Interested for the LED 
I doubt I’d use SOS and strobe modes.
Different blink intervals and intensities may be useful when using this red light with a diffuser as a Rear Light on a bicycle. Too complicated?
I would one with Ramping UI and E21A
Not even remotely. I'm open for all kinds of suggestions in order to get SP10R as good as it gets. Can you please elaborate what kind of blink intervalls were useful?
It seems there are two opinions here: Those who more or less want to get rid of any strobe modes and those who have very precise ideas what strobe modes are good for a (deep red) EDC light. One thing in life is for sure: You can't please everyone. For now, I will leave things as they were ever since, i.e. triple click will get you those three classic strobes ("angry buzz", S-O-S and Beacon mode). I look forward to seeing further feedback.
Agreed but unfortunately, that's not gonna happen in this thread. ;-)
Maybe have two mode groups - one with only steady mode and one with only blinky modes?
Just out of curiosity as you said "Pass."... (please don't take any offence)
So, just in case SP10R had a (hidden) SOS strobe mode, that would be a reason for you to not buy the light? IMHO, if we once get to the point to decide whether SP10R used strobe modes or not without having any clear majority, I'd rather stick to the plan to have these modes hidden somewhere for those who really need them or just want them.
Actually, that could make things too complicated both for Sofirn and for customers.
Currently, I'm torn between those three options...
- No strobes at all
- Classic strobes via triple click (buzzing - SOS - Beacon)
- Specially BLF-designed strobes (e.g. 20Hz bike strobe, ... )
OK
I wish smoother knurling for their lights,it have better appeal instead of rough
Nah, no offense. Call me names, question my parentage, I don’t care, as it’s all just 1s and 0s…
It would have to be really hidden. If I can get to it even accidentally, it’s going to annoy me. And I’m all SOSed out. That’s got to be the most annoying blinky mode there is. Maybe if you’re stranded after an avalanche, then you’d need SOS mode, but there’s no normal need for it. Worse, I associate SOS mode with craplights like you see advertised on teevee by former pilots.
So yeah, really hidden, as in buried deep where you couldn’t find it even if you tried. Okay, wishful thinking, but at least if you had to go into turbo, then doubleclick to get to blinkies (starting with strobe, I imagine), then another doubleclick to get to SOS, maybe.
But if it’s as easy as a tripleclick, (between doubleclick for strobe and quadclick for lockout), guaranteed I’ll eventually hit it by accident and get pissed off. No, seriously, I’m so SOSed out it’s not funny, it would piss me off. I’m just sick of that mode being stuffed into flooders and throwers and lanterns and AAA lights and 10,000lm lights and pistol lights and every light in creation. Ugh. :confounded:
I discovered that Skilhunt (at least in the M200) has a “sticky” blinky mode. Defaults to strobe, but if you set it to beacon then go back to normal modes, next time you go into blinky mode it’ll be beacon, not strobe. That at least can be handy.
But in general, I don’t think there’s anything wrong with a light that has one dedicated purpose, and doesn’t try to do 100 things. So a red light that has firefly/low/high would be quite enough for me. Don’t want strobes, SOSes, lightning modes, other idiocy that you’d never ever ever used with any normal red light.
As long as it’s a parachute that doesn’t weigh anything or take up any extra space, and most importantly, does not deploy when I don’t want it to, I don’t see a problem.
Based on the reported tailcap current, it seems like the low forward voltage meant the driver is able to push a lot of current through the LED for a AAA light. In terms of battery performance, it might have been better to dial it back a bit. However, if the same applies to an SST-20 in the SP10S body, it should also be pretty impressive for a deep red light.
You sure it’s the SP10S and not SP10B? Firefly on my S is 0.5 lm, B is less than 0.1 lm (basically only useful for seeing as far as your nose).
A slow blink for being seen: flash on for about 300ms and then off for 1s with around 50 lumens to avoid blinding drivers and other rosd/path users.
A pulse blink for really being noticed: flash on for 300ms and off 300ms two times at 50 lumens and then the third time flash on for 300ms and off for 300ms at 100 lumens.
I’m not sure on the exact timing but I hope that gives some perspective.
And hey, that’s fine. I just said that I’ll pass, maybe others will, too, but I’m not holding a gun to anyone’s head.
I got my WK30 which does red just fine. And if I really wanted to, I could whip up a few red S2+ shorties, too.
But as you pointed out (and as I’ve said /ad nauseam/), code costs nothing, which is why so many lights have so much useless crap stuffed into the UI, even if the hardware’s lacking. Just check what’s sold on Amazon…
And that’s why I’m keeping my ’B. It’s perfect for just (barely) lighting up my clock at night without jarring me awake.
Higher than that, I’d call it moonlight and not firefly, but people tend to use those interchangeably.
Oh, no, the truly most annoying blinky mode, as documented here previously, is
S …. O ……S……O….S….
https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Abudgetlightforum.com+S+O+S+O+S+O+blink
That’s what I use it for too :laughing:
To me, firefly is 0.5 lm or lower, moon is around 1 lm, any higher is just low.
SOS is so 70’s :disguised_face:
Probably don’t need another AA, but will go for it anyway.
I’m in for a new Sofirn, even though my SP10S is still ‘new’.
ARH
Interested!
Please make it simple to use in complete darkness.