Maybe someone can explain this to me, as I seem to be too dense to comprehend it.
Why is it that if I were to go to Amazon and buy X (coffee-grinder, bluetoof earmuffs, sock-hangers, anything), within a week I’d get inundated with emails from them that I “might be interested” in another X (coffee-grinder, bluetoof earmuffs, sock-hangers, etc.), as if one just ain’t enough?
What are the differences in drivers used in todays hi powered lights. I see FET, buck, boost, I don’t know what any of them mean, and why sometimes one is used over another. Help?
Some, related, things are useful. Like, buy bbq tongs and get recs for cookbooks about outdoor grillin’ recipes or something. But not 13 ads for more tongs.
I have One Emisar light. The K1 SBT90.2. Great light.
Question: How come no where on the light OR the box is Emisar inscribed? Never had a light where the manufacturer left that info. off of their product.
If you can see the Internet.
the Internet can see you.
Someone is always willing to pay for every click and every mouse hover.
I wonder if someday some mogul will say:
You know, I’m not sure paying to collect all this data is really doing us any good.
Lets drop the whole thing.
I’ve got an SP70 with the 70.2 LED. I really like it.
It’s big and heavy and clunky.
If I was going on and extended S&R type of thing (which I never will I suspect).
It’s the one I would grab.
PWM is so fast you will never see it. Like 19K if I remember.
Being able to turn the light off with the side switch is a big plus over, say, the L6.
The only thing I don’t like is the position of the front strap attachment.
It’s right in front of the switch. The clip folds back and blocks the switch.
Also it makes the light front heavy. So carrying by the strap, slowly the light dips toward the ground.
Move the front connection point closer to the font fixes this.
Wish is was available in a warmer color. Warm works better for me outside.
The first batches used a CW, maybe 6000-6500K, but now they offer it in 4700-5300K. Nice for new buyers, but those that already have it would have to swap it out.
Thanks for sharing your experience with the SP70, Jeff. I decided I’m going to wait on getting one. The only use I’d have of it is on a few occasions during the summer. My other lights handle everything else just fine during the rest of the year. It is good to see a solid neutral white emitter now provided. I may try to pick up one on discount at the end of the year.
Thanks. no I’m not new to google… I did try googling information but still couldn’t find anything that helped me understand the concept. I appreciate the information. Just figured I could get more direct info from the good people on blf.
The Jetbeam-II also has its driver glued but there’s a very thin brass washer. If rubbed-off copper is actually the problem, I’d see if I can find such a washer or a sheet of brass foil to make one.
There is a whole complicated situation when it comes to Chinese manufacturers of flashlights. This is why you see clones and more than one version of the same light. Hank has his company and he decided to use two brand names to distinguish two different lines of lights. Emisar and Noctigon. He did the Noctigon Meteor several years ago (2016 I think), but all his lights since then were the Emisar brand. So folks tend to associate all his lights as Emisar and he just recently decided to release the K1 under the Noctigon brand. People know it’s from the “guy that does the Emisars” and it has the same user interface as the Emisars so you can see how people might confuse it with an Emisar.