Sofirn SP10 Pro (AA/14500/Andúril 2) - now available!

Now you got me envious :wink:
I still didn’t give up on getting one of those :+1:

Hum, I guess it is not just flickering , but I do recognize that it is not like a real candle! Nothing will ever look like a real candle, specially because of the fire’s “tint” and the flame’s random movements :wink:

Well, I do like and use firefly modes, as you know from our conversations about the RRT01.
At the same time, I admit that a good moonlight level (even if not as low as the RRT01 or the Reylight) would be good in this project.
This is a personal preference and opinion, of course, but I guess the the achievement or not of a firefly level shouldn’t hinder this project from being done.
And I like anduril, I confess :innocent: Even if it is not perfect :smiling_imp:

thanks guys :slight_smile:

I stand corrected,

With the right driver, Anduril will run on AA at firefly levels, with no flicker…

:beer:

If you’ve experienced this with the KR4 you’re not alone though. Like SammysHP said due to the driver itself very low levels can be unstable. Just how low it will stay stable depends on the individual light because of variances in the driver components.

Thanks for popping my balloon…

:smiley:

Interested.

There's work going on with the driver.

We have top men working on it right now.

Who?

Top .... Men

Indiana Jones of course...

+1 @ Tom E :-)

Thank you Tom E, ToyKeeper, Lexel and gchart for continuously supporting this project. Your expertise is highly appreciated. :THUMBS-UP:

Thanks also to SammysHP and Scallywag for your kind explanation of the flickering's root cause. So, we can officially call Andúril...

But a candle flickers! :smiley:

Interested, this is a cool project.
Regarding the magnet discussion on previous page, I’d rather there wasn’t one (or as an optional tailcap) to keep it as small and lightweight as possible, and to that end, I’d also prefer not supporting protected 14500s (granted that the driver will have a LVP) to keep it shorter, but maybe that’s not possible if the the body has to stay unmodified from the SP10S.

Wow,more than 1 year passed from the start of project.
They can do now a version with Eco mode memory for AA batt.?
Hope to get Anduril later

I made the design for this one based on the original driver replacing MCU and gave it to Sofirn to double check if the sort of reverse engeneered+scematic one matches the original
It seems there is slow progress confirming it and getting a prototype made

Were you able to put flashing pads on it?

yes and I should have posted a pic

I’m interested! Please put me on the list if there is one for this project.

If adding AA compatibility ALSO raises the price significantly… hell with AAs! Lets get some 14500 models built and out there today!

I mean… we ALL use li-on in all our OTHER lights and the 14500 is SUCH an improvement in output (why the public buys lights more than any other reason) over the AA. But I get the Catch 22… the “public” often wants to use Alkaleaks. BUT, the “public” will NEVER take the time to learn Anduril and a lot of reviews I’ve read (especially on Amazon) are flush with statements like, “I pushed the button twice and it went out of control- not for me so I sent it back. Thanks Amazon for the free (to me, but not the manufacturer) return shipping.”

Other way to see it is this in not an el-cheapo’ AA light (in any case). So aside from gifting to muggles and selling them on Amazon- both NOT into Anduril… the question is: do we get an Anduril SP10 any time soon? (how old is this thread?) :exclamation:

Okay, if you want to sell a light to The Muggle that takes AA-format cells (1.xV or 3.xV), you need to dumb it down somewhat to prevent those nice free Amazon returns. Howbow…

1C on/off

1H moonlight (from off), increment brightness (from on)

2C turbo (vs sustainable high)

3C nothing (ie, anything beyond 2C requires minor determination to get there)

4C lockout

5C momentary.

Unscrew/Rescrew to “reset” from any any any any any mode.

On powerup (including unscrew/rescrew), blink out battery voltage (X.Y volts normally, or 1-4 blinks for the developmentally-disabled).

Ie, no (other) blinkies.

Unless someone buys 10 of ‘em to stick on his kid’s b’day cake, who really needs candle-mode in an AA-format light? Or lightning mode, or even plain ol’ irritating strobe?

People don’t want ¼” drills. They want ¼” holes. Weirdos like us might want to be able to control-alt-tripleclick to get to cuttlefish mode, but the typical DD flashlight buyer would stumble upon that mode and sent it back just for spite. They’re used to their simple Mags and Dorcys and whatnot, and tossing ’em the keys to a 747 is just asking for trouble.

:+1: :+1: :+1: Yup! - and I’ll take a 737 TODAY :beer:

Getter’done!

Sorry, people – if it doesn’t work well on AA NiMH, I’m out.

I’m legally blind, and the way I avoid confusion between cells with different nominal voltages is to decree one voltage per size. That way, I can’t fry anything that uses 1.2V / 1.5V cells by putting 3.7V Li-Ions in it by mistake.

There’s so much stuff that uses AA or AAA that those have to be the choice in that size. There will never be Li-Ion 10440 or 14500 cells in my stuff.

(When I’m using Li-Ion, it’s always 18650 or 26650.)

Nice. Looks like the pad layout is different than the key that I bought for my Emisar lights. Is this layout available to purchase anywhere? Or is there a way I can easily adapt it?

Also, for whatever it’s worth, I tested the voltage of my kids SP10S when the Ladda AA in it stopped working, and it was at .897. So thereabouts is when the boost driver stops working.