✅【 F I R S T 】Astrolux Diving Flashlight DL01 ✺ INTEREST LIST

Lux-Perpetua

AdrianM

Skylight

Thanks for your opinions! :THUMBS-UP:

P.S.: I hope that this flashlight can be successfully used on the surface.

Not sure if it’s worth considering but some (optional) beacon light in the switch button or a phosphorescent / fluorescent GITD band might be useful if the diver suddenly drops his light while exploring a dark cavern.

If you are in a dark cave, then your flashlight is already on. )))
And if you drop it, then it will be visible.

Hi

For diving in low visibility, like here NJ shore I would like throwy beam with not too much spill. Visibility is usually about 15-25ft (5-8m) and lot of sediment floating around. Maybe TIR would be even better. 21700 is good for battery, about 1000lm output is enough. Two modes about 40% and 100%. CRI does not matter for me too much.
If you could fit blue or green laser operated by second momentary switch for signaling it would be useful.

For diving in clear water (Caribbean reef like) there are two scenarios.
Day time when light is used to look into all kind of holes and night.
At night you may want some more spill to see more around you.

That being said for me that would be a backup light.
Most of my diving is in Caribbean like water. And I think there is a lot of people that dive occasionally when on vacation and would like to have some photos from dive.
People who dive often in the area where they live (no issue with amount of gear because of luggage restrictions and such) are whole different customer group.
Pretty much on every dive I have a camera (small one since I don’t feel a need for professional setup with arms, dedicated light and such).
Because of that my most used light is Big Blue (something like VTL2600P – older version don’t remember model and if it was ever written on the light is gone now)
With that I can use only one light, using central LED with reflector like the lights above and have photo/video light as needed.
I have camera in one hand, light in another, with separate video light I would need to switch between them potentially using BSD pocket so not used one is not just hanging around on lanyard.
Personally I don’t find a use of red LEDs on such light. If anything I would prefer royal blue (bio-luminescence) but that just make UI much more complex.
Again 1000lm for spot is good, higher CRI not required, color preferably in 5000K range. Two modes 40, 100
For video two modes are ok for me, currently my light has 3 and I never use lowest mode. 40% and 100% sound about right. Hi CRI here also about 5000K. High efficiency COB or (edit:no COB, reflector is in the middle) multiple LEDs, more than 5000lm on high
For that one since it needs more juice I think I would be ok with 2 battery setup 18650 or 21700 side by side (head will be larger anyway) and personally I prefer it to be somewhat thicker rather than longer (easier to fit in BCD pocket, some pockets are pretty shallow and long light will stick out)
Maybe two switches to operate both modes separately or even turn them both at the same time.

General

  1. No current passing thru the body, internal tube for one battery light or with 2 batteries side by side holder will solve that.
  2. Thermal stepdown is ok but no timer of any kind (like some lights), thermal stepdown will help if light is used outside of water or turned on accidently , in water as long as there is good path between body and pill (LED, driver) there is no problem
  3. Cut-off at about 2.8-3V for unprotected batteries maybe with some warning flash when close to it.
  4. Good lanyard attachment.
  5. I like USB charging, make sure is waterproof, i.e., does not leak into battery compartment if some water gets under cap. Would be better if light did not need to be open at all for charging (even if is slower) but that may be too much to ask. For small light most likely not feasible, for larger (this spot/video combo) maybe wireless charging (2 side by side body may be flat but that would require it to be non-metal, e.g., Delrin), maybe two exposed salt water resistant contact, reed switch inside and magnet in plug (so they are not electrically connected while underwater)
  6. Stainless still bezel, smooth, no crenelation (I sometimes use light to bang on air tank, aluminum bezel gets damaged :frowning:)
  7. 2h+ runtime on high
  8. With 2 (or more batteries setup) it would be better to have them in parallel but I know it would be easier to work with higher voltage. Can be in series for 2 batteries.

So, for me there is plenty of these “backup” lights but if you can make that second and price is reasonable (I think less than $100 but may depend) I’m buying at least 2.

In, any info about the modes?
It would be great if there was no mode cycling, just last mode memory.
Long press to change mode.

I agree regard use internal contact tube to avoid body corrosion in salt water,anyway still small compact size.
I also like have Red body color,simple ramping driver and triple/quad sst20 2700k(JA3).
But when for a small AA/14500 diving light?

The inner contact tube will not be in this flashlight. It's already in production.

Perhaps in other diving models of Astrolux.

active

Hi Fin17
I see you put me on the list. I never said I’m interested, I’m not if this is what it is. You asked about opinion of divers so I answered. I wrote if you make second one I wrote about I will be interested.
Also we still don’t know what kind of user interface it has.

+1 smooth reflector, even slightly cloudy water makes OP poor choice

  • 1 thermal not timed
    I rarely use anything other than high mode so 21700 best
    Strobe is often used to signal other divers
    Extra O rings

arek98

got it

Interested depending on price. I agree SMO might be better for underwater use. I haven’t use any diving lights for scuba dives but they’re also very useful for wet caving.

Fin17 can you tell us what UI it has?

Interested

Interested. Thanks!

Carrying a current through the body is not an issue. The issue is a potential difference on the exterior of the light only. Otherwise, yes, damage to the anodization will result in corrosion just because of the nature of salt water.

Please refer to this thread for reference.

Samples are tested...

Interested

Guys, we’re familiar with mateminco/astrolux quality control aren’t we? Remember the FT03S’s reflector and other issues? Remember how the HL01’s 18350 tube didn’t properly fit many 18350s? Do you really want a diving light from them?

didn’t have any problems with the many lights I bought from them