Noticed this after just 30 seconds on turbo (not more than 2-3 seconds at once with longer pauses in-between; only quickly for the beamshots) with the KR1 W2:
I hope Hank offers me a replacement head. This should not happen with a premium flashlight
Anyone who has a KR4 with 18350 tube—the standard pocket clip obviously does not work but can the lanyard ring still be installed with 18350 tube? It looks like the 18350 tube provides no space “in between” but it’s hard to tell.
Dang, that sucks. I've had mine (W2 also) on turbo for probably a total of 2 or 3 minutes with 30-40 seconds at a time maximum and no such issue. So far, I love this light!
Hope Hank makes it right for you. Maybe it's a defective LED?
Didn't like the fact I couldn't use the lanyard ring and clip at the same time so I fixed it. I always (for the last few years) put a finger loop lanyard, first made of paracord or some other small cordage. Then CountyComm came out with their titanium beaded chain a couple years ago and it's all I've used on all my EDC lights since.
Always use a good cutting fluid and this stuff is the best (been using it for almost 20 years).
How does the driver work on the KR1 with different emitter configurations, same driver just different programing? W1 limited to 5A, W2 to 7A and full FET for XPL HI and SST40?
Lol, wanted to have a closer look at the “spotted” LED in my KR1. There is one of these transparent o-rings between the head and the bezel. Yeah, these crappy ones that break easily. Mine got stretched pretty badly and it wasn’t easy to screw the bezel back on. Probably not water resistant anymore. Maybe it’s time to order a bigger set of o-rings…
There were some splatters of flux all over the MCPCB. And I found some tiny solder balls. Quality control could be better.
Btw, Hank offered me a replacement MCPCB. I think I can live with that and for Hank it should be more cost efficient than everything else.
I have read on another thread that Hank offered to custom-build a D4v2 with Luminus SST-20-DR (deep red, 660nm). I would be highly interested into something like that in a KR4 but I wonder how four of these LEDs will cope with any of Hank's drivers. I would prefer hardware-based current control instead of a custom-coded Andúril version.
Hank built this flashlight for me a couple of weeks ago and I actually have it. It works well and it is fun to play with. It doesn’t even use a custom version of Anduril (AFAIK). SST-20-DR are rated to be driven at up to 3A, same as white SST-20. Obviously they will be overdriven in a D4V2, but it seems that they can handle it. I use 100% turbo a lot and it has not killed the LEDs yet.
I wouldn’t worry about it; if you want a custom KR4 with these emitters, just order one, it will work just fine.