After reviewing the Wurkkos TS70, I knew that I really liked it for it’s heft, solid build, and brightness. However, I wasn’t really a fan of the UI. Hold-for-off really gets on my nerves.
So… brain transplant! I took out the PIC and put in a attiny412 with a tweaked version of RampingIOS / D4V2 UI:
When powered up, the light comes in on turbo instead of the usual double blink then off.
Swapped tactical and lockout modes so that lockout is 4 clicks instead of 6
Added momentary moon and secondary low from lockout (inspired by Anduril)
Oh, and while I had it apart, I gave the XHP70.2 a slice. Overall, I like it much better now!!
Just a simple emitter swap. I dropped a sliced/polished dogfart in a D80v2.
From reading other people’s experiences with slicing the LH351D, I expected the CCT to shift a little bit more than it did. I measured 5200K pre-slice and 5000K after. Perhaps I didn’t remove enough of the dome.
The tint is very nice with a slightly pinkish hotspot and a little bit of a yellow shift in the corona. I can see some slight artifacts around the hotspot on a white wall but outside it’s not noticeable at all.
Nice work! I have a Olight S1 Titanium that could use a better emitter. I found one video that starts disassembly (removal of bezel) but haven’t seen anything after that. Did you follow a site or other video for removal of the pill to access the emitter?
Finally got around to doing an emitter swap on my beloved ReyLight Ti LAN. I’ve gotta say, it’s an interesting MCPCB but one that I hope to never see again.
The process is essentially the same as this video that person you linked also posted, and is pretty much what I followed. I used an old frying pan to remove the old emitter and reflow the new one on however
When I sliced my triple Samsung LH351D 5000K CRI90 LEDs I also was expecting the CCT to be noticeably warmer, but it appeared to remain at around 5000K. I also thought that maybe I could’ve sliced a little more, but any more seemed to be dangerous. I do like the tint overall and the extra throw the slicing gave.
I finished off the modifications of my Q8. It’s now very much one of a kind. I had previously:
- Stripped the anodisation
- Flashed it with Anduril
- Bypassed the springs
- Swapped the glass for AR
- Fitted brass screws
Changed the switch LEDs from green to warm white
And today, for the pièce de résistance, my Q8 MCPCB with 4 x 3V XHP50.2s arrived from Sofirn (a custom order which they were happy to oblige).
It’s an absolute weapon now. In my Maukka-calibrated lumen sphere it went from 6,400 lumens with the old XP-L HDs to 16,600 lumens with the XHP50.2s. That’s just over a 10,000 lumen increase! Not bad for $20
Now to wait for it to get dark so I can take it for a proper test drive.
Sandpaper 600>1000>5000
This is my first thrower, so I have no comparison, but I’m (still) impressed. Shines much better than C8 with xpl hi, due to easier led centering. See the Lexel thread on this scalping method.
I did the same swap on my S1R II a while back and I was really surprised at how nice the tint is on the 3000K 90CRI XM-L2. It’s the second-pinkest LED I’ve seen after the sw45k.
I put the same emitter in a C8+ and while the tint is still very nice, it isn’t quite as pretty as it is in the S1R II. Must be how the beam is being blended by the TIR.
After trying one of Sofirns LH351D in 5000K, I finally gave my Klarus Mi1C a LED that has less green than the 219C and makes a slightly larger spot. Wanted this for a long time and now decided for the right LED.