Received from Neal 2020 rrt01. The extension tubes came as part of the stock packaging so i think mainly available with the light??
Also pleasantly surprised by grey anodized. If i were a rocket scientist i could post a darn picture or two.
Also was sent xpl instead of nichia which made the decision whether to emitter swap for me.
Bezel opens to reveal mcpcb ready to extract and swap emitter. That sounds easier that opening older ones? I’m no expert though so don’t exactly know what I’m yakking about…ha ha, my phone put that word in for me… yakking
so sad, I'm trying... to do what shouldn't be too hard...
Posting a dang picture that is
I never did get it to work either. Signed up for free Imgur and been uploading pics there for a few years.
It gives you a link to post your hosted pic.
I see your link now. Just click the insert pic icon in blf and place your link there and set relative width to about 70%.
It’s probably worth contacting Neal. Extension tubes are included with the JETBeam RRT01 Raptor on his website.
He’s charging $5 more if you want an RRT01 without extension tubes. He might end up with some spares but people probably won’t pay more for less…
Tim.
If someone owns 2019 and 2020 versions: It would be very nice to verify that the new battery tube fits the old head. I presume it does since the extensions can connect both parts, but someone here said it won’t work. I intend to ask Jetbeam for a seperate 2020 tube to replace the old one, which has a thickness of only about 0.5 mm. Not interested in the new head. Also, does this combination, if it works, finally take protected 18350 cells?
I opened the 2019 head exactly this way and did an emitter swap. No need to open the head. SWM V11R needed this, but not the Jetbeam. Space is limited to unsolder the MCPCB though, but it works.
I just tested the 2019 head on the 2020 body.
- It fits with no issues.
- It should take a protected cell. The new tube is longer and the cell it comes with is an 1100 mAh 18350 with protection circuit and charging board with USB circuit on top. This longer cell fits fine and I suspect any 18350 should fit.
- I’m not sure this will fix any durability issues though. I don’t have a caliper to verify, but the thin portions of the 2020 lube look very similar to the 2019 tube.
Looks like it’s time for me to try to order some replacement drivers from Jetbeam. Opened up my modded TCR-01 triple today to take a look inside at the emitters. Driver wires torqued when I unscrewed the bezel and then shorted.
I was careful to only grip the portion of the head above the ring when unscrewing the bezel. But unfortunately the optic was stuck in the bezel and when I unscrewed the bezel it turned the optic which caused the star to turn. Oops! I had a cell installed at the time too. I disassembled the driver sandwich to install new wires, but a couple components broke along with trace where one of the driver wires connects. This driver has had it.
Thanks a lot! That was my main point. Bad news, but that saves me some money.
the 2019 already works with protected 18350
from what Im reading here, the 2020 is the same.
Jetbeam told me the 2020 extensions are not compatible with the 2019, but that info was not correct.
This is a 2019 head and body w 2020 extensions:
So anyone that wants to use 18650 w the 2019 model, just needs to buy the two extensions for the 2020 version. To be clear, there is NO 18650 tube, just extensions that can be added to the 18350 tubes.
I asked batteryjunction if they would sell just the extensions, they said No!
If somebody wants to buy just the extensions, I suggest you ask Jetbeam if they will sell them to you separately. Let us know what you learn…
Thanks, yes, I understand the threads are not anodized, so no contact problem. I meant taking the cell without showing this ugly gap ;-).
I made good experience with Jetbeam selling parts. Currently, shipping costs a small fortune (in my case it was $15) though.
I agree it is ugly.
possible solutions:
1. I read somewhere that a shorter spring allows for the use of protected 18350, without an ugly gap. Reasearch needed to locate an additional spring. I do not recommend cutting the stock spring.
2. I wonder if something could be made, to fill the gap…
sometimes I ask myself:
what would CRX do? 
(my guess is he would fabricate a narrow copper ring to fill the gap)
.
you had hopes the 2020 body would be thicker than the 0.5mm at the edge of the 2019 body
I can understand that it looks a bit thin.
I also dont like how large the 2019/2020 body is, in diameter.
maybe it will help to know this:
my original RRT-01 also has the same 0.5mm metal thickness, at the edge past the female threads… But it does not look too thin to me, maybe because it is a smaller diameter…
.
despite those, and other considerations about RRT-01 design…
this is a very good time for someone interested in buying a magnetic rotary
no light is perfect, but for me, the Original RRT-01 is as close as I have come to getting every feature I want in a light.
I hope you find and LED mod, lights that make you smile as much as I do when I pick up one of mine
Thanks, Jon, that was helpful. Hunting for the perfect light is part of the game 
.
Yes, my LED mods make me really happy. I think I made a lot of lights better.
Just received my 2020 RRT01 today and haven’t been this disappointed from a light… maybe ever? At least not one as hyped as these JetBeam rotaries have been.
- Not a 90 CRI 219C, probably 70 as comparison against several 4000K 90+ CRI 219Cs and LH351Ds shows. Same rendering as the XP-L HI 5D I have and still worse than the 80-85 CRI XHP35 HI in my Zebra. Greenish tint at low levels but this clears up past ~20% output or so.
- Ring must be rotated 15 degrees or so from “off” detent (there is very light detent at both “off” and “turbo” positions) before an light is emitted, and then it ramps up rapidly. This makes selecting a low output from off almost impossible.
- Last 1/4 or 1/5 of the rotation at the top of the ramp barely changes output, so combined with the rapid increase at the bottom end of the ramp it isn’t even close to visually linear.
- Even with the OP reflector the hotspot is much more yellow/greenish than the spill. Very “fried-egg” beam. Easy to remedy with DC Fix but obviously at the cost of throw (a harder pill to swallow with a light primarily made to run 18350 or smaller)
On the positive side:
- When the tailswitch is set to “on” the light tailstands perfectly. There is only wobble when it is off, a total non-issue. Don’t know if that’s only my copy or others didn’t bother to turn the light on before testing this. (That’s how most mechanical switches function guys! 
)
- No exposed brass/visible gap at all with the stock 18350. It measures 40mm on the nose.
- Output appears to easily hit 900lm+ with the stock 18350. The benefit of lower CRI bin is a noticeably higher flux bin, I don’t think JetBeam cheaped out but would guess they had communication issues when creating marketing materials and/or buyer or supplier goofed the emitter order. I bet a swap to a good bin SST-20 or LH351D would have pretty good results if the output progression was more linear with them. XP-L HI of any temp is almost sure to function well and have a clean beam like the older models.
Overall, going to wait and hear other people’s experiences as well before deciding whether to sell the light or do an emitter swap. I wonder if the “ramp” is greatly affected by emitter Vf?
A few more impressions now that I’ve had more time with the light:
- Must very carefully put the head on 2020 RRT-01 after a battery change. I had one o-ring get chewed up and broken when it popped out of its track during a battery change. A couple other times the o-ring popped out, but I caught it before it was damaged. Fortunately, the light came with 3 extras in the box. I have not had this problem with any other lights and it appears to be unique to the 2020 RRT-01. Perhaps the o-ring slot isn’t deep enough. This problem might be fixable with a small handfile inside the o-ring slot… but this shouldn’t have been necessary on a premium light like this.
- As mentioned by BurningPlayD0h, the tint is slightly greenish. Also, the reported color temperature of around 3500K sounds about right.
- The ring turns very smoothly and has no real detente at either end. There’s enough tension to keep the ring in place, but maybe not enough that I would trust it not to turn on its own in the pocket. The light can in theory be used like a 2019 RRT-01 leaving the button in the on position and just using the ring to turn it on and off. But in reality, I don’t think I would trust this to prevent accidental activation.
- The light has no low voltage protection, so its best to use protected cells… probably the included protected IMR 18350.
- Unlike BurningPlayD0h, I have not had any issue selecting low or intermediate modes with the RRT01. Brightness at different ring settings is a smooth ramp-up. Feels very similar to the 2012 and 2019 RRT-01, or the Sunwayman V11r. If anything, I found it easier to fine-tune the brightness since the ring turns more smoothly and requires less pressure than the 2019 version.
Compared to the new RRT-03:
- The RRT-03 does not appear to have the o-ring issue. Like most lights I can remove or replace the head with no attention paid to the o-ring and no problems.
- Tint and color temperature on the RRT-03 appears much better than the RRT01. Not greenish on any mode. A bit cooler too. My guess is 4000-4500K color temp. I think the RRT-03 probably has higher CRI too.
- The RRT-03’s ring is stiffer than the RRT01 and it has firm detentes at each setting. However, unlike the RRT-01, the RRT-03 does not have the option of using only the control ring since the light is on in all ring positions.
- The aux LED modes in the RRT-03 seem most useful for partying or maybe as a warning light while walking around. These modes aren’t that useful for actually lighting things up. The aux beam bounces around behind the optic and comes out with a dim central spot surrounded by 3 brighter lobes (these lobes are quite far from the central hotspot too… maybe a 30 degree angle off-center). If you want a red light to actually illuminate something you’re better off buying a Nitecore or maybe the Acebeam keychain light.
Thanks for your first impressions
the sensitivity areas you described do not change with an LED swap.
I agree with your very clearly stated observations about how the ring behaves, very little light at first, then rapid acceleration, then slow acceleration. This is true for all versions of RRT-01… they all use the same driver.
I have gotten used to the ramping rate of my RRT-01. I like it better than the ramping on an HDS, which consumes the first 50% of the dial on 12 separate levels all below 2 lumens.
Im sorry to hear the High CRI LED is not very good.
An emitter swap to sw45k 9080 is a first priority for me, in all generations of RRT-01…
pretty much all my user lights, get a 9080 LED… My old eyes see better with High R9 CRI. Everything looks more alive with high R9 CRI, food, people, flowers…
look at the R9 bars on these two lights, they render colors very differently, but not everyone uses flashlight for color, some prioritize lumens over CRI… choices are good
pic is a link to more examples of different R9 outputs from various LED options
Did you lube the control ring, or does your feel pre-lubed? I’ve noticed part of the issue is a feeling of slight grittiness that makes it hard to make fine adjustments. When applying just enough pressure to move it there is a slight “jump” and I’ve overshot what I want, especially near the bottom of the ramp.
In direct comparison to 9050 219Cs and other high-CRI emitters I am 100% certain the one in my RRT01 is nowhere near that. Not just an issue of variation within a bin but truly not a 90CRI (or even 80 I’d wager) version of the 219C as advertised. It leaves skin, wood, cardboard looking yellowish and “dead”, vs my other 219B/C lights which have the wonderful color rendering they were long known for (+ 144A, E21A, SST-20, LH351D, etc. I also compared to).
The phosphor is a much lighter/more yellow shade than the other 219Cs I have as well which are very orange in comparison.
My RRT-01 2020 feels like it came pre-lubed.
It’s actually the smoothest turning magnetic ring flashlight I own. The ring action is smoother than in my 2012 and 2019 RRT-01, Sunwayman V10A and V11R, and my Jetbeam TCR01.
My new 2020 RRT-01’s ring has absolutely zero grittiness. I also find that I am able to make minute changes to brightness via very small ring movements with no jump. There’s no stickiness in the ring to overcome to get it moving.
FWIW
my RRT01 2019 (with 219B) is ‘somewhat’ linear after you get past the stupid strong on/off detent. There is a slight delay in the ramp on the bottom end still.
my Sunwayman V11R (with LH351D) is more linear at the low end and the upper 25% of the highest end visually appears to do almost nothing.
I suspect there are too many factors to say anything definitive though. If I was BurningPlayd0h I would re-test with a half drained battery and see what changes happen since we know it’s a boost driver.
My RRT01 2020 is in LA customs but i’ll measure CRI and report back when it arrives.
I actually already ran it on a AA Eneloop, and didn’t notice much difference in linearity. Reduced output of course but that seemed proportional across the range of output.
I do like the new RRT-01 and 03. They’re cool lights with a nice interface.
Even though it feels a little odd carrying one around since an FW3A with 18650 installed is the same size as the 18350 Jetbeam, while being much more powerful with much longer battery life.
My 2020 rrt01 has wobbly tail stand regardless if on or off. It looks designed to be flush clicked in but mine missed by about 1/2 mm. It’s a definitely wobbly tail stand.