[1900k edition is in!] WTS: 1900k-5800k 5mm LED 95+ CRI

Yes it takes two or three iterations at most per pin. And sometimes the hole is blocked, so when resoldering, I just press the LED pins onto the solder and heat it up to get them through. No magic on my side :wink:

I did a write up a couple years back when I modded one. This doesn’t necessarily tell much beyond what has been said here, but you might give it a look:

I clamped the head in a hobby vice while desolding the PCB, then clamped the PCB in a “3rd hand” tool while desoldering the LED.

Good luck.

By the way, a while back, it was possible to order spare Sofirn C01 drivers on request. I don’t know if they are still available, or even if the driver would fit in the R01A, but if you have some dead drivers, perhaps it is possible to replace them.

Actually your write up is what drove me towards the R01A as the host for this swap. I had started with the Nitecore Tube, but like everyone says, that died after about a month. Thanks all again for the info!

Edit: Turns out the Nitecore was fine. Poor solder joint came undone, possibly by sitting on it. Not exactly a fault of the light.

The whole light or just the LED? I know Tubes deliver too much current in high mode to reach thousands of hours of lifetime (or even hundreds), but hope they will last for a long time in low mode. I have some of them with nrgwn’s LEDs.

I used it mostly on low mode, only seldomly going into high levels. I still have it I think, may try a different LED. Either way, maybe I just got a dud, and will try again. Thanks!

Edit: Poor solder joint came undone, possibly by sitting on it. Not exactly a fault of the light.

I’ve got a few more items for post-lockdown. I have sent a few more stuffs for Djozz for reviewing:

4000k 5mm - I re-ordered this because the manufacturer accidentally sent out 5000k instead of 4000k.
4000k 3mm
3200k 3mm

3200k 5mm - Claimed to be able to take 150ma without issues, but I will wait for the result.

So I felt like I needed to revisit this comment. Got a Nitecore Tube UV cause I had gift card money that needed spending. Charge it up, used it a few times, and kept it in my pocket for the day. Within the first 2 days the light had died. Curious to see what the issue was I opened it up and discovered one of the LED leads was making poor contact. Tapped it with a soldering iron and it was good as new. Dug up my Rngwn emitter modded tube cause it seemed like more than coincidence another would break the same way, and sure enough, the lead wasn’t making good contact. I guess I was carrying these in my back pocket, and must has squished them with my ass or something lol. Either way they both work now and I felt retracting my previous comment.

Tube UV also included a little photon-freedom micro light knockoff. Made for the worlds easiest emitter swap with these LEDs!

Take a pack if true. Nice candidate for my remaining unmodified Tubes as they have a pad for the large cathod iirc.

Good to hear. Like those lights very much.

There was talk about missing LVP. Not sure if I should put one of them at stake and test it.

Good news,

Thailandpost has opened up the service for several more countries. You can check where you live here.

The caveat here is that the shipping cost has been raised for some countries. For example, U.S. and Canada’s shipping cost is now at $9 $10, as should have been $4.7.

2300K in the Osram Nightlux:

Shameless ad: Very sensitive to movement and light, on-time 10 or 60 seconds. Really good night light. Unfortunately the innermost compartement containing the LED PCB is glued and takes some patience to open. Everything else is screwed.

Found this product under other brand names.

This one looks neat, I need to get me some of these.

Osram = Sylvania in the US.
Product name is more generic, “LED Motion Sensor Light”

I like the idea and especially the mod, but I hate the 3xAAA format. (I know this is a cheap homeowner/consumer product so 3xAAA is the “right” design choice for such a product, but I just fundamentally don’t like it, lol.)

Works with Eneloops, although with greatly reduced runtime.

Or perhaps add some tiny buck/boost converter in it with ni-mh.

It is one PCB including LEDs. A PCB you stare at for some seconds and copper traces will come loose. Well designed in concept and firmware, but really s* electronics. Had to rewire this and that :person_facepalming:

Oh yeah the infamous FR1 boards. I love it when the copper trace blew open and spew all the hot flux and solder over my face every time the iron touches it. Luckily I’m wearing glasses so it didn’t get into my eyes.

Haha, well from a design engineer perspective, that sounds like it was designed just about perfect for the “cheap as possible, basically disposable” intent of this light! Obviously we at BLF want different, but we aren’t the intended market for this light. :SHRUG:

For the sake of identifying my LEDs I now add the SKU numbers (check on the OP).

Also Introducing RWN05-32K-C-EX. A love child hybrid between Yuji's 3200k and Nichia GS.

You get some of the High CRI and tint from Yuji's, and you get some of the power handling from Nichia GS (though not quite as good).

Here's Djozz's test compared with my standard 3400k R9080 and Nichia GS 4000k Rnn.

This one is much more expensive than the other 5mm LEDs. The price will be $9.5/20pcs (or $10.0 incl. handling fees).

The other SKU intruduced is RWN05-45K-B, the 2nd batch from the manufacturer whom I asked for 4000k emitter with 4500k CCT. The first batch ended up 5000k. This batch is closer to 4000k I asked, but ended up at 4500k instead, as tested by Djozz. The price will be $8.0 incl. handling fees.

CRI test pics are coming later.

Pics for RWN05-32K-C-EX (images taken by Djozz)


( ^ tint measurements were in the hotspot with led at 20mA)