A Fenix LD01? That driver does not have a retaining ring, right? The battery tube just screws against it?
It’s possible it can wear down the metal pcb traces (copper I think). More likely it’s just a bad contact somewhere else in the circuit.
Power goes through the threads, battery tube, tail cap, springs, etc. I would clean all those first. They can get an oxide coating that hurts the electrical flow adding resistance. If the problem really seems to be wear related on the driver traces you’d need to add a thin layer of solder on top. Some people will add a small blob of solder on 3 points and then file/sand them down so they are the same height and the battery tube presses down evenly.
I’ve not yet done it. I see photos & videos where it’s very small wires in tightly confined space. Desoldering? Sure. But soldering the wires back on? I’m assuming you need tweezers & clamps carefully applied to help keep the wires in place as solder is applied. Maybe I’m just paranoid & should dive into it. Try out on cheap lights first. Anyway, I thought it was worth exploring alternatives.
You need a decently powerful iron because a lot of the mcpcbs are really good at soaking up heat plus that heat can transfer to the head. You need narrow long tweezers or some small tool that fits in there. I use a dental scraper. As you heat the soldered connections the wire might pop up or you might have move it to the side. Same for resoldering. You’ll need to hold the wire in place while you attach a blob of solder to the iron and reach in to attach it.
Once I remove the star I clean the old solder off, apply flux and put new leaded solder in it’s place. The stock solder can be unknown and might be poor quality. I put the good stuff on it. Once back in the light I use alcohol on a q tip to clean the excess flux and make it look nice.
Maybe someone can explain this to me, as I seem to be too dense to comprehend it.
Why is it that if I were to go to Amazon and buy X (coffee-grinder, bluetoof earmuffs, sock-hangers, anything), within a week I’d get inundated with emails from them that I “might be interested” in another X (coffee-grinder, bluetoof earmuffs, sock-hangers, etc.), as if one just ain’t enough?
What are the differences in drivers used in todays hi powered lights. I see FET, buck, boost, I don’t know what any of them mean, and why sometimes one is used over another. Help?
Some, related, things are useful. Like, buy bbq tongs and get recs for cookbooks about outdoor grillin’ recipes or something. But not 13 ads for more tongs.
I have One Emisar light. The K1 SBT90.2. Great light.
Question: How come no where on the light OR the box is Emisar inscribed? Never had a light where the manufacturer left that info. off of their product.
If you can see the Internet.
the Internet can see you.
Someone is always willing to pay for every click and every mouse hover.
I wonder if someday some mogul will say:
You know, I’m not sure paying to collect all this data is really doing us any good.
Lets drop the whole thing.
I’ve got an SP70 with the 70.2 LED. I really like it.
It’s big and heavy and clunky.
If I was going on and extended S&R type of thing (which I never will I suspect).
It’s the one I would grab.
PWM is so fast you will never see it. Like 19K if I remember.
Being able to turn the light off with the side switch is a big plus over, say, the L6.
The only thing I don’t like is the position of the front strap attachment.
It’s right in front of the switch. The clip folds back and blocks the switch.
Also it makes the light front heavy. So carrying by the strap, slowly the light dips toward the ground.
Move the front connection point closer to the font fixes this.
Wish is was available in a warmer color. Warm works better for me outside.
The first batches used a CW, maybe 6000-6500K, but now they offer it in 4700-5300K. Nice for new buyers, but those that already have it would have to swap it out.
Thanks for sharing your experience with the SP70, Jeff. I decided I’m going to wait on getting one. The only use I’d have of it is on a few occasions during the summer. My other lights handle everything else just fine during the rest of the year. It is good to see a solid neutral white emitter now provided. I may try to pick up one on discount at the end of the year.
Thanks. no I’m not new to google… I did try googling information but still couldn’t find anything that helped me understand the concept. I appreciate the information. Just figured I could get more direct info from the good people on blf.
