Interesting. Maybe the threading in the tube is not far enough?
My tube is 53.6 mm in length, the thread goes all the way down to the tapering (9.45 mm).
glad you are able to fit protected 18350 in your 2019 RRT-01, and that the gap is the same either way…
sounds like different copies of the 2019 RRT-01 have different size gaps with protected 18350…
it also sounds like the batteries themselves vary in length, as my 34.7mm vs your 35.2mm unprotected 18350 measurements are clearly different.
In any case, I think we all agree that the 2019 RRT-01 does work with Protected 18350, and does not expose the O ring, even though it does show the brass…
enjoy your lights!
I asked Jetbeam about the hole in the control ring and they said this: “The control ring hole is for put grease into it. It’s not for tritium vial.” Can anyone explain what that means? They don’t need a hole on any other version of the light for the grease. Will this compromise waterproofing, or was that part of the design always on the outside of the waterproof barrier? Will this make it easier to regrease the ring down the road without diassembly?
The control ring has always been open to the elements. Over time they do get dry or gritty and needs cleaned and refreshed.
Grease tends to shed water so it helps a little being water resistant…
there is an O ring that seals the center of the control ring assembly, so even though water could get between the control ring contact faces (where the ball bearing rides), the water cannot get inside the pill.
here are some examples of the O ring seal on various models of magnetic rotaries
red O rings
black O ring on V10r Ti, which is similar to the 2019 and 2020 RRT-01 configuration (ignore the arrows, they are part of a past discussion of where to put grease)
plus locktite that seals the threads. (this is a V10r, also similar assembly as the 2019 and 2020 RRT-01
Nice spinning!
Do I need to email Neal about this or something? Looking at his website I can’t find just the extension tubes listed. I have 3 2019 light’s i’d love 18650 extension tubes for!
Well it works just fine but looks a bit odd to me……
Received from Neal 2020 rrt01. The extension tubes came as part of the stock packaging so i think mainly available with the light??
Also pleasantly surprised by grey anodized. If i were a rocket scientist i could post a darn picture or two.
Also was sent xpl instead of nichia which made the decision whether to emitter swap for me.
Bezel opens to reveal mcpcb ready to extract and swap emitter. That sounds easier that opening older ones? I’m no expert though so don’t exactly know what I’m yakking about…ha ha, my phone put that word in for me… yakking
so sad, I'm trying... to do what shouldn't be too hard...
Posting a dang picture that is
I never did get it to work either. Signed up for free Imgur and been uploading pics there for a few years.
It gives you a link to post your hosted pic.
I see your link now. Just click the insert pic icon in blf and place your link there and set relative width to about 70%.
It’s probably worth contacting Neal. Extension tubes are included with the JETBeam RRT01 Raptor on his website.
He’s charging $5 more if you want an RRT01 without extension tubes. He might end up with some spares but people probably won’t pay more for less…
Tim.
If someone owns 2019 and 2020 versions: It would be very nice to verify that the new battery tube fits the old head. I presume it does since the extensions can connect both parts, but someone here said it won’t work. I intend to ask Jetbeam for a seperate 2020 tube to replace the old one, which has a thickness of only about 0.5 mm. Not interested in the new head. Also, does this combination, if it works, finally take protected 18350 cells?
I opened the 2019 head exactly this way and did an emitter swap. No need to open the head. SWM V11R needed this, but not the Jetbeam. Space is limited to unsolder the MCPCB though, but it works.
I just tested the 2019 head on the 2020 body.
- It fits with no issues.
- It should take a protected cell. The new tube is longer and the cell it comes with is an 1100 mAh 18350 with protection circuit and charging board with USB circuit on top. This longer cell fits fine and I suspect any 18350 should fit.
- I’m not sure this will fix any durability issues though. I don’t have a caliper to verify, but the thin portions of the 2020 lube look very similar to the 2019 tube.
Looks like it’s time for me to try to order some replacement drivers from Jetbeam. Opened up my modded TCR-01 triple today to take a look inside at the emitters. Driver wires torqued when I unscrewed the bezel and then shorted.
I was careful to only grip the portion of the head above the ring when unscrewing the bezel. But unfortunately the optic was stuck in the bezel and when I unscrewed the bezel it turned the optic which caused the star to turn. Oops! I had a cell installed at the time too. I disassembled the driver sandwich to install new wires, but a couple components broke along with trace where one of the driver wires connects. This driver has had it.
Thanks a lot! That was my main point. Bad news, but that saves me some money.
the 2019 already works with protected 18350
from what Im reading here, the 2020 is the same.
Jetbeam told me the 2020 extensions are not compatible with the 2019, but that info was not correct.
This is a 2019 head and body w 2020 extensions:
So anyone that wants to use 18650 w the 2019 model, just needs to buy the two extensions for the 2020 version. To be clear, there is NO 18650 tube, just extensions that can be added to the 18350 tubes.
I asked batteryjunction if they would sell just the extensions, they said No!
If somebody wants to buy just the extensions, I suggest you ask Jetbeam if they will sell them to you separately. Let us know what you learn…
Thanks, yes, I understand the threads are not anodized, so no contact problem. I meant taking the cell without showing this ugly gap ;-).
I made good experience with Jetbeam selling parts. Currently, shipping costs a small fortune (in my case it was $15) though.
I agree it is ugly.
possible solutions:
1. I read somewhere that a shorter spring allows for the use of protected 18350, without an ugly gap. Reasearch needed to locate an additional spring. I do not recommend cutting the stock spring.
2. I wonder if something could be made, to fill the gap…
sometimes I ask myself:
what would CRX do? 
(my guess is he would fabricate a narrow copper ring to fill the gap)
.
you had hopes the 2020 body would be thicker than the 0.5mm at the edge of the 2019 body
I can understand that it looks a bit thin.
I also dont like how large the 2019/2020 body is, in diameter.
maybe it will help to know this:
my original RRT-01 also has the same 0.5mm metal thickness, at the edge past the female threads… But it does not look too thin to me, maybe because it is a smaller diameter…
.
despite those, and other considerations about RRT-01 design…
this is a very good time for someone interested in buying a magnetic rotary
no light is perfect, but for me, the Original RRT-01 is as close as I have come to getting every feature I want in a light.
I hope you find and LED mod, lights that make you smile as much as I do when I pick up one of mine
Thanks, Jon, that was helpful. Hunting for the perfect light is part of the game 
.
Yes, my LED mods make me really happy. I think I made a lot of lights better.
Just received my 2020 RRT01 today and haven’t been this disappointed from a light… maybe ever? At least not one as hyped as these JetBeam rotaries have been.
- Not a 90 CRI 219C, probably 70 as comparison against several 4000K 90+ CRI 219Cs and LH351Ds shows. Same rendering as the XP-L HI 5D I have and still worse than the 80-85 CRI XHP35 HI in my Zebra. Greenish tint at low levels but this clears up past ~20% output or so.
- Ring must be rotated 15 degrees or so from “off” detent (there is very light detent at both “off” and “turbo” positions) before an light is emitted, and then it ramps up rapidly. This makes selecting a low output from off almost impossible.
- Last 1/4 or 1/5 of the rotation at the top of the ramp barely changes output, so combined with the rapid increase at the bottom end of the ramp it isn’t even close to visually linear.
- Even with the OP reflector the hotspot is much more yellow/greenish than the spill. Very “fried-egg” beam. Easy to remedy with DC Fix but obviously at the cost of throw (a harder pill to swallow with a light primarily made to run 18350 or smaller)
On the positive side:
- When the tailswitch is set to “on” the light tailstands perfectly. There is only wobble when it is off, a total non-issue. Don’t know if that’s only my copy or others didn’t bother to turn the light on before testing this. (That’s how most mechanical switches function guys! 
)
- No exposed brass/visible gap at all with the stock 18350. It measures 40mm on the nose.
- Output appears to easily hit 900lm+ with the stock 18350. The benefit of lower CRI bin is a noticeably higher flux bin, I don’t think JetBeam cheaped out but would guess they had communication issues when creating marketing materials and/or buyer or supplier goofed the emitter order. I bet a swap to a good bin SST-20 or LH351D would have pretty good results if the output progression was more linear with them. XP-L HI of any temp is almost sure to function well and have a clean beam like the older models.
Overall, going to wait and hear other people’s experiences as well before deciding whether to sell the light or do an emitter swap. I wonder if the “ramp” is greatly affected by emitter Vf?