How does the liquid tape hold up to heat? Does it melt or smell when the LED gets very hot?
Not at all. It’a industrial rated and i’m using it on SBT90.2 hotrod without a twitch. It makes a hard rubber like insulated layer over anything and it’s even resistant to light mechanical damage. The best part is that you can remove it anytime
Thank you much! I suspected as much. I shall order new driver. Jetbeam is asking me where i got my light etc. I think they think i am complaining when i fully happy paying for driver and shipping.
Unless they want to send a freebee I’m ok with that but i did admit fault here, we’re tinkerers and that fun doesn’t come without some fails…
Edit- never mind, i think i burnt something out, hope jb will sell me a driver. Here’s pic of some crusty bead coming out of a thing amajiggy. And btw now ive tried another battery, took off the bottom driver cover which acts as reverse polarity lock out snd i could test with my flat top batteries.
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Shouldn’t a shorted reflector act kind of like a bulb with a super high vf? What im asking is, shouldn’t it be a survivable incident, may have been 10 minutes vs 10 seconds during testing after emitter swap. The first time it was ok afterwards at all levels. This time didn’t come back ok, the battery pretty low, maybe i damaged it, it ots the stock battery may have lvp internal?? I should but have not tried another batt. I did charge the battery and after a reasonable charge time, indicator light went green. The smell made me think there’s a problem (flicker plus smell) snd btw flickers faster at higher current snd slowish at medium (maybe 3hz), no flicker at low. Please advise, thx. I will rework/ check solder snd spacing etc… but i think you guys right, time to order a driver (once jb deems me worthy)
I have a spare 2019 RRT-01 driver. PM me your mailing address.
A protected battery will (should) trip when it’s direct shorted. Probably what happened initially. I usually test all my mods without reflector on low power just to test function then finish building just so I know it worked before final assembly. My first few mods I used a protected battery always to test and it did save me once! Another time I got stubborn and refused to believe I shorted something. Needless to say I turned some springs to jello in just a few seconds. That short came from the bottom side of driver though not a reflector.
Pm to Mr Slider. Always quick to help Jonathan. I will keep on the jb support angle and update as well.
Thanks JS, your support for the hobby and willingness to correspond is getting expensive, lucky the gf still amused by all of this. I haven’t moved onto the kitchen counter space yet! We’ll see what happens when the soldering station an overflow flashlights (from the desk where they are relatively contained still) start staying there full time!
These drivers are pretty much direct drive when the battery voltage is above the vf of the led. The only thing that keeps them from frying anything is a diode, inductor and resistor all in series with the led. All of them have some resistance added up, that limits current to the led.
The part that looks like you blew is the inductor. If the led leads where shorted the current probably became higher than the inductor could handle.
Its possble that replacing the inductor could fix it, but just ordering a new driver would be much easier and gurateed to fix it.
Wouldn’t be a bad idea to order you a couple of spares just in case.
Does that piece have innards tyo fry? Im handy but not pro with a soldering iron, how does one unsolder a row of headers (in case my terminology wrong, the through hole rows of prongs that connect two layers of board)? Ive put them together but in terms of disassembly, seems problematic, i have done drag iron back and forth and flow the row on arduinos snd other smallish boards, loose wires can be done individually though so more easily accomplished. Can i use wick?
I think you’re right, use new driver but attempting repair sounds fun also.
Can those components starting with inductor, be sourced and specs id’d easily?
Thank you, you all are incredibly helpful. Ive been catapulted to “pro modder ” in the eyes of some around me. Because i swapped a few leds and complain horribly about light tint.
JETBeam confirmed that RRT01 Raptor NW CRI is 70.
I emailed them via their official website (jetbeamlight).
yes, it is a Low CRI LED
pic is a link
Tribute to moderator007 for discovering the replacement reflector that works with 219b in Original RRT-01.
note the difference in hotspot size…
stock beam
moderator007 reflector beam quality!
Thank you Sir moderator007!
what reflector is this and where available pls? also i guess i should ask if it will work in my 2020 rrt01? which will back on line after new driver kindly provided by Mr. J Slider! thanks jonathan! btw, the driver looks nearly identical to my burnt 2020. JB claims the 2020 has a updated driver, they say there is new temperature related componenet or update, i do see a small chip with different labeling, but otherwise, seemingly identical, i will post pic tonight…hopefully someone can id said parts.
i can live with my beam profile as is, it came out pretty nice anyway, just would like a more diffused option without having to diffuse by tape or stick on layers…
no,
the moderator007 reflector only fits original models of RRT-01 and Eye10…
and fwiw,
NOS of RRT-01 from aushunteronline are completely sold out now.
there is no other retail source for Original RRT-01 that I know of
Im too slow jon_slider beat me to it. 
As far as I know the refelector sizes are different between original RRT-01 and the 2019 RRT-01. The one jon_slider is refering to fits the original RRT-01 with no rings was mentioned here.
.
Thanks jon_slider, glad you like it. I didn’t do much, I just bought a bunch of reflectors with similar dimensions and tried them all out. I got lucky these worked with out any modification. 
Here’s my 2020 driver side by side with an “older gen” kindly loaned to me by Jonathan.
There is only one chip i see that it’s labeled different. I should circle it… I’ll circle it.
Can anyone id the component? Also are your guys’ (you all with the 2020s) driver’s visually identical to the old ones also?
Jb claimed that the 2020 is different, something about temperature management. I have ordered a couple/ few 2020 drivers, we’ll see if they look different than what came out of my 2020 which looks the same as Jonathan’s 2019/2012 driver.
Won’t know if it behaves the same until I’m brave enough to crank down the bezel again. I made cleaner solders but will wait for liquid etape or kraton tape to ensure electrical iso from the reflector.
What is this kraton tape a lot of you talk of? Do i need that more than conventional etape? Do i need liquid etape? Is plastidip similar to liquid etape? Maybe less quick drying? Would either be considered potting compound?
Sssalotta questions, any comments appreciated …
Btw, in the picture, the “2020” driver is on the left, the 2019 is on the right, with circled part, and im still debating whether the replacement i ordered will go in once arrived, or just keep the 2019 in it. Which may have shipped simultaneously but Jonathan’s postal logistics (and geography) lapped jb’s by a goodly amount…
Ps, i have syringes w various tips at work, tomorrow I’ll be injecting nyogel into the alleged grease hole in the control ring…
According to Jetbeam, the 2020 drivers are marked RRT01 where the 2019 are marked EYE10. If that is accurate, it looks like there are two 2019 drivers in your photo.
Interesting, mine was on the first shipment out of China.
Interesting, mine (light) was on the first shipment out of China. Ordered in may sent beginning of June.
I dont think there is any different in 2019 and 2020.
2012 has different sense resistor I believe (lower output)
“2019” is not the “old” driver