It's weird, but I like owning lights worked on by by BLF members. I guess that's why I jumped on OL's 3D. Besides being killer good looking, it's Justin's light so I like it. Same with my C88 and F15; the fact that they're among the brightest lights I have is awesome but Erik made them that way so, they're different. Probably what some people like about Haikus and Spys. Foy can't afford that so . . .
I wonder how many XP-G/XM-L Match Mod Minis you could sell? Before I fried my SST-50, I put it in my MMMM with 2 x 14500. Come to think about it; that's how I did fry it. Anyway, during the 30 seconds it lived, it was about the brightest damn MiniMag you've ever seen.
Yes, very nice!
I noticed that you bought some aspheric lenses. If you mount a XR-E on a copper heatsink with the little pedestal as in the picture above and then put that under an aspheric in addition to being able to drive it hard the beam should be improved since there is nothing else on the same plane as the emitter (due to the pedestal).
Everything else would be out of focus other than the emitter.
I’m curious as to what project you have in mind for the aspherics
Did something like this with an MC-E on a brass pill a few years ago...
What you can't see in the pic is that the legs are bent up, then there's kapton tape beneath them. Had to use flux to get a good solder joint on them, then thermal epoxied the wires in place and to aid in heat transfer.
hi
just looking in cheapbatterypacks.com and they have zinc flux and solder designed for soldering aluminum.
has anyone tried using solder to flow an emitter onto an aluminum heatsink, using procedures as above and the appropriate flux/solder??
YOUR THOUGHTS / COMMENTS PLEASE !!
thanks
Bowhunter,
I can’t comment on the zinc solder/flux…haven’t used it yet. As long as the solder doesn’t require a much higher temperature to flow it may work. Again though, I haven’t really looked into it.
UPz,
Thanks for the compliment!
TechJunkie,
Nice job on the MCE, but considering how poorly brass conducts heat vs copper or even aluminum did you notice much of an improvement?
Thanks for posting this GREAT guide Match. Awesome work as always.
Now after reading, I have a question… Is a good idea to use thermal glue (like FUJIK) instead of flux and heat? I’m a bit worried about burning the emitter and with glue it is easier for me.
@ Techjunkie: Great work. Did you post those pictures around 2009 or something? I recall seing something like that back then.
@ Match: Thanks to your guide and results here I have now completely gone over to XML on copper based PCB's. Just wish something like that was available for the XR-E R2's that I'm so fond of :-( I hate filing away on those contact pads!.
Thanks!! I’m going to try it, but after making mistakes I’m asking another thing…
Is it necessary to have that little raised part to place the LED?
Is it better that way or can I make a flat surface to mount the LED?