KR4 4x E21A 3500K
D4v2 SST-20 2x4000K + 2x2700K
SST-20 mix seems superior, surprising. Less tint shift, higher output, r9 vs r12 break even. More optics choices too.
You’re not wrong. That is one way to do it… and it’s basically how the aux LEDs work. But as noted, the output is not constant; it varies with battery voltage. That’s not really an issue for aux LEDs, but it’s kind of a problem for the main LEDs.
I hope this image explains the idea, and why I want the 20mA channel to be regulated instead of just a resistor. It’s meant to smooth out the ramp between steps, but the ramp will only be smooth if the extra channel has a consistent slope.
Basically, the point is to make it look like the “4.0V” bottom center image… no matter what voltage the battery is.
It’s a different method than how FET+7135 or FET+5A works. With those, the lower power channel ramps up to full power and then stays on while the higher power channel ramps on top. But I’m thinking of doing a totally different method where the lowest power channel does miniature ramps between each step of the higher power channel.
I’m not sure if it’s a good idea, because it’s more difficult to do correctly… but it sure would be nice to have a truly smooth and stable ramp all the way down to firefly levels.
Also not sure if I should suggest it, because it means I’d have to rewrite a bunch of code. Would be nice once it’s done though.
On a lighthearted note, I just placed an order for a KR4 Ti. E21A mule, 2200k.
I can hardly wait!
I’m now up to
4 D4V2 Ti (various flavors)
2 D4V2 Brass (XPL-Hi V3 & E21A)
2 KR1 (cyan, XPL-Hi V3 & Osram W2
3 KR4 (black, cyan and Ti, all E21a)
1 D18 (black, SST-20 4000k)
Damn Hank! Great products.
Ok, I think I understand what you’re suggesting - the low channel tops out around the lowest stable level of the 5A channel.
I was thinking of using a 1x7135 channel full range, then either switching on the 5A channel in parallel as is done in 1+N x 7135 drivers. Alternately, if the different driver types don’t play well in parallel, then once the first channel reaches 350mA, the next step turns off the 7135 and turns on the 5A driver at the next logical step above 350mA.
But I hadn’t thought through what that would imply for the ramp resolution or scaling.
SKV89, thank you for sharing all those measurements.
I was under the assumption that 16x E21A mules would be limited to 7.5A CC only, and there would be no direct drive, because it isn’t safe. I am surprised that direct drive is enabled. Are you sure it is safe to use Molicel P26A for this?
D4v2 SST-20 2x4000K + 2x2700K seems really good.
How hard would it be to implement multiple drivers into a singular light say an Emisar D18? My use would be controlling pairs of emitters separately.
Actually I like the E21A 3500K better in person than the 2x4000K + 2x2700K. The tint is more uniform and rosier.
With 16x direct drive should not be a problem. I’m guessing it would push each E21A to about 1A or a bit more.
I have two, and both show it to the same extent.
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I appreciate the response, TK.
I cleaned the contacts, and actually very lightly sanded them to make sure there’s nothing blocking the connection surface, but the flicker is still there. Now, when I say flicker, it’s very subtle. It’s only really noticeable when you’re not moving the beam.
I tried varying the floor from 1/150 to 3/150, and the flicker is evident on 1/150 and 2/150, as expected.
When moving it to 3/150, though, it’s as if the very low level flicker from 1/150 and 2/150 is still there, but is masked by the higher brightness of 3/150. I hope that makes sense.
It’s tolerable, I guess, but it’s also annoying when I notice it, and just knowing that one of my favorite lights isn’t stable at moonlight drives me mildly nuts since I use it every night.
Do you think there’s anything on the code side that could be done to eliminate this? I’m not familiar with the coding at a hardware level.
Thanks, again.
Edit: Would increasing the clock speed at level 3/150 make a difference? Or, maybe just disabling dynamic underclocking would be a reasonable test.
Might just be a flaky 7135, either the part or the reflow.
Yes, it makes sense… and is quite possibly what’s happening. There’s going to be a little bit of ripple. Let’s say there’s 1 unit of ripple. At a brightness of 2, it’ll be pretty noticeable as it ripples from 1 to 3. But at a brightness of 100, it’s not noticeable since it only goes from 99 to 101.
Lowering the clock speed threshold level might help a little, or it might not… it’s hard to tell without trying it on affected hardware, and I don’t have affected hardware.
Regardless, I sent Hank an idea for how to improve the low levels. I also posted it here a few comments ago. I don’t know if it’ll happen, but it’s at least being discussed.
Whatever BOD setting you had me change on the MTN FET+1 fixed it for me.
Is that what you are suggesting here too? Why not have someone try it?
Have anyone flash your D4V2 E21A with this “anduril.2020-07-08.emisar-d4v2.5-nofet.hex” firmware? Feedback appreciated!
Received my D4V2 Black with SS Bezel and Nichia E21A 4500K
What a beautiful light
4 Emisar D4 in comparison
The light comes with that firmware. 15 clicks from off and it will flash you the date in the form 20200708. Short flashes for 0.
Mine came with 20200427 slow rainbow considering to update with the latest available.
I’ll most likely test switching off dynamic underclocking or lowering the threshold, but it will probably be a week or two. I’ll be sure to report back.
Just got my KR1, but just isn’t able to turn it on. I’ve tightened both head and tail of the light as much as I could and cleaned the sleeve from burrs using paper. It seems to be doing the factory reset just like this:
Using Samsung 30Q flat top. Help!
If it’s doing the factory reset, I’d say the inner tube is making at least some contact.
Did you also clean the contact surfaces (ends of tubes)? Generally, I clean them with alcohol on a cotton swab, but the contact surfaces of one of my KR4 tubes had to be very lightly sanded to fix a connection problem.
Also, on the KR’s I think it’s best to carefully tighten the head first. Once you get it working reliably, leave the head alone for battery changes.