Higher end PCBs tend to have this extra bit of pad that comes out from the pos/neg pad and the thermal pad where extra solder spills over. I think it accounts for that.
So I was whining last week about being disappointed in my 2020 version because of a “loose” ring. FWIW I received a second one today and this sample is MUCH better. This ring is not “mushy” for lack of a better word, I’d say it’s minimum 50% firmer and smoother allowing me to easily dial in my desired brightness. The first one was loose enough to change brightness by itself in my pocket. Sure that’s not an issue if using the tailswitch, but for certain applications I prefer to have it on and turned all the way down.
I just swapped out with a high CRI Nichia (Thanks to J_S) and now i’m enjoying this light that I really wanted to like. That’s what this hobby is all about for me.
congratulations!
thanks for the update
the amount of grease on the ring makes a huge difference to me too
whining is good group therapy, glad you feel better now 
at some point, if you want more detail,
pm me if you would like a walk through on the disassembly steps to do your own ring regrease,
glad it is not immediately necessary
Symptom- rrt01 stopped working at work today, after using a good hour, ons snd offs, not straight.
A little while later wouldn’t turn on. Took it apart snd it turned on as mule so i think my tall blobs were shorting again.
Resoldered the blobs snd now the light has a flicker at med-high levels.
… there’s a suspicious plasticy smell btw! Not a good sign. But the light does turn on. And the battery is charged i think. When it was brand new before i swapped emitter it flickered on all levels, i charged the batt and it never happened again, pre or post swap…
If burnt driver… can i crawl to jb and try to buy parts or is this going to be a do over?
Thanks for notch analysis earlier too
Jetbeam will sell you a driver.
The driver costs $10 and shipping costs $7. You can buy multiple drivers and shipping is the same.
Make sure your soldering is done nicely, with a bit of flux and without big blobs as the reflector will cause shorts in this light.
It is either a bad solder joint that is causing the flickering or the driver got damaged because of the short caused by the reflector.
Like pol77 said just small amount of solder, clean everything afterward.
I also like to add liquid electrical tape instead of kapton on solder points to avoid any possibility of shortening.
You can find iz here:
https://www.amazon.com/Star-brite-Liquid-Electrical-Tape/dp/B0000AXNOD
How does the liquid tape hold up to heat? Does it melt or smell when the LED gets very hot?
Not at all. It’a industrial rated and i’m using it on SBT90.2 hotrod without a twitch. It makes a hard rubber like insulated layer over anything and it’s even resistant to light mechanical damage. The best part is that you can remove it anytime
Thank you much! I suspected as much. I shall order new driver. Jetbeam is asking me where i got my light etc. I think they think i am complaining when i fully happy paying for driver and shipping.
Unless they want to send a freebee I’m ok with that but i did admit fault here, we’re tinkerers and that fun doesn’t come without some fails…
Edit- never mind, i think i burnt something out, hope jb will sell me a driver. Here’s pic of some crusty bead coming out of a thing amajiggy. And btw now ive tried another battery, took off the bottom driver cover which acts as reverse polarity lock out snd i could test with my flat top batteries.
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Shouldn’t a shorted reflector act kind of like a bulb with a super high vf? What im asking is, shouldn’t it be a survivable incident, may have been 10 minutes vs 10 seconds during testing after emitter swap. The first time it was ok afterwards at all levels. This time didn’t come back ok, the battery pretty low, maybe i damaged it, it ots the stock battery may have lvp internal?? I should but have not tried another batt. I did charge the battery and after a reasonable charge time, indicator light went green. The smell made me think there’s a problem (flicker plus smell) snd btw flickers faster at higher current snd slowish at medium (maybe 3hz), no flicker at low. Please advise, thx. I will rework/ check solder snd spacing etc… but i think you guys right, time to order a driver (once jb deems me worthy)
I have a spare 2019 RRT-01 driver. PM me your mailing address.
A protected battery will (should) trip when it’s direct shorted. Probably what happened initially. I usually test all my mods without reflector on low power just to test function then finish building just so I know it worked before final assembly. My first few mods I used a protected battery always to test and it did save me once! Another time I got stubborn and refused to believe I shorted something. Needless to say I turned some springs to jello in just a few seconds. That short came from the bottom side of driver though not a reflector.
Pm to Mr Slider. Always quick to help Jonathan. I will keep on the jb support angle and update as well.
Thanks JS, your support for the hobby and willingness to correspond is getting expensive, lucky the gf still amused by all of this. I haven’t moved onto the kitchen counter space yet! We’ll see what happens when the soldering station an overflow flashlights (from the desk where they are relatively contained still) start staying there full time!
These drivers are pretty much direct drive when the battery voltage is above the vf of the led. The only thing that keeps them from frying anything is a diode, inductor and resistor all in series with the led. All of them have some resistance added up, that limits current to the led.
The part that looks like you blew is the inductor. If the led leads where shorted the current probably became higher than the inductor could handle.
Its possble that replacing the inductor could fix it, but just ordering a new driver would be much easier and gurateed to fix it.
Wouldn’t be a bad idea to order you a couple of spares just in case.
Does that piece have innards tyo fry? Im handy but not pro with a soldering iron, how does one unsolder a row of headers (in case my terminology wrong, the through hole rows of prongs that connect two layers of board)? Ive put them together but in terms of disassembly, seems problematic, i have done drag iron back and forth and flow the row on arduinos snd other smallish boards, loose wires can be done individually though so more easily accomplished. Can i use wick?
I think you’re right, use new driver but attempting repair sounds fun also.
Can those components starting with inductor, be sourced and specs id’d easily?
Thank you, you all are incredibly helpful. Ive been catapulted to “pro modder ” in the eyes of some around me. Because i swapped a few leds and complain horribly about light tint.
JETBeam confirmed that RRT01 Raptor NW CRI is 70.
I emailed them via their official website (jetbeamlight).
yes, it is a Low CRI LED
pic is a link
Tribute to moderator007 for discovering the replacement reflector that works with 219b in Original RRT-01.
note the difference in hotspot size…
stock beam
moderator007 reflector beam quality!
Thank you Sir moderator007!
what reflector is this and where available pls? also i guess i should ask if it will work in my 2020 rrt01? which will back on line after new driver kindly provided by Mr. J Slider! thanks jonathan! btw, the driver looks nearly identical to my burnt 2020. JB claims the 2020 has a updated driver, they say there is new temperature related componenet or update, i do see a small chip with different labeling, but otherwise, seemingly identical, i will post pic tonight…hopefully someone can id said parts.
i can live with my beam profile as is, it came out pretty nice anyway, just would like a more diffused option without having to diffuse by tape or stick on layers…
no,
the moderator007 reflector only fits original models of RRT-01 and Eye10…
and fwiw,
NOS of RRT-01 from aushunteronline are completely sold out now.
there is no other retail source for Original RRT-01 that I know of