You need a decently powerful iron because a lot of the mcpcbs are really good at soaking up heat plus that heat can transfer to the head. You need narrow long tweezers or some small tool that fits in there. I use a dental scraper. As you heat the soldered connections the wire might pop up or you might have move it to the side. Same for resoldering. Youāll need to hold the wire in place while you attach a blob of solder to the iron and reach in to attach it.
Once I remove the star I clean the old solder off, apply flux and put new leaded solder in itās place. The stock solder can be unknown and might be poor quality. I put the good stuff on it. Once back in the light I use alcohol on a q tip to clean the excess flux and make it look nice.
Maybe someone can explain this to me, as I seem to be too dense to comprehend it.
Why is it that if I were to go to Amazon and buy X (coffee-grinder, bluetoof earmuffs, sock-hangers, anything), within a week Iād get inundated with emails from them that I āmight be interestedā in another X (coffee-grinder, bluetoof earmuffs, sock-hangers, etc.), as if one just aināt enough?
What are the differences in drivers used in todays hi powered lights. I see FET, buck, boost, I donāt know what any of them mean, and why sometimes one is used over another. Help?
Some, related, things are useful. Like, buy bbq tongs and get recs for cookbooks about outdoor grillinā recipes or something. But not 13 ads for more tongs.
I have One Emisar light. The K1 SBT90.2. Great light.
Question: How come no where on the light OR the box is Emisar inscribed? Never had a light where the manufacturer left that info. off of their product.
If you can see the Internet.
the Internet can see you.
Someone is always willing to pay for every click and every mouse hover.
I wonder if someday some mogul will say:
You know, Iām not sure paying to collect all this data is really doing us any good.
Lets drop the whole thing.
Iāve got an SP70 with the 70.2 LED. I really like it.
Itās big and heavy and clunky.
If I was going on and extended S&R type of thing (which I never will I suspect).
Itās the one I would grab.
PWM is so fast you will never see it. Like 19K if I remember.
Being able to turn the light off with the side switch is a big plus over, say, the L6.
The only thing I donāt like is the position of the front strap attachment.
Itās right in front of the switch. The clip folds back and blocks the switch.
Also it makes the light front heavy. So carrying by the strap, slowly the light dips toward the ground.
Move the front connection point closer to the font fixes this.
Wish is was available in a warmer color. Warm works better for me outside.
The first batches used a CW, maybe 6000-6500K, but now they offer it in 4700-5300K. Nice for new buyers, but those that already have it would have to swap it out.
Thanks for sharing your experience with the SP70, Jeff. I decided Iām going to wait on getting one. The only use Iād have of it is on a few occasions during the summer. My other lights handle everything else just fine during the rest of the year. It is good to see a solid neutral white emitter now provided. I may try to pick up one on discount at the end of the year.
Thanks. no Iām not new to googleā¦ I did try googling information but still couldnāt find anything that helped me understand the concept. I appreciate the information. Just figured I could get more direct info from the good people on blf.
The Jetbeam-II also has its driver glued but thereās a very thin brass washer. If rubbed-off copper is actually the problem, Iād see if I can find such a washer or a sheet of brass foil to make one.
