Bpd, thanks for the pics, I’m not talking trash, just being a smart ass for the reformed…
That penlight (is that what it is? Looks nice snd rosy next to that aberration nichia. Some of my favs are 219c. When they’re good, they’re great huh?
Oh I did haha, that run getting low before they switched to 5000K helped make my decision.
Personally the biggest benefit of LH351D/C (and good bins of SST-20) is just being able to safely use them in basically any light, with any driver and having an easy supply. Efficiency isn’t really that much better when sliced and/or used with the minus green filter but there can be some advantage there.
Haha! Thanks. I want a full report, cause I’m gonna miss out unless later on secondhand market! And having extra slash will help!
I ended up putting my 2019 w/ 219B sw45k in the WTS section if anyone’s interested. After playing around with the new one I prefer having a forward switch despite the added weight/length.
+1 on the switch. Nice instance where fwd switch desirable/ useful
Why you like the Samsung over the 219b in your 2020?
I like them both. The 219b has a cult following but for me as long as it’s above 90 CRI or better and not a terrible tint I like to have a variety.
That makes sense. I love my 219bs but my most used light is a 219c triple in a pflexpro these days.
(I need the output for daytime use at our shop.) To admire red sht, ya i love the high r9s.
One of my fav lights is a 2aa maglight with an xml (i think) in it. Not to rosy, but decisively rosy! But on my arm looks horrible (low r9?)
Im sure you said already but what cct are your preferred lh351s? Where can they be aquired piecemeal (in ones or twos type quantities)?
Thx for the back and forth, very good “light” conversation for after work!
3500K or 5000K if I’m going to leave the dome on.
5000K shaved looks great. Pretty much any CCT will go down about 500K after you slice it.
Buy from DigiKey, Arrow, Sofirn website, AEDe on this forum used to have some.
My 2020 version arrived today and I’m not happy. The control ring on my sample feels loose and there’s no decent on either end, and I have to turn quite a bit from all the way left to get any light at all. This is not typical for those who already have one right? Either way I’m retuning this one.
The detent is very minimal and like BurningPlayd0h mentioned there is a lot of dead space at the beginning of the dial especially. Sounds typical based on my sample.
I personally like the smooth/low resistance (your words loose) dial paired with the switch but I can see why some wouldn’t. jon_slider is the grease scientist and could tell you what to use to dial it in. The rest of your issues you are out of luck on.
There is a big chunk of the beginning of the range that does nothing. When it first comes on, it is at a very low level, but can then be ramped back from there, but it will go off again while still a long way from the end. There is also a chunk at the end that doesn’t increase the brightness much.
BUT, there is a significant chunk of the range that is great ramping with plenty of space to dial it in where you want it. If this was spread over the whole ring turning range, it would just mean you’d have to move your fingers further to dial it to where you want.
Assuming you use the forward switch and leave it off in a usable setting. If you keep the switch on and use the dial to turn off then obviously it’s more annoying to deal with
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The detent is very minimal
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But you are able to feel it? Just slightly? I’ll check mine again tomorrow, but I could not feel anything on my sample, but I only had a few minutes with it though…
My 2020 RRT-01 has detentes at each end of the ring’s traverse… but the detentes are so soft, they might as well not exist. It basically functions like a light without detentes.
In contrast, my RRT-03 has much firmer detentes at each setting.
I suppose a modder who wants a more pronounced detente could probably fix it simply by drilling the hole for the detente ball bearing a tiny bit deeper.
Have you tried this with night adapted eyes? I don’t own the 2020 but the 2019 model. When on, just after the first detent, light is visible only in absolute darkness with adapted eyes. Then it goes (to me) visually linear up to the end detent. Brightness just before and after the second detent can’t be discriminated by eye, but by a luxmeter. So, no visible “turbo” mode. I only have a V11R to compare it with, but in contrast to the SWM, the RRT01 2019 plays in a different league. I’d say it is as perfect as it could be, except for the missing turbo.
What I’m up to: Did Jetbeam really managed to ruin the regulation of the RRT01?
Yes, I test R9 on my skin.
you might also enjoy a triple in a Magnetic Rotary 
you can buy from Skylumen.com
or roll your own if you have the resources:
(pic is a link)
sorry to hear
Im glad you posted your first impressions.
this makes me rethink recommending the magnetic rotaries
you are not the first to make those observations… I have ways to live with them, but I wont blame you for stepping aside.
My lights get new control ring grease and new LED. I appreciate you making me aware that not everyone follows the upgrade path I use for my magnetic rotaries. To me they are not acceptable in stock form. I cannot tolerate low CRI.
sad but true (requires modding):
> detentes do vary, some are too hard, some are practically non existent
> lubrication and ring resistance, or lack thereof, also varies between lights
about the tailswitch
with your 2020, you have the option to use the switch to turn the light off and on, with the dial in any position. There is no need to turn the dial all the way down on the 2020,
use the switch to give yourself the option for Last Mode Memory.
> the ring does not produce immediate light from off
thanks for that clear explanation
RRT-01 are capable of lower lows than HDS… its a feature, not a bug… LOL
sadly, magnetic rotaries are not regulated on LiIon, only on CR123
about first impressions:
they can change, sometimes
The RRT-01 is far from perfect, its just better, for me now, than other imperfect lights
there is no perfect light, off the shelf
the RRT-01 can be improved, and imo it is a Fantastic Intuitive UI
I respect that a light with a loose ring can be unacceptable, and I encourage you to send it back. If you are willing to try your luck again, buy another one… hopefully the detente will be better, and also the lubrication.
devils advocate
the detente is not needed, since the 2020 has a switch
and, IF the control ring is disassembled and relubricated with Nyogel 767a, the detente is not needed even on the 2012 and 2019 models with no tailswitch. (I realize that is a Big If)
what I like about Magnetic Rotaries, that I cannot get in any other design
1. the ramping is totally intuitive, I dont need to read a manual, nor think about what mode steps the drive has
2. Magnetic Ramping is Visually Stepless. HDS has 24 hops, Spy has 7 hops, they are not visually Stepless.
definitely not perfect, but I can live with it, IF the LED gets changed and the ring lubricated.
I revise my recommendation of the RRT-01
Do NOT buy, unless you are in a position to Upgrade the LED and the control ring grease.
as an alternative, consider an FW3a or other Anduril lights… they have visually stepless ramping (150 hops), which I find useful and not jarring.
outstanding beam for my preference in tight “throwy” hotspots
sounds like moving the reflector (designed for a wider LED) closer to the 219b (smaller die), improved the beam.
very helpful tip 
Spent some time swapping around parts in some of my magnetic ring lights last night.
A week ago, I accidentally destroyed the driver in my TCR-01. I had the light setup as a triple, but wasn’t satisfied with it as the output seemed too low.
- I swapped in the driver from my 2019 RRT-01
- I swapped in a high-CRI 219C originally taken from a Lumintop EDC18. This 219C has excellent rosy tint. Almost like the famous 219B. But I still wasn’t satisfied with the lumens. So I ended up swapping again for an XPL HI 5D …. much better. It’s not high CRI, but makes up for with vastly better output and throw.
- I also swapped in an orange peel reflector.
Fairly happy with the light now. It looks very slightly throwier than my 2020 RRT-01 neutral, and its quite a bit smaller.
So as not to waste my 2019 RRT01, I swapped in the driver from any old EYE10. This was a driver where I had attempted wiuthout success to resistor mod it to up the current. And I had replaced the driver wires with 22 aug wires. It works now, but it’s definitely not as good as the original 2019 driver. Output is noticeably lower.
Guess I need to contact Jetbeam and see about ordering replacement drivers so I can upgrade my older lights for more output.
I find high-CRI to be nice, but raw output to be nicer. If I feel in the mood for high-CRI I’ll grab my D4V2 or an FW3A with SST20. With 18500 tube installed those lights are similar in size to the earlier model RRT-01, but have vastly more output while using a cell with twice the capacity (using 2200 mAh 18500 INR Vapcell).
> Fairly happy with the light now.
glad you are finding options you enjoy
thumbs up on buying a couple spare drivers, they are inexpensive, to save a host
> I find high-CRI to be nice, but raw output to be nicer.
both is best
> If I feel in the mood for high-CRI…[multi emitter lights] vastly more output
I like your strategy,
high output and High CRI triples and quads
plus
high output throwy single LEDs
examples of throwy and floody beams on modded RRT-01
throwy single
floody triple and quad mule
here is a post that came up in one of my searches in this thread… those of you interested in LH351d for its high lumen output may find this encouraging:
pic links to original post
Sorry, i am not adept at quoting or know how to refer to a buried post…
Did you do the kraton tape adjustment and lose the centering ring / spacer on your 2020 as well?
Nice beam adjustment! Do you trust the kraton tape to isolate the bottom of the reflector from the wiring solders? And did it feel firmly seated without the ring / spacer?
Here is what I did on the 2020 model (it uses a more traditional centering ring which I kept and looked good with the LED I chose):
I cut flat parts on the centering ring so it would not “rock” against screw heads and clear my solder blobs. It sits nice and even now.
For the 2019 model I used the 3 layers of tape and left off the centering ring. Surprisingly, the reflector was not shorting anything even without the tape but that made it sit too low and the tape did give some extra piece of mind that it would be electrically isolated as well.