[Sale] Buck drivers 20, 21, 22, 24, 30mm L6, MF01, MF02/04(S), TN40S/42, BLF GT, Acebeam X45/65

Probably true about the switch. I thought OSHPark has issues close to the edge, so not sure about using OSHPark for this one.

What are you thinking of? Just a board layout/OSHPark thing or a complete driver?

you can always make the OshPark PCB 0.35mm bigger and then manually grind it to copper edge

True, guess you don't have one of these lights? I would take two. Not sure if there's more interest. So are you think'n of just the board or complete driver?

Fet+ 1? I can draw it easily. Just need right measurements.

Drawing this is not the main problem, it’s getting a compatible or the same switch, so that the pressure point is the same

I guess

Iv'e bought a few variants of these switches before, believe from Mouser, DigiKey or Arrow.

Of course a good option is simply transfer the stock driver switch.

I've done several mods with these switches - yes, position is critical and also the size of the plunger varies, and the placement of the feet/contact points vary. For the feet/contact, usually they are close enough but sometimes they hang off a bit, needing some solder bridging. Also these type of switches all have a common weakness - the force applied to the switch can weaken the front solder, pushing the switch or tilting it backwards. The solder mask can be pulled right up/off the board. Happened several times to my lights and other lights I've modded. I always try to add some sort of epoxy, like JB Weld, to the backside for support. C_K, Ceral_Killer, laid out a couple driver designs with these switches and I've used them many times in various unintended lights.

This switch design, I believe is the one biggest weakness of most of the Amutorch designs, though I don't think I've ever had or seen a switch problem on a Amutorch yet. I try to avoid lights using them but seems unavoidable, specially when they want to save as much vertical space as possible in compact lights. Mechanically, this switch is a poor design for this kind of use, directly effected by applied finger pressure. Add to that, ramping and lots of clicks, etc., in our modern UI's...

Dang, that's look'n pretty good! Ok, guess you find this stuff easy . What package are you using? DipTrace? Was hoping to get a chance to learn DipTrace. because TA said it was pretty easy.

I can give you exact dims, least the best I can. I have the E3 in pieces still. I'll check, but think the E3S uses the identical driver.

Wow though! Would love Anduril in these lights, plus with my epoxy fix on the switch.

There are similar switches that have a ledge in the front that goes well below the solder pads - meant to transfer push force to the PCB side.
I wonder why I haven’t seen this stuff in a flashlight yet…

Hi Lexel,

If it is always possible, i need a buck driver for an 6 volts XHP70.2 with an input of 2× 26650 5.5A cells (8.4v), i hope for max 8A, the diameter max is 32mm is for a Maglite.

Let me know

Thank

Lexel,

Is this mf02s driver available as it is listed in the OP? I just got mf02s and shaved the dome and love the light, but hate the UI. I love Narsil though. I haven’t done any mods yet except de dome, but this sounds potential for me. Based on what you said above, beside the mod to the carrier, is there any other suggestions you have for installing this?

Also. Could you give me total price for shipment to USA?

With or without e-switch? Hopefully Level can hook you up, but if not you might check out the FX-30 in Convoy’s store. It’s a 30mm 6-8.4 volt buck driver good for 5 amps.

Thanks for the alternative proposal, but I know these drivers and need more current, and I’m wondering if 2S liion is enough for 8A, I think 3S liion is needed.
Sorry for my lack of knowledge in electronics.

This sales thread is ended ?

Where to find a high current driver that I can modify with adding a heatsink with only 3 or 4 modes (moon/very low, low, medium, very very high) useful for everyday and at a good price ?

~50+ Watts useful for every day in a maglite?

With 2S you can direct drive an XHP70.2 (even above 8A) with a cheap driver but it wont be efficient and it wont be suitable in a maglite body.

A driver like you are asking from Lexel he can surely make but it would probably be 20 Euro or more and you are still left having to use inferior maglite body for luxury driver.

only 3 or 4 modes are useful for everyday (for me), maglites have a very robust, simple, slippery and well-crafted body, with cells wedged and protected from shocks it is a tool for my night work.

Then the pleasure of doing it yourself, with good parts made by flashaolic, it is why “direct drive” with “a cheap driver but it wont be efficient and it wont be suitable in a maglite body” this mod is not for me.

How to contact Lexel, i sent him a pm 2 days ago but i had no response ?

It looks like he’s been off of BLF for 8 days or so. He’ll be back around sooner or later. Eventually we all need a little break (that and a chance to focus on life matters from time to time).

Ok merci

For the money and time to modify a Maglite, have you looked at a Sofirn SP70? I use it nightly at my work. About $55. Has smooth ramping that I like and the potential to get very bright. If you switch to discreet brightness levels, I believe I got the spacing just right.

Someone posted that Lexel might be having some health issues. Maybe in hospital. So lets wish him well and expect he may not log on for a while.

Best wishes Lexel, get well soon !