This is the higher flux bin of 3500K. Seems pretty nice with the TIRs. Even with low power it’s only a little above BBL. Since this is a bit lower CCT even the reflector having higher Duv doesn’t look too green, it starts looking more yellow than green. Will be interesting to compare this one to the lower flux bin 3500K I also have.
That is a nice one! TA suggested to use these above BBL leds with a FET-only driver, but this one is already nice with a 6×7135+FET driver (so without the single 7135 channel), at 2.1A the efficiency is a bit better than FET only. Small detail is that such driver does not exist, someone needs to make one with the correct mode spacing for the combination of 6×7135 and FET.
This one is Duv 0.0025 to 0.0007 with Frosted Carclo and 3347K to 3378K CCT. So slightly higher Duv, slightly lower CCT and 1 less flux bin. Overall, it’s fine but the higher flux bin 3500K is better so no real reason to consider this one except for a slightly cheaper price or 100K less CCT.
SPHWHTL3DA0GF4RTS6 (5000K) – purchased August 2018 from Arrow, NOT Digi-Key
These are the ones I have sliced like ~20 of. I thought I had purchased some from Digi-Key more recently but it appears not. Maybe Bob can tell us if the Digi-Key ones are better or worse than this otherwise I will eventually get the Digi-Key one on a future order.
This one is pretty decent but the 2700K and 3500K both have a slightly better tint (regarding proximity to BBL). This is one better flux bin than the 2700K and the same flux bin as the 3500K.
I enjoy the LH351d, its slightly pink or peach, compared to cooler lights
not pink compared to a 9080 219b, but its nice, without green tint
So this is a LH351D 5000K that you dedomed and swapped in yourself? If so, how did you dedome it?
I sliced that one. I used 3 washers, the final one being a 0.9mm thick 19mm outside diameter very smooth stainless washer I found at Lowes hardware. With Feather Double Edge razor blade. The first two cuts with the thicker washers then it usually takes 1-3 slices with the final washer depending on how thin and even you want it.
I always reflow them on a 20mm star with no solder on the LED pads so it sits flat. If I want to do multiple at once I also have a 33mm 4XP noctigon with no solder on LED pads too.
So after all this testing I think the stand out ones are 2700K, 3500K if you want to keep the dome on.
For slicing I think any of them with Duv of 0.0035 or less would work nicely depending on where you want the tint to end up.
I think I will make a larger order of 3500K and also get the 5000K dog fart from Digi-Key and hope for the best. Still searching for a decent 4K. I have one lead on an unknown bin from China that I may be able to get a sample of.
it has earned a spot on my mouse pad,
The tint is good during the day
and being twice as bright as my sw45k, cant be bad
respect the 351
of note
all the other lights in my edc rotation are 219b
this 351 is the only outsider to make the cut
I particularly like the pebbled tir beam, very even, useful at close range
efficiency test
with a depleted Eneloop AAA at 1.2v in the Tool that contactcr built w LH351s I got 55 lumens on max.
The same battery in my copper tool, powering an sw45k, gave me 25 lumens..
so yes, the LH351d Is indeed twice as bright as the sw45k.. wow..
Looks like MTN has restocked 4000K +90CRI LH351D’s (bare LED). Anyone know if these are the same as the Digikey ones? P6 flux bin, doesn’t say what CCT bin, I’m thinking it might be the same TP quarter bin.
dont know the answer to your questions, but here are some visuals, for reference
the light in the middle thanks to contactcr
max output reference:
the Cu eTool makes 110 lumens with a 4000k 219c or with a 6000 xp-g2, and it is supposed to make 80 lumens w a 219b 4000k
I was checking to see if there was an obvious difference in “efficiency” as expressed as max lumens on Hi. Albeit the hosts are not identical, they all came suprisingly close to the same outputs, on my light meter, calibrated to an HDS:
73 lm 219b 4.5k Cu Tool w reflector, very pink during the day
72 lm LH351d 5k Aluminum Tool aaa w tir, very neutral during the day, but looks pink compared to optisolis and looks yellow compared to 219b.. iow tint is relative
67 lm optisolis 6k JetU w pebble tir, slightly green during the day
clemence is the master of TiR and cherry picked the one he put on the JetU, I dont know his secrets, maybe ask, or maybe contactcr already can tell you…
Digi-Key “dog fart” arrived. It’s almost identical to the Arrow one tested except for about 100K higher CCT ~4800K instead of ~4700K. Duv is otherwise the same.
How does the LH351D 90cri compare to a nichia 319A (80cri) in terms of efficiency and beam pattern? Thinking about swapping to a higher CRILED in my Quark Mk III…
the higher CRILED will be less “efficient”, inasmuch as it will produce less total lumens
CRI, and especially CRI R9 go up at least as much as lumens go down
imo, it is worth the trade.
now, depending what CCT you are interested in
there may be reasons to choose 219b over LH351d or SST-20
Im not sure yet, which I would prefer, have not tried the SST for example
I do like the Nichia more than the unsliced LH351d..
for my pink biases the LH351d needs to be sliced,
that also comes with a lumen penalty
How does the LH351D 90cri compare to a nichia 319A (80cri) in terms of efficiency and beam pattern? Thinking about swapping to a higher CRILED in my Quark Mk III…
If the die of the 319A is close to that of the 219C, the LH351D will be floodier but probably still have more output/be more efficient even binned at 90CRI. The LH351D has a die size right between the XP-L and XM-L2 IIRC.
the higher CRILED will be less “efficient”, inasmuch as it will produce less total lumens
CRI, and especially CRI R9 go up at least as much as lumens go down
imo, it is worth the trade.
now, depending what CCT you are interested in
there may be reasons to choose 219b over LH351d or SST-20
Im not sure yet, which I would prefer, have not tried the SST for example
I do like the Nichia more than the unsliced LH351d..
for my pink biases the LH351d needs to be sliced,
that also comes with a lumen penalty
I’ve actually become quite fond of the 4000k sst-20 but I believe those would be even less efficient than the LH351D. I have a few lights with that and while the r9 does lack a bit it seems overall quite nice. I’d really like to keep this as bright as possible and the 319 is doing alright for now… just love my high cri options!
I’d really like to keep this as bright as possible and the 319 is doing alright for now… just love my high cri options!
I think you might have a 319a D340, if thats true, and you go to a sw45k D220.. you would see a 35% lower output.. sounds like you might not like that.. but
let me play CRI advocate..
say your light makes 340 lumens now
and with a sw45k, lets say it “only” makes 220 lumens
the low CRI is only 54% brighter.. that is not really a big visual difference
and you give up all Red rendering.. to get those extra 120 lumens.. is it worth it?
you know best..
lucky for you, that version of the quark is not glued.. tinker on!
Next up: SPHWHTL3DA0GF4UPP6 (3500K)
This is the higher flux bin of 3500K. Seems pretty nice with the TIRs. Even with low power it’s only a little above BBL. Since this is a bit lower CCT even the reflector having higher Duv doesn’t look too green, it starts looking more yellow than green. Will be interesting to compare this one to the lower flux bin 3500K I also have.
That is a nice one! TA suggested to use these above BBL leds with a FET-only driver, but this one is already nice with a 6×7135+FET driver (so without the single 7135 channel), at 2.1A the efficiency is a bit better than FET only. Small detail is that such driver does not exist, someone needs to make one with the correct mode spacing for the combination of 6×7135 and FET.
link to djozz tests
I put 4000k LH351D to my fw3a. No green at all. Very pleasant tint.
Mike
Think of how stupid the average person is, and realize half of them are stupider than that. George Carlin
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If a lot of people listen to Slayer, the world would be a better place to live" - Tommy Wiseau
This one looks interesting.
WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube
SPHWHTL3DA0GF4UPN6 (3500K)
This one is Duv 0.0025 to 0.0007 with Frosted Carclo and 3347K to 3378K CCT. So slightly higher Duv, slightly lower CCT and 1 less flux bin. Overall, it’s fine but the higher flux bin 3500K is better so no real reason to consider this one except for a slightly cheaper price or 100K less CCT.
SPHWHTL3DA0GF4RTS6 (5000K) – purchased August 2018 from Arrow, NOT Digi-Key
These are the ones I have sliced like ~20 of. I thought I had purchased some from Digi-Key more recently but it appears not. Maybe Bob can tell us if the Digi-Key ones are better or worse than this otherwise I will eventually get the Digi-Key one on a future order.
I enjoy the LH351d, its slightly pink or peach, compared to cooler lights
not pink compared to a 9080 219b, but its nice, without green tint
LH351d turns on at 21 lumens in a Tool aaa 2.0 w pebble tir.. dont know how that differs from stock
also, as moderator posted above, his triple LH351 gets to 1000+ lumens (driver may be boosted)
my triple sw45 with a stock 2019 RRT-01 driver, that claims 950 lumens w XP-L, gets to 410 lumens, behind a carclo narrow clear with glass lens on top
all that to say moderator is getting similar lumens from the LH351d as the stock XP-L in the 2019 RRT-01
colors
as far as the 9080 219b 4500k, here is the difference between the sw45 in the middle, and sw45k
that sw45 looks slightly pink to my eyes, compared to the LH351d that looks very slightly golden by comparison, this photo gives some idea:
So this is a LH351D 5000K that you dedomed and swapped in yourself? If so, how did you dedome it?
SPHWHTL3DA0GF4VPP6 (3000K)
This one is pretty decent but the 2700K and 3500K both have a slightly better tint (regarding proximity to BBL). This is one better flux bin than the 2700K and the same flux bin as the 3500K.
I got the light as a gift from contactcr
I sliced that one. I used 3 washers, the final one being a 0.9mm thick 19mm outside diameter very smooth stainless washer I found at Lowes hardware. With Feather Double Edge razor blade. The first two cuts with the thicker washers then it usually takes 1-3 slices with the final washer depending on how thin and even you want it.
I always reflow them on a 20mm star with no solder on the LED pads so it sits flat. If I want to do multiple at once I also have a 33mm 4XP noctigon with no solder on LED pads too.
So after all this testing I think the stand out ones are 2700K, 3500K if you want to keep the dome on.
For slicing I think any of them with Duv of 0.0035 or less would work nicely depending on where you want the tint to end up.
I think I will make a larger order of 3500K and also get the 5000K dog fart from Digi-Key and hope for the best. Still searching for a decent 4K. I have one lead on an unknown bin from China that I may be able to get a sample of.
SPHWHTL3DA0GF4TPQ6 (4000K)
Just some prelim testing w/ Carclo Frosted:
CCT = 4030K (Duv 0.0036)
CCT = 4025K (Duv 0.0033)
CCT = 4041K (Duv 0.0029)
CCT = 4054K (Duv 0.0020)
CCT = 4067K (Duv 0.0011)
shaved LH351D.
Modded Tool AAA:
CCT = 4490K (Duv -0.0031)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 94.2 [ R9 = 69.5 ]
——
I like this TIR LH351d light,
it has earned a spot on my mouse pad,
The tint is good during the day
and being twice as bright as my sw45k, cant be bad
respect the 351
of note
all the other lights in my edc rotation are 219b
this 351 is the only outsider to make the cut
I particularly like the pebbled tir beam, very even, useful at close range
efficiency test
with a depleted Eneloop AAA at 1.2v in the Tool that contactcr built w LH351s I got 55 lumens on max.
The same battery in my copper tool, powering an sw45k, gave me 25 lumens..
so yes, the LH351d Is indeed twice as bright as the sw45k.. wow..
Looks like MTN has restocked 4000K +90CRI LH351D’s (bare LED). Anyone know if these are the same as the Digikey ones? P6 flux bin, doesn’t say what CCT bin, I’m thinking it might be the same TP quarter bin.
dont know the answer to your questions, but here are some visuals, for reference
the light in the middle thanks to contactcr
max output reference:
the Cu eTool makes 110 lumens with a 4000k 219c or with a 6000 xp-g2, and it is supposed to make 80 lumens w a 219b 4000k
I was checking to see if there was an obvious difference in “efficiency” as expressed as max lumens on Hi. Albeit the hosts are not identical, they all came suprisingly close to the same outputs, on my light meter, calibrated to an HDS:
73 lm 219b 4.5k Cu Tool w reflector, very pink during the day
72 lm LH351d 5k Aluminum Tool aaa w tir, very neutral during the day, but looks pink compared to optisolis and looks yellow compared to 219b.. iow tint is relative
67 lm optisolis 6k JetU w pebble tir, slightly green during the day
Where did you find a tir that fits the tool? I have looked from time to time…
EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)
comes on the light from lumintop that way now
https://www.amazon.com/LUMINTOP-Flashlight-Pocket-Sized-Waterproof-Backp...
they are doing that with the new worm too, now called EDC01
clemence is the master of TiR and cherry picked the one he put on the JetU, I dont know his secrets, maybe ask, or maybe contactcr already can tell you…
My tools and rey lights are all reflector lights…
EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)
I’m going to plug my own sale thread cause I’m a rebel.
I’m selling a small batch of the 3500K LEDs from this test along with some other spare LEDs from my parts bin:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68717
Digi-Key “dog fart” arrived. It’s almost identical to the Arrow one tested except for about 100K higher CCT ~4800K instead of ~4700K. Duv is otherwise the same.
for a 2700k option I think the SST-20 might have higher R9 than the 2700k LH351d… not sure.. I have not compared their specs..
here is a link to the Warm SST
Luminus SST-20 J3 JA3 Warm White 2700K CRI95 LED Emitter
pic is a link to the warm LH351d source
How does the LH351D 90cri compare to a nichia 319A (80cri) in terms of efficiency and beam pattern? Thinking about swapping to a higher CRI LED in my Quark Mk III…
the higher CRI LED will be less “efficient”, inasmuch as it will produce less total lumens
CRI, and especially CRI R9 go up at least as much as lumens go down
imo, it is worth the trade.
now, depending what CCT you are interested in
there may be reasons to choose 219b over LH351d or SST-20
Im not sure yet, which I would prefer, have not tried the SST for example
I do like the Nichia more than the unsliced LH351d..
for my pink biases the LH351d needs to be sliced,
that also comes with a lumen penalty
If the die of the 319A is close to that of the 219C, the LH351D will be floodier but probably still have more output/be more efficient even binned at 90CRI. The LH351D has a die size right between the XP-L and XM-L2 IIRC.
It’s actually bigger on the LES vs the XP-L die.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
I’ve actually become quite fond of the 4000k sst-20 but I believe those would be even less efficient than the LH351D. I have a few lights with that and while the r9 does lack a bit it seems overall quite nice. I’d really like to keep this as bright as possible and the 319 is doing alright for now… just love my high cri options!
I think you might have a 319a D340, if thats true, and you go to a sw45k D220.. you would see a 35% lower output.. sounds like you might not like that.. but
let me play CRI advocate..
say your light makes 340 lumens now
and with a sw45k, lets say it “only” makes 220 lumens
the low CRI is only 54% brighter.. that is not really a big visual difference
and you give up all Red rendering.. to get those extra 120 lumens.. is it worth it?
you know best..
lucky for you, that version of the quark is not glued.. tinker on!
Sorry, that’s what I meant unless XM-L2 LES is same size as XP-L? I only assumed larger due to the pad.
HDS has adopted the LH351d 5000k as its next High CRI offering.
It produces 300 lumens in an HDS
the sw45k produces 200 lumens in an HDS
so the LH351d is 50% brighter than the sw45k
equivalent to one hop on the HDS dial.
the LH351d is a 9050 LED with tint above the BBL
the sw45k is a 9080 (more red), with tint below the BBL
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