Lumintop FW21 Pro (10,000 lumen) vs Nightwatch NSX3 (9,900 lumen)

This is incorrect. Those are fake rating and usually top out at 15 amps or so

Well damn, I guess it Samsung 40T time

40T is the best battery if u want decent runtimes and plenty of amps to run this kind of lights.

Ok I just tested my fully charged 40T against one of my Molicell P42a in my FW21 Pro (turbo of course).
My homemade lux meter box results (highest @ turn on using):
P42a: ~16,600 lux
40T: ~13,800 lux
(Note that these results are relative to me only)
I am not able to detect a visual difference in regular usage (dark room or outside), but the difference is measurable with a meter.

I’ve decided to reserve my Molicells for my FW21 Pro and use the 40Ts when I get my E07.

In my research, I prefer the Molicel INR-21700-P42A, which is pretty similar to the 40T.

I haven't bought any 21700 cells yet, however.

Thanks man! I grabbed a 30t and a 42a, I reckon I’m covered. Now to wait and see who arrives first!

Incorrect in the rated mah and amps? Or incorrect in saying that they would work?

Because, They would technically work, but depending on the quality of the cells, you just won’t be using the full potential of the flashlight. And the voltage would sag more and maybe trip the LVC and step down sooner.
Also, I am able to use super old 18650s from old laptop batteries just fine in a FW21 Pro, I just can’t use Turbo mode at all, because it instantly trips LVC.

It’s my understanding that the drivers in these flashlights don’t “force” X amount of amps regardless of battery, they “ask” and then the battery gives what it can provide (depending on internal resistance, the lower the better).

In any case IMR/INR cells are better with the 30T for “max amps/output regardless of runtime”, P42a and 40T for “all around Amperage/Output and Runtime” (with the Molicell slightly better in my testing).

ICR cells will work (samsung 50E), but voltage will sag a lot and won’t provide maximum ouput like IMR/INR batteries can, but they will last much longer in all modes besides turbo.

Considering my personal experience I would first go for Molicel P42a, if those aren’t available, then Samsung 40T. I don’t really see the point of the 30T as it has much lower capacity with only marginally better output only when fully charged.

Go check Mooch’s and HKJ’s battery reviews, They are well respected by flashlight/vape enthusiasts and agrees that 30T is for “max output” and the Molicell P42a is slightly better than the 40T.

I’m saying sofirn and ijoy cells have a 40A manufacturer’s discharge rating but when tested are only good for 15 or so amp discharging. It’s outright fraud.

The P42A is the best high discharge+capacity 21700, with the 30T being the absolute high drain cell with the trade off being capacity.

40T would be an alternative for the P42A if they’re not available or too expensive.

I appreciate you guys taking time out for me to make the safest/best choice

This is a great choice. I usually carry bring 1 or 2 extra 30Ts on me depending on how long I expect to be walking and do a battery change midway through.

Before my 30Ts arrived, I had been using VTC6s and they became unreasonably hot when I used turbo in my NS53. The 30Ts look brighter and make the light heat up faster but the cells themselves don’t get as hot.

yes that cell works also, it depends what u can find in local stores or online, for absolute most power the molicell is hard to beat. but i prefer the 40t though.

30T is actually the most powerful 21700, will measure brighter than the P42A but only down side is 3000mah. I use it for taking max measurements.

FYI resetting it back to Turbo is bad. You’ll end up like that guy on reddit that melted his LEDs.

Toykeeper mentioned that Andruil’s thermal management isn’t meant for tiny hotrods like the FW21pro.
It takes about 6-7 secs before it takes action from a temp reading, during which you can fry the LEDs.

Not to mention it gets hot enough to burn your hands…

How about the NightwatchNSX3

Probably less so since it physically has more thermal mass.

You probably could still fry it since I think it also uses Anduril and same or older firmware.

These small hotrods aren’t meant for sustained Turbo of any kind, thermal stepdown is for the flashlights protection, Toykeeper just programmed it to be “easily defeatable”

I really do like that Nightwatch though…

After the third turbo start, the FW21 Pro was so hot that I could hardly hold it in my hand.

Lol! I feel that!
When I was messing with the thermal settings and found that resetting it back to Turbo makes even the MOST aggressive settings moot, I almost dropped it because it was so stinkin HOT!

It making the body so hot let me know that they did a good job with thermal transfer at least….just needs more mass and better/more cooling fins…

Be careful out there

yes please dont do that ever again

I’m not sure if it can hold that for 10 minutes but I’ve had my Zebralight SC700D hold 3000lm for 5 minutes, (at least I never noticed any step down) however it was quite toasty!