agree!
caveat, the tradeoff for enjoying a larger hotspot, is larger battery drain
assume the center of each beam is at the same brightness:
However if that pic was comparing the same emitter in the same model of light, it means the one on the right would be a larger - and therefore very likely more efficient emitter - too.
For example, between my SC64 LE and H600c, the 600c matches the LE in throw at every submode but has a significantly wider hotspot and brighter spill. AFAIK the current draw at each submode is very similar between all current gen Zebras (based on comparing runtimes for different models).
Can anyone w stock nichia single and/ or triple post a couple beam shots? Preferably versus something nice. Would like to see what could’ve been…. and doesn’t rrt03 have secondaries? Any unbiased pics? (Not from the company’s marketing dept)
IYP07 on left, RRT01 on right. Both stock emitters - 219C 4000K 9050 vs 7000? Set to mid mode which is ~40lm on the 07 IIRC, and tried to match it with the RRT01. Wall in the second pic is stark white.
wider beam angle, lower Lux
(wide looks dimmer than narrow)
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the test contactcr did of the 219c 4000k shows
RaR9 of 70(–27)… the (R9) is negative,
the duv of 0.0040 is greener than sunlight, whose duv is 0.0032
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he has modded it to LH351d 5000k 9050, dedomed made it 4500k and duv dropped pretty much exactly onto the incandescent BBL.
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congrats!
great to hear the 2020 has a good beam and a nice LED now
wondering if the thickness of the centering ring might be the secret to a good beam
new question
Are the primary LEDs in the RRT-03, the same low CRI 4000k 219C as in the 2020 RRT-01?
Yeah the R9 is clearly lacking but threw that white wall shot in to show that it’s also going greenish on lower levels. It does clear up a bit with higher output but like contactcr said, the hotspot itself it still more yellow/greenish.
If you can reflow ill send you a shaved LH351D to put in it.
I really appreciate the offer :laughing: but I’m probably planning to sell it since the UI just wasn’t for me and don’t want to mod it before that (I’ve killed cheap lights by being clumsy and am leary of selling only passable mods to someone else). Also to fund another rotary purchase I was finally convinced to take the jump on…
Uh oh… if you haven’t been talked out of it make sure you get hi cri option if your jumping in that deep. Then tell me how much you like (cause i don’t have) Taking loose survey. But we never know, til we know… do we?
Contactor- why do you like the Samsung (lh351d) over the nichia b? If i had a second one ready I’d be asking for it.
Bpd, thanks for the pics, I’m not talking trash, just being a smart ass for the reformed…
That penlight (is that what it is? Looks nice snd rosy next to that aberration nichia. Some of my favs are 219c. When they’re good, they’re great huh?
Oh I did haha, that run getting low before they switched to 5000K helped make my decision.
Personally the biggest benefit of LH351D/C (and good bins of SST-20) is just being able to safely use them in basically any light, with any driver and having an easy supply. Efficiency isn’t really that much better when sliced and/or used with the minus green filter but there can be some advantage there.
Haha! Thanks. I want a full report, cause I’m gonna miss out unless later on secondhand market! And having extra slash will help!
I ended up putting my 2019 w/ 219B sw45k in the WTS section if anyone’s interested. After playing around with the new one I prefer having a forward switch despite the added weight/length.
+1 on the switch. Nice instance where fwd switch desirable/ useful
Why you like the Samsung over the 219b in your 2020?
I like them both. The 219b has a cult following but for me as long as it’s above 90 CRI or better and not a terrible tint I like to have a variety.
That makes sense. I love my 219bs but my most used light is a 219c triple in a pflexpro these days.
(I need the output for daytime use at our shop.) To admire red sht, ya i love the high r9s.
One of my fav lights is a 2aa maglight with an xml (i think) in it. Not to rosy, but decisively rosy! But on my arm looks horrible (low r9?)
Im sure you said already but what cct are your preferred lh351s? Where can they be aquired piecemeal (in ones or twos type quantities)?
Thx for the back and forth, very good “light” conversation for after work!
3500K or 5000K if I’m going to leave the dome on.
5000K shaved looks great. Pretty much any CCT will go down about 500K after you slice it.
Buy from DigiKey, Arrow, Sofirn website, AEDe on this forum used to have some.
My 2020 version arrived today and I’m not happy. The control ring on my sample feels loose and there’s no decent on either end, and I have to turn quite a bit from all the way left to get any light at all. This is not typical for those who already have one right? Either way I’m retuning this one.
The detent is very minimal and like BurningPlayd0h mentioned there is a lot of dead space at the beginning of the dial especially. Sounds typical based on my sample.
I personally like the smooth/low resistance (your words loose) dial paired with the switch but I can see why some wouldn’t. jon_slider is the grease scientist and could tell you what to use to dial it in. The rest of your issues you are out of luck on.
There is a big chunk of the beginning of the range that does nothing. When it first comes on, it is at a very low level, but can then be ramped back from there, but it will go off again while still a long way from the end. There is also a chunk at the end that doesn’t increase the brightness much.
BUT, there is a significant chunk of the range that is great ramping with plenty of space to dial it in where you want it. If this was spread over the whole ring turning range, it would just mean you’d have to move your fingers further to dial it to where you want.