Nice work! I have a Olight S1 Titanium that could use a better emitter. I found one video that starts disassembly (removal of bezel) but haven’t seen anything after that. Did you follow a site or other video for removal of the pill to access the emitter?
Finally got around to doing an emitter swap on my beloved ReyLight Ti LAN. I’ve gotta say, it’s an interesting MCPCB but one that I hope to never see again.
Before: Nichia 219C 4000K
After: sliced Samsung LH351D 5000K 90CRI
Reassembled
You had a flux party and didn’t invite us?!
Hahaha… thanks for the laugh. Yeah, it was 1 AM and I was rushing a bit. I cleaned up as much as I could and then moved on with my life.
Tbh that mcpcb can be a tricky sob and needs all the flux it can get!
The process is essentially the same as this video that person you linked also posted, and is pretty much what I followed. I used an old frying pan to remove the old emitter and reflow the new one on however
When I sliced my triple Samsung LH351D 5000K CRI90 LEDs I also was expecting the CCT to be noticeably warmer, but it appeared to remain at around 5000K. I also thought that maybe I could’ve sliced a little more, but any more seemed to be dangerous. I do like the tint overall and the extra throw the slicing gave.
I finished off the modifications of my Q8. It’s now very much one of a kind. I had previously:
- Stripped the anodisation
- Flashed it with Anduril
- Bypassed the springs
- Swapped the glass for AR
- Fitted brass screws
And today, for the pièce de résistance, my Q8 MCPCB with 4 x 3V XHP50.2s arrived from Sofirn (a custom order which they were happy to oblige).
It’s an absolute weapon now. In my Maukka-calibrated lumen sphere it went from 6,400 lumens with the old XP-L HDs to 16,600 lumens with the XHP50.2s. That’s just over a 10,000 lumen increase! Not bad for $20 
Now to wait for it to get dark so I can take it for a proper test drive.
Wow 
It looks battle ready. Nice job!
@chatika Vas Paus
what method do you use to polish your lens on your L2 Mod? very nice work, how does it throw? Thank you
Sandpaper 600>1000>5000
This is my first thrower, so I have no comparison, but I’m (still) impressed. Shines much better than C8 with xpl hi, due to easier led centering.
See the Lexel thread on this scalping method.
nice work hcanning
how did you strip off the anodisation…. chemical method?
It looks clean
Thanks. I used oven cleaner (caustic soda) 
I did the same swap on my S1R II a while back and I was really surprised at how nice the tint is on the 3000K 90CRI XM-L2. It’s the second-pinkest LED I’ve seen after the sw45k.
I put the same emitter in a C8+ and while the tint is still very nice, it isn’t quite as pretty as it is in the S1R II. Must be how the beam is being blended by the TIR.
Glad to see that my vids are still useful
After trying one of Sofirns LH351D in 5000K, I finally gave my Klarus Mi1C a LED that has less green than the 219C and makes a slightly larger spot. Wanted this for a long time and now decided for the right LED.
That’s impressive! Mine doesn’t appear to have any magenta tint to the beam, but I’m very okay with that regardless as it’s not horribly green or even yellowish, just a nice, warm white light.
I filed down and fit in a 3535 MCPCB into a black S1R II a while back, using a sliced 5000k dogfart and that one is also extremely nice. Again not a rosy tint but extremely pleasant to use with this TIR.
Also took a couple comparison image of the 3000k XM-L2, Sliced 5000k LH351D, and stock 6500k XM-L2. Used the tungsten WB setting on my phone so the beams look a little cooler than IRL, but it’s still a huge noticeable improvement.
Absolutely!
If only Olight used press-fit bezels that were easy to access on their other models like the S1R II and S-Mini
The reflector in my Q8 is somehow stuck. Is there a trick to get it out? Does it have to be unscrewed?
:)
