive and just looks weird… the idea from start was a cheap good budget light with good tints - not a luxury light….
Not sure if the SC64c has it, but the SC64w and 64w Hi do have the ability to custom-program the mode settings. It’s fairly easy to custom program the UI so it functions like an Olight (long press from off for low, double-click high, press and hold to ramp up modes).
I tried something like that. I installed Talon Grip tape on one of my FW3As.
This completely fixed the slippage problem. But the light still feels quite flimsy and cheap … especially compared to the LM10.
Titanium is expensive and doesn't shed heat well (like aluminum does.)
I'll take a FW3A any day over the LM10. 
Yes, the SC64c does have some limited custom-program mode settings, as it should be the same driver as on the SC64w. Mine is set for long press from off for low, single click for high in last used mode group, and double-click from off for medium, then press+hold to ramp up. While on, double-click changes mode groups. It’s a decent UI, and I appreciate the strobe modes flexibility… but I’m getting spoiled by Anduril.
Yes, that does look good, the Talon Grip tape. My FW3A doesn’t feel flimsy. Maybe it’s your button that’s the problem? I couldn’t stand how loose it was out of the box. But I installed an o-ring in place of the nubbin and now it’s firm enough to reduce accidental activation. Screw threads on parts have excellent tolerance, so no problem there. The inner tube as cut in the photo above enables easy 3 finger control without slippage.
I performed the o-ring mod on most of my FW3 series lights (several FW3As, two FW3Ts, FW3C, LM10). In pretty much all cases it greatly improves the feel of the switch.
However, even with the o-ring mod, some of the FW3 switches are just stiffer than others. The stiffest of the bunch is installed in my FW3T… it requires something like 4.6 lbs of pressure to activate. I could stand a BLF GT on the switch and it would not trigger. Very nice.
That said, the flimsy feeling of the FW3A isn’t caused by the switch. Rather it’s due to the very thin aluminum. Anodized aluminum also has the constant worry that if I drop it, I will scuff it up or dent it. I never worry about that with titanium.
Generally I like FW3A and it variations(don’t see any big difference between all these 21A,1A and so on.) But it mostly lies on a shelf. It isn’t enough universal to be my EDC.
I like my FW3A a lot after I did the O-ring mod, but it just doesn’t pack enough throw for me to feel great about it outdoors.
By no means am I looking to carry a thrower… it’s just that my SC62w can toss a beam across the field at the park by my house and maintain it until the battery’s empty. For the FW3A to hit the far trees, I have to pop it into turbo, and I lose the trees after a minute or so of temperature-control ramping. Great hand-warmer in the colder months, though.