this is an awesome project and I am very happy with the LT1 that I received yesterday. Thanks to all people that were involved in the creation of this fine lantern! I always appreciate the possibility to have a lot of features and being able to customize them, even though it can be a little confusing with just one button. Therefore I created my own small manual for placement in the battery compartment based on the one made by AmishBill, but compiled a little bit differently to fit my needs.
There are some LT1 with old version left. We decide to makes deal for these lantern on our website. You can get old lantern kit with $10 OFF than LT1 new version now.
Besies, we will produce make colored New LT1 lantern Desert Tan, Green, Orange, Even bare aluminum, you name it when old Lt1 sell out basically.
1.How to distinguish old version from new version?
Just got mine yesterday and this lantern is awesome. I will try to get into all the programming sometime today. Also check to see if it has the latest firmware and the pods discussed are connected. I’d love to have a case for it. Won’t be hard to find something that will work.
I wish the button could be illuminated all the time. While the lantern is on the button light is off.
It’s difficult to find the button when the lantern is on.
Does anyone know if LT1’s are in stock anywhere in the USA? I’m looking for a quick shipping time if possible. If not, I’ll just order from the Sofirn website. Thanks!
P.S. If anyone has one brand new in the box, that they want to get rid of… send me a PM.
I had a similar idea to this 6 month old post from djozz, and his suggestion is the only post that seems to have turned up in my search.
I just wanted to add that if anybody does this, I’m interested as well - thin FRP or flex PCB from Oshpark, or else an MCPCB in a group buy.
Or perhaps Clemence might be interested? The LH351D’s are pretty good, but I’d love to how the lantern looks with Optisolis or E17A’s in there, and perhaps try a slightly different CCT range.
So is the difference between version 4.3 and 5.0 strictly the USB C-C functionality? Or have there been any minor adjustments to the other functionality?
Given the tube diameter, I’m wondering if a beer cozy might fit on this. It would be a way to change at least part of the color for those who don’t want to wait until September to have a different colored body from black.
USB-C PD functionality like you mentioned, and 0 ohm resistors used to activate the 3/4 and 5 regulators as stock instead of having the pads manually bridged from the factory.
I think it was mentioned as a prior suggestion, but some DIP switches would be really nice in place of the solder bridges, even if they can be bridged using some graphite pencil lead.
@DBSAR Been meaning to get in and thank you for producing this thing. Heard you got the Covid-19 and had some difficulties, I’m hoping you’re ok and things are getting better.
Look mate, this lantern is the biz. Much as I love my old paraffin (kerosene) Tilleys and Vapalux lanterns and the old wick storm lanterns for my camping adventures, they are a faff to deal with. I have a big canvas bell tent and recently had a paraffin spill onto the outside canvas when the pole holding the lamp (luckily unlit) fell onto it.
Your lantern, with the warm/cool and Anduril is perfect for my needs. It’s currently sat beside me indoors in preference to the ceiling lights, and as soon as we can get out for a few nights in the campervan it’ll be getting some proper use. Good work fella
Do you know what was the rationale behind the “ohm resistors used to activate the 3/4 and 5 regulators as stock instead of having the pads manually bridged from the factory.” A minor adjustment overall for efficiency, or to address a particular issue? I also agree that dip switches can be a very useful way to customize functionality in a more semi-permanent fashion.
OK, good to know — thanks! Might be possible to utilize a neoprene cover for a water bottle, trimmed to fit.
The biggest reason for this (IMHO) was to remove a manual manufacturing step and related QC needs. The originals required the first pads to me manually soldered at the factory. More than one example made it past QC with incorrectly soldered pads. There’s no knowing how many were sent for rework or how much time was spent on this manual process. Adjusting the traces to accept factory placed 0 ohm resistors lets them be placed automatically and consistently like the other components.