Sofirn SP10 Pro (AA/14500/Andúril 2) - now available!

Wow,more than 1 year passed from the start of project.
They can do now a version with Eco mode memory for AA batt.?
Hope to get Anduril later

I made the design for this one based on the original driver replacing MCU and gave it to Sofirn to double check if the sort of reverse engeneered+scematic one matches the original
It seems there is slow progress confirming it and getting a prototype made

Were you able to put flashing pads on it?

yes and I should have posted a pic

I’m interested! Please put me on the list if there is one for this project.

If adding AA compatibility ALSO raises the price significantly… hell with AAs! Lets get some 14500 models built and out there today!

I mean… we ALL use li-on in all our OTHER lights and the 14500 is SUCH an improvement in output (why the public buys lights more than any other reason) over the AA. But I get the Catch 22… the “public” often wants to use Alkaleaks. BUT, the “public” will NEVER take the time to learn Anduril and a lot of reviews I’ve read (especially on Amazon) are flush with statements like, “I pushed the button twice and it went out of control- not for me so I sent it back. Thanks Amazon for the free (to me, but not the manufacturer) return shipping.”

Other way to see it is this in not an el-cheapo’ AA light (in any case). So aside from gifting to muggles and selling them on Amazon- both NOT into Anduril… the question is: do we get an Anduril SP10 any time soon? (how old is this thread?) :exclamation:

Okay, if you want to sell a light to The Muggle that takes AA-format cells (1.xV or 3.xV), you need to dumb it down somewhat to prevent those nice free Amazon returns. Howbow…

1C on/off

1H moonlight (from off), increment brightness (from on)

2C turbo (vs sustainable high)

3C nothing (ie, anything beyond 2C requires minor determination to get there)

4C lockout

5C momentary.

Unscrew/Rescrew to “reset” from any any any any any mode.

On powerup (including unscrew/rescrew), blink out battery voltage (X.Y volts normally, or 1-4 blinks for the developmentally-disabled).

Ie, no (other) blinkies.

Unless someone buys 10 of ‘em to stick on his kid’s b’day cake, who really needs candle-mode in an AA-format light? Or lightning mode, or even plain ol’ irritating strobe?

People don’t want ¼” drills. They want ¼” holes. Weirdos like us might want to be able to control-alt-tripleclick to get to cuttlefish mode, but the typical DD flashlight buyer would stumble upon that mode and sent it back just for spite. They’re used to their simple Mags and Dorcys and whatnot, and tossing ’em the keys to a 747 is just asking for trouble.

:+1: :+1: :+1: Yup! - and I’ll take a 737 TODAY :beer:

Getter’done!

Sorry, people – if it doesn’t work well on AA NiMH, I’m out.

I’m legally blind, and the way I avoid confusion between cells with different nominal voltages is to decree one voltage per size. That way, I can’t fry anything that uses 1.2V / 1.5V cells by putting 3.7V Li-Ions in it by mistake.

There’s so much stuff that uses AA or AAA that those have to be the choice in that size. There will never be Li-Ion 10440 or 14500 cells in my stuff.

(When I’m using Li-Ion, it’s always 18650 or 26650.)

Nice. Looks like the pad layout is different than the key that I bought for my Emisar lights. Is this layout available to purchase anywhere? Or is there a way I can easily adapt it?

Also, for whatever it’s worth, I tested the voltage of my kids SP10S when the Ladda AA in it stopped working, and it was at .897. So thereabouts is when the boost driver stops working.

I think that’s the same story for a lot of folk here, me included.

Isn’t there some trauma concerning the µCs that Andy won’t run on low-voltage ones?

As far as I understand it, if with the modification Lexel has proposed, the driver proves to be capable of running Anduril, the worry about needing extra time or money to make it 1.5V and 3.7V compatible is moot.

If the desire is to get an Anduril 14500 light as soon as possible, I think that can be accomplished already using a Texas Avenger design (I don’t know if Texas Ace sells them assembled, but Lexel has a variant) if you have a host that accepts a 15mm driver and are comfortable doing a driver swap.

To my recollection, Anduril is designed for the ATTiny microcontrollers, which require a higher voltage to run. The last discussion I saw was that the microcontroller would have to receive boosted voltage from AA/NiMH just to turn on, and then it could do its thing. Implementation of that (or another) solution is over my head

Interested.

Lexel has two coils on his board. It appears one drives the logic circuitry while the other drives the power LED. The coil that drives the logic circuitry can boost independently of the LED coil. Because the logic circuitry requires so much less current to run vs. the primary LED, the microcontroller will have power right up until the very end of the battery life. The primary LED may not be able to run, but the brains of the operation will get the juice it requires.

Count me in. Thanks

I suggest smooth diamond or square knurling for the body instead of currently rought,will be more nice to hold and simple ramping version similar sp36s

I guess it is now a matter of honour and glory to get Andúril in that thing.

Interested. I want that candle mode.

I would be interested in this.