Thank you. Well, I donāt know, especially due to the fact that the Boker UT hruns on ball bearings and would need some fitting washers to fill that gap first.
It doesnāt matter enough to me to search for bronze washers.
Iād look for them on ebay - phosphor(ous) bronze washers or at shops like usaknifemaker.com
As much as possible we should forget those guys that misused a Asian sign for the sun and prosperity and good luck.
+ a slew of other meanings depending on the cloture you focus in on, but those Germans once misusing it we should for get about, and only pull them out of the history books when someone need a scare.
Swabs , Chronovore: Thank you! I was having a hard time choosing between the full black washed and the dual tone version. Aesthetics won over practicality.
Fortunately this harlequin version solved my āwhich handle color should I go for?ā problem.
Practiality? Seriously? You own like how many knives? Maybe not a Great Gross, but definitely a Small Gross.
Do you ever make your knives dirty or even scratch them?
In the beginning I liked stonewashed/blackwashed blades until I learned that on a user some battle scars make it look ārealā.
And honestly, a well made satin grind isso much nicer to look at, not to speak about the fact that if a blade is available in satin/stonewashed the tumbled ones are usually the āBā grade blades. Coating and tumbling is very good to hide imperfect grinds, Iāve seen that the best on my Kershaw/Emerson CQC-5K.
What cheap piece oācrap, Iām glad I got it in exchange for material instead for real money (except shipping).
But I admit, itās looking great with leather handles.
Iād say best for rust prevention would be a polished blade like they do it with carbon steel since ages, second best a very fine satin grind.
Stonewashing would be good to hide rust spots that already appeared, just like on Kershawās bead blasted āstainlessā blades.
So thatās the only complaint on my Green Thon Mouse3 that itās only available with a blasted D2 blade instead of a simple satin one.
Itās a work knife so when I see spots Iāll maybe stonewash it.
A blackwash (a stonewashed black coated blade) could be good against rust but it could still rust on the rubbed off areas.
If I can choose between 14C28N and D2 Iād always go for the Sandvik if itās for food prep or stays pretty much unused in my pantās pockets.
For a real user I donāt mind D2, my TwoSun TS51 shows some spots, too, though, I didnāt clean it well under the scale enough close to the pivot.
Is it smart to use a semi-stainless steel knife as a travel knife instead of say, a fixed knife?
Maybe not, but itās so much fun how the thick and scary sharp blade flies open and nearly cuts my finger when I close it.
Iād almost wish for washers instead of ball bearings. Almost. If it wasnāt so much fn the way it is
I seem to have misplaced my trusty pocket pal this weekend, and i do not like that so i have just done something about that
Nothing big in size or prize, at least the price part i can not carry these days, the budget just took a major dive off a cliff into a puddle of acid rain.
There is a reason a pair of pants have 2 pockets at least, one pocket for the keys and one pocket for a knife.
I almost bought one when they had it on saleā¦ but the clip issue kind of lost it for me. Still, quite a handsome knife & the clip design is an interesting novel idea (that I think they couldāve done better).