I believe it was due to a quality issue, not getting all of the pads 3/4 and 5 soldered correctly (or consistently). This likely had to be done by hand. By installing a 0 ohm resistor, they can just install the part there (like all the others on the board) and reflow the solder paste and make the connection automatically. That’s my suspicion anyway.
This is probably a strange question, but does anyone know where I could get a few more of the large orange o-rings that come with the LT1? Or even the actual size of the original ones?
I’d like to be able to put one in the groove above the diffuser and another in the groove below it.
Great, thank you for this Bill. While the odds of getting one are probably slim, if you’re unlucky to get one you’re stuck with having to mail it back… which adds significant expense & time. I think I’ll wait for the 5.0 version!
If you have soldering iron (or reportedly an old-school pencil) you can close or open the pads on your own in a few minutes. Having the wrong pads open or closed is a mis-configuration. This runtime vs max brightness adjustment was always intended to be a user-serviceable item.
I to prefer the lower termination voltage of charging, (better for the cells) the variation between lanterns is likely due to if your using different typs of cells in different lanterns i found, and variations in the TP5100 charging chip programming.
Mine shuts down at 2.65v.
I had to use a single crappy cell to test that.
Using the 4 Sofirn cells, the darn thing shines forever!
Also mine is the Rev 5 version. I got only about 1.5a max charge using the included cable.
The power supply I used is capable of more. It’s a QC 3.0 (supposedly).
Don’t care really, it’s a wonderful lamp.
If I need faster charging the Vapecell S4+ gets thing done quickly.
Just curious what you are getting.
The charge circuit only supports basic charge currents. One of the design criteria was to be chargeable from low current sources like a small solar panel. A high current fast-charge was not pursued for various reasons, including maximizing cell lifespan with slow charging.
IIRC mine stops at 4.17 also. I tend to only charge it until I see 4.1 blinks anyway. Had it for 8 months now, maybe charged it 4 or 5 times? This time of year it doesn’t get used much, but from Oct to Mar/Apr, it got used an hour a day easy. I love candle mode in the morning.
somehow having a sunrise alarm function would be off the charts.
If it had a programmable timer, (for turning it off or on) would be a great option for those who want the LT1 to turn on at a certain time & off at a certain time every day. (especially for those living in remote locations of the North where there are 40 days of night and no sunlight.
I guess I’ll bring this up again - I recognize there might simply be no one browsing the thread with the time and skills to design a custom emitter PCB for this lantern as a mod option.
But is anybody else at least interested in alternative emitter options? Usually there’s a decent number of people eagerly looking for even higher color performance than R9050 equivalent and a slight green tint on the cool end. Should we keep a conversation simmering about this or let it go?
Too true. The alarm clock function might be hard to do (as far I understand), the timing is not really swell in these circuits over a period of time.
BUT, I would trade all the blinkies (keeping SOS and Bike for a lantern) for a sunset that could be programed as far as time and how it stepped down.
AND, it needs to be easily started. Like at any brightness, do the Sunset click, and the light winks at me to let me know all is well.
Then the light starts stepping down from that brightness according to the arranged program.
No bright flashes while getting there to blind my night vision.
For example my bedside Olight. Love the TIR, Hate the cold white color.
Two clicks from any brightness, and I get a wink. 2 (or3?) minutes later it turns off.
Need more time, 2 more clicks during the time out, and you get 9 minutes(?) before going dark.
For years my bedside light was an old Eternalight. Remember these?
It started out a full brightness - a whopping 15? Lumens.
Every few minutes it would drop one level, and give a little pulse. After a while it would turn off.
The step down let me know that it was going to go dark. And if I wanted more light, I’d better push some buttons.
I think I remember TK once mentioning that the Eternalight was the inspiration for some of her features.
I like the adjustable strobe for flashlights, nifty for freezing motion.
Too timid to reprogram it myself. I’d end up with a brick fro sure.
Still, it’s the best lantern the world has seen to date.
All the Best,
Jeff
I’ve begged them many times to offer a a 4000k and Red XP-E2’s. The red is nice for a “Camping Lantern”, to not attract bugs. I’ve even asked them to send me a board, and I’ll do it myself. Barry said he would send one months ago, but never did
:+1:
