Lol, wanted to have a closer look at the “spotted” LED in my KR1. There is one of these transparent o-rings between the head and the bezel. Yeah, these crappy ones that break easily. Mine got stretched pretty badly and it wasn’t easy to screw the bezel back on. Probably not water resistant anymore. Maybe it’s time to order a bigger set of o-rings…
There were some splatters of flux all over the MCPCB. And I found some tiny solder balls. Quality control could be better.
Btw, Hank offered me a replacement MCPCB. I think I can live with that and for Hank it should be more cost efficient than everything else.
I have read on another thread that Hank offered to custom-build a D4v2 with Luminus SST-20-DR (deep red, 660nm). I would be highly interested into something like that in a KR4 but I wonder how four of these LEDs will cope with any of Hank's drivers. I would prefer hardware-based current control instead of a custom-coded Andúril version.
Hank built this flashlight for me a couple of weeks ago and I actually have it. It works well and it is fun to play with. It doesn’t even use a custom version of Anduril (AFAIK). SST-20-DR are rated to be driven at up to 3A, same as white SST-20. Obviously they will be overdriven in a D4V2, but it seems that they can handle it. I use 100% turbo a lot and it has not killed the LEDs yet.
I wouldn’t worry about it; if you want a custom KR4 with these emitters, just order one, it will work just fine.
I don’t think that is the correct interpretation, his post does not mention D4V2 at all. I think he is saying that he previously built a KR4 with SST-20-DR, and that it is possible to disable direct drive on KR4 driver, but he is not saying that it is needed for this LED.
My D4V2 does not have the KR4 driver.
Hank would have told me if he needed to use a different driver, so that I would know which firmware I needed to flash when updating.
My flashlight blinks during ramping at the transition from 1x7135 to 1x7135 + FET, and button LEDs become brighter, exactly like my other D4V2s.