Which switch type do you guys like for quick on/off bursts of light?

Sorry about that, not the clearest I know.

I liked the tail-cap switch of the Stylus Pro until I tried the twisty of the pd10…The twisty switch just seems like it’s perfectly placed when I pull the light out of my pant pocket.
And for this reason I was thinking that a forward-placed switch would be just as handy, as long as it also works as a momentary too.

right :slight_smile:

So I take it you tend to use two hands to turn it on, being a twisty then?

Afraid I don’t know of anything compact with a side switch that allows momentary.

I think FourSevens have got a rifle bolt style switch that looks like it might be interesting, but you don’t half have to pay a big premium.

There are quite a few AA style twisty lights out there. I find that most of them can be turned on/off with one hand, if the threads have been greased. Most of them are single AA or 14500. Not many side switch lights of that size that are any good or dependable.

If you only ever want a "burst of light", then you can make any clicky switch into a momentary one. It takes a little bit of tear down, but not much in the way of knowledge or tools.

this, reading this thread I'm not sure the OP knows the difference between side switch/forward clicky/reverse clicky.

Reverse clickys are the only way to go with a multI mode light. Forward clickys are sort of hard to use. It is nice that you can get momentary on with forward clickys, but it's really not that hard to click on/click off and the ease of mode switching and not get confused when switching modes with reverse Clickys make them way more user friendly.

Side switches are pretty nice too but I don't like that you have to turn the light on in the rear then switch hand positions to change modes. working in a well lit area with shadows that need lit up having the light start on high is what you need, I am in that situation during the daytime but at night it really sucks when the light fires in high and ruins your "night vision" for a couple seconds. For me it's just as easy to have a no memory light with reverse clicky that starts on low with a full press and a half click or two later if I chose I can use high mode.

working on machinery (like I do sometimes) you really want a brighter light, go for a 1,000 lumen light, try a cheap 18650 straight tube light and see if you like it just go for a smaller one like the convoy S lights...nothing less than 1,000 lumens will be good enough after you do, well worth it And only slightly bigger than your 20x100mm specs. Like I said the trade off in lumen output easily worth it!

All the side switch lights I know of have an electronic switch, but one of these might work for you. Here are a few of the AA variety that only have a side switch. There are several more that have a tail switch for on/off and a side for changing modes, but I did not include those:

Solarstorm SC01
Xtar WK41
Thrunite Neutron 2A V2
Sunwayman C15A
Olight S15
Zebralight SC52

One problem with an electronic switch is that it requires a small amount of current at all times, so if just left by itself for a long time they will drain a battery. One way around that is by ‘locking out’ the battery when not in use, if the threads of a flashlight are anodized then 1/8 turn of the head or tailcap will break the connection to the battery.

I guess I think of a forward clicky as being used for quick bursts of light. What you’d use if you wanted to do a message in morse code for instance. This wouldn’t work well with a multi-mode light because the fast clicks would cause constant undesired mode changes.

Sure you’d get those mode changes with a reverse clicky too. Reverse clickies with multimodes are no better for that application than the forward clicky.
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Regarding accidental pocket activation:

Reverse clickies are safer. If you light shifts around in your pocket and the button partially depresses it won’t turn on. Instead the button has to fully click before you get power. In contrast, with a forward clicky even a partial press will turn the light on. And depending on what else you have in your pocket and what position your leg is in, the button might stay in half-press for an extended period.

The switch and housing design can correct for these flaws. For instance, the forward clicky in the Coast HP1 is fairly stiff and completely recessed. Chances of accidental pocket activation are almost non-existent. In contrast, the tailcap in the Lenslight mini is rounded with the button protruding. There’s no shroud around the button protecting the forward clicky and only minimal pressure is required for activation. Chances of accidental activation are very high.
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My preferred switch type for quick on-off use:
Personally, if I wanted a light for quick on-off use I’d probably go with an electronic side or tailcap switch. Electronic switches are quiet and usually require less pressure than mechanical switches. They’re also mechanically much simpler and the switch should in theory last much longer. The best choice on the market for a non-tactical pocket light is the Zebralight SC62W.

Or, if I was modding a light, I’d use an electronic switch with DrJones Mokkadrv firmware.

I’m able to turn the light on single-handed as I pull it out of my pocket.

This just might be the understatement of the year. :slight_smile:
I thought there was only a tail-cap switch, like my Streamlight Stylus Pro, a twisty, like my Fenix PD10, and then a tail-cap type of switch that is mounted to the side, towards the front, like an Olight S10 for example.

Appreciate all of the recommendations, I definitely should find a good light among them.

well, forward clicky switches are the simplest and most commonly applied.

The best switch for quick bursts of light is a tactical switch that requires pressure to remain on. That is, press for on, twist for constant. They are typically found on Surefires and some P60 lights.

first, don’t really grasp this forum site so entering question as a reply. my new sk68 kept in car, went to use it and battery corroded entire inside of light. so need a new switch, can i get one or should i just throw light away. light works after cleaning but switch does not. thanks. oh, was original battery, light blue.

No guarantee of compatibility since there are so many factories making clones.

Welcome to BLF.

Don’t throw it away. If the unit itself is fine, you can always buy another one (or more) and keeps this as a backup. If one dies just swap the button to the working light.

First, welcome to BLF.

Second, to answer your implied question about how to start a thread/ask a question, here’s how to start a new thread. Depending on where you start from, make your way into one of the sub forums; usually done by clicking on “Forum” on the upper left of any page.

Pick whichever one fits your topic/question and click on that.

Now that you are in a specific sub forum, click the “new topic” button in the upper right of that page. Add a title to the “subject line” and say or ask whatever you wish in the “body” box. When you are done, hit “save”.

That’s pretty much it. If you have questions, about this or anything, please ask. Everyone here but me is a friendly and helpful.

Also, you may want to check out this page for other how-to type questions you may have.

Third, you can indeed get a new switch for that light.

Forth, If it was a name brand cell that leaked and you still have it, contact the battery manufacturer and they will, typically, replace the light.

And, finally, Alkaline batteries are crap leaks are common. Do yourself a favor and invest in some Eneloop rechargeable. The cost is modest and the benefits are huge.

Switches.
for on/off and short bursts.
I like the sliding on/off Magnetic switches on Divers lights.
Followed by the clicky side switch. On/Off/Hold.

a side mounted forward-clicky would be best

you prob want something not controlled by firmware - delays are annoying

for as little as i use lights like this (which is almost never) - i like the FW3A, because i always have it, it has a mode for that, and it is very useful for all other lighting purposes.

if i had the ideal light for morse code type situations, i still would not carry it since i never do that

i might have it actually, i have a thorfire ramping light that has a side and a tail switch, the tail switch is forward clicky
but i find the UI very tiresome and annoying

wle

Best would be a FC tailswitch, like on the P30 or L2M hosts if you prefer drop-ins (1-mode, N-modes, whatever).

Something like a GTmicro or GTmini with diffusion film would also work in momentary mode (5 clicks to start, untwist/retwist tailcap to go back to regular modes).

Nice score if you can find ’em, but the Nitefox UT20 has a dual-switch setup, sideswitch for setting the mode, FC tailswitch to let you get momentary bursts in that mode.

Any light, especially throwy ones, you can slap on some diffusion film to make it a flooder and get a nice wiiiiiide area of light in dark dingy cabinets and the like. No need to be blinded by overly-bright hotspots washing out everything else.

Sofirn SP31and Wowtac A1S are 2 with FC tail switches. Set the side switch to your desired level then half press the tail for momentary burst. Make for good rifle/shotgun lights. Mount them within thumbs reach and no need for a remote switch. So far mine have held up to the recoil but I don’t shoot much with them on.

i guess forward clicky without much firmware slowing it down

i would say anduril, though it is firmware, it has a mode for that
and it does so many other things it is hard to say no
FW3A is a good vehicle for anduril
small
bright
well made
or the other versions FW1A might be one of them

wle

My favorite solution is an electronic switch + Anduril 2 firmware because it allows for super easy momentary turbo activation. I use that all the time.

I also really like forward clickies on lights with no mode memory. They allow me to tap-tap-tap to get to the mode I want SUPER fast without having to fully click the light on, then I can just release when I’m done. They also allow for totally silent operation.

Surefire gas-pedal type switch a la EDCL2T. Press for low momentary, press harder for high momentary. Twist for constant on in low, twist further for constant on in high. It’s one of my all-time favorite user interfaces. If they would come out with an 18650 version with an LED that wasn’t awful it would become my edc in a heartbeat.