E21A 2700K, 2000K back in stock.

2729 posts / 0 new
Last post
Yokiamy
Yokiamy's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 8 min ago
Joined: 10/18/2016 - 15:47
Posts: 2834
Location: Netherlands

I am really looking forward to a light even larger than a K1 SBT90 but with a triple 21700 setup.

Personally i think it will perform even better due to an even larger reflector, good heatsinking, thermal mass and a higher energy supply

WTB: Jetbeam TCR-1 or Sunwayman V10R Ti

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 52 sec ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 4238
Location: The Motor City

Yokiamy wrote:
I am really looking forward to a light even larger than a K1 SBT90 but with a triple 21700 setup.

Personally i think it will perform even better due to an even larger reflector, good heatsinking, thermal mass and a higher energy supply


Or for even more of an energy supply, a triple 26800 battery set-up… Big Smile http://budgetlightforum.com/node/73528

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

MoreLumens
MoreLumens's picture
Online
Last seen: 10 min 11 sec ago
Joined: 10/25/2019 - 07:08
Posts: 1219
Location: Finland

Yokiamy wrote:
I am really looking forward to a light even larger than a K1 SBT90 but with a triple 21700 setup.

Personally i think it will perform even better due to an even larger reflector, good heatsinking, thermal mass and a higher energy supply

Maybe also 3-5 led flooder using same 3×21700 setup, just swap heads etc.

lightdecay
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 days ago
Joined: 06/17/2019 - 08:55
Posts: 421
Location: U.S.A.

D18 sized (but slightly longer due to reflectors), triple 21700, quad SBT-90.2 could be amazing.

Like this one, but better:
https://skylumen.com/collections/one-off/products/one-off-eagtac-mx30l4c...

lazerEagle
lazerEagle's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 27 min ago
Joined: 05/20/2020 - 21:11
Posts: 201
Location: Australia

Any update on a new KR4 clip?

The more I think about it the more I like the idea of the clip being built into the tail cap. Similar to this but deep carry.

This would make it a simple tail-cap replacement option. Similar to benchmade knife clips it could be screwed on or it could just be permanently fixed and you change the tail-cap to add/remove the clip..

ref

- the best way to predict the future is to create it -

Souichirou
Souichirou's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 04/05/2019 - 21:32
Posts: 573

lazerEagle wrote:
Any update on a new KR4 clip?

The more I think about it the more I like the idea of the clip being built into the tail cap. Similar to this but deep carry.

This would make it a simple tail-cap replacement option. Similar to benchmade knife clips it could be screwed on or it could just be permanently fixed and you change the tail-cap to add/remove the clip..

ref

I’ll worry about the clip once my KR4 gets to Canada, been having a blast with the KR1 no issues with the clip for me….. Though then again I’m pretty sure the ship that my package is on is lost at sea along with its crew maybe taken by pirates….. 128 days and counting hope is fleeting….

Lightenzaza
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 35 min ago
Joined: 01/15/2020 - 13:31
Posts: 126
Location: Qc,Can.
hope is fleeting…. Are you of the 2020-05-22 15:58 CAYVR / Despatched to overseas like me ? Got my kr4ti 2 days ago and it took under 2 weeks .

Caught a sickness . I found out i'm not alone .
p12gt,tn12v4(nw),s1(3d),tk15,s2+(sst-40),pd35tac,fd65,tk35 ue 2018,d4v2,kr4,fw3a(1a),sp31v2.0,sp32av2.0,sp36,sp40,lt1,sp31uv,sc31pro

Hank Wang
Online
Last seen: 7 min 28 sec ago
Joined: 10/19/2011 - 10:28
Posts: 533
Location: China

Hank Wang wrote:
Dear Canada customers.

Many of our orders shipped on March and April to Canada are stuck in these two status below,

2020-05-22 16:08 CAYVR / Despatched to overseas
2020-05-10 16:05:00 CAYVR / Despatched to overseas

According to our experience, they are not lost, they only need longer time to arrive.
We fully understand your frustration. If you think you can not wait more, please file the paypal dispute, otherwise, please kindly wait longer.

We have lately changed the shipping method to Canada from Middle of April, and the shipping is much faster now.
Thanks for your support.

Some recent update regarding this situation,

All the orders stuck at this status before have all been delivered at the end of July.
“2020-05-10 16:05:00 CAYVR / Despatched to overseas”

But those packages below are still stuck there, I can’t tell when they will move,
but as far as I can tell they will move at any time of this month
“2020-05-22 16:08 CAYVR / Despatched to overseas”

And they are the only packages to Canada which are still stuck on the way, I’m sorry for the inconvenience.

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

Hank Wang
Online
Last seen: 7 min 28 sec ago
Joined: 10/19/2011 - 10:28
Posts: 533
Location: China

For example, this is one of the package stuck at 2020-5-10, there is no movement from 2020-5-10 to 2020-7-24

2020-07-29 16:31:00
/ Item delivered
2020-07-29 11:17:00/ Send item out for physical delivery
2020-07-29 06:42:00/ Receive item at delivery office
2020-07-28 18:43:00/ Receive item at sorting centre
2020-07-27 01:00:00/ Receive item at sorting centre
2020-07-26 17:14:00/ Transit to Destination Processing Facility
2020-07-25 05:01:00/ Held by Customs at Destination
2020-07-25 05:01:00/ Arrival at Processing Center
2020-07-24 23:25:00/ Arrival at Destination
2020-05-10 16:05:00CAYVR / Despatched to overseas
2020-03-31 23:30:59HK / Hand over to airline.
2020-03-31 14:54:00/ Information Received
2020-03-31 14:18:37Domestic Air Cargo Termina,Shenzhen,China / Depart from facility to service provider.
2020-03-28 19:07:05Hongqiao,Shanghai,China / 4PX picked up shipment.
2020-03-28 19:07:05
Hongqiao,Shanghai,China / Shipment arrived at facility and measured.

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

Souichirou
Souichirou's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 04/05/2019 - 21:32
Posts: 573

Lightenzaza wrote:
hope is fleeting….
Are you of the 2020-05-22 15:58 CAYVR / Despatched to overseas like me ? Got my kr4ti 2 days ago and it took under 2 weeks .

YUP ! My light is probably chilling with yours =P
DarkShot
DarkShot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 7 hours ago
Joined: 02/11/2019 - 16:15
Posts: 109
Location: Canada

There’s several of us!

Even with the extended wait, I still look forward to getting my KR4 when it finally arrives. Been waiting since early April to get it.

lightdecay
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 days ago
Joined: 06/17/2019 - 08:55
Posts: 421
Location: U.S.A.

It looks like E21A 2200K is no longer an option on the website. It had a good tint below BBL, I hope it will be back or (even better) be replaced with E21A 2000K.

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 4231
Location: Scotland

Anyone with a KR4 experienced this problem?

I received a KR4 Ti today.
Everything appears to function as it should except thermal stepdown.

Once the light gets hot it does not step down, instead the light shuts off completely, including the AUX LEDs.
It feels like the outside of the light reaches around 65°C – 75°C.

When the light has cooled down a little after a minute or so it comes back to life, the AUX LEDs come back on and the light can be operated normally until it heats up again then it shuts off.

I have tried resetting the light and thermally calibrating but it is still the same problem.

It looks like the thermal stepdown is not working properly and so the driver is heating up then triggering a thermal protection in the driver, if it has such a safeguard?

Scallywag
Scallywag's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 14 hours ago
Joined: 01/11/2018 - 22:23
Posts: 1734
Location: Ohio, United States

CRX wrote:
Anyone with a KR4 experienced this problem?

I received a KR4 Ti today.
Everything appears to function as it should except thermal stepdown.

Once the light gets hot it does not step down, instead the light shuts off completely, including the AUX LEDs.
It feels like the outside of the light reaches around 65°C – 75°C.

When the light has cooled down a little after a minute or so it comes back to life, the AUX LEDs come back on and the light can be operated normally until it heats up again then it shuts off.

I have tried resetting the light and thermally calibrating but it is still the same problem.

It looks like the thermal stepdown is not working properly and so the driver is heating up then triggering a thermal protection in the driver, if it has such a safeguard?

My normal questions don’t apply, since you’re you and you know better. However, could you post the firmware version? My understanding is a 15-click from off should blink it out in YYYY-MM-DD format (though I don’t own anything with a new enough version to do this).

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 12 hours 9 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10643
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
CRX wrote:
Anyone with a KR4 experienced this problem?

It sounds like the sensor may need to be calibrated. Have you tried doing a factory reset with the light at room temperature?

It also sounds like the battery might be getting overloaded and shutting down until it cools off. Something is causing it to disconnect power, wait, then reconnect power.

I don’t know for sure that’s what is happening, but the issues described could be caused by bad calibration and a cell which isn’t strong enough to sustain full power. Recalibrating it could probably fix one issue and avoid the other.

double_r76
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 15 hours ago
Joined: 08/04/2020 - 17:27
Posts: 12
Location: SATX
lightdecay wrote:
It looks like E21A 2200K is no longer an option on the website. It had a good tint below BBL, I hope it will be back or (even better) be replaced with E21A 2000K.

Oh no! It looks like I waited too long to place my order… patiently waiting to see if it comes back.

-Randy

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 4231
Location: Scotland
ToyKeeper wrote:
CRX wrote:
Anyone with a KR4 experienced this problem?

It sounds like the sensor may need to be calibrated. Have you tried doing a factory reset with the light at room temperature?

It also sounds like the battery might be getting overloaded and shutting down until it cools off. Something is causing it to disconnect power, wait, then reconnect power.

I don’t know for sure that’s what is happening, but the issues described could be caused by bad calibration and a cell which isn’t strong enough to sustain full power. Recalibrating it could probably fix one issue and avoid the other.

Interesting. I have recalibrated it at RT and also factory resetting.
Tried 30°C room temp calibration setting with 40°C limit, light still gets roasting hot & shuts off.

Cells I have used are brand new Shockli 1100 mAh 18350, Vapcell 1100mAh 18350, Sanyo GA 18650 and 30Q. The GA is new, 30Q quite old.

I did consider it may be the cells but doubt it with the same behaviour with all even at only 5A current draw.

Awaiting Hanks response.

SKV89
Offline
Last seen: 6 days 14 hours ago
Joined: 12/10/2017 - 12:46
Posts: 4271
Location: US
double_r76 wrote:
lightdecay wrote:
It looks like E21A 2200K is no longer an option on the website. It had a good tint below BBL, I hope it will be back or (even better) be replaced with E21A 2000K.

Oh no! It looks like I waited too long to place my order… patiently waiting to see if it comes back.

-Randy

I’m glad I got the 16× 2200K mule. It’s a good amount below the BBL. Every batch is different. The next batch might not be as good.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 12 hours 9 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10643
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

CRX wrote:
Interesting. I have recalibrated it at RT and also factory resetting.
Tried 30°C room temp calibration setting with 40°C limit, light still gets roasting hot & shuts off.

Cells I have used are brand new Shockli 1100 mAh 18350, Vapcell 1100mAh 18350, Sanyo GA 18650 and 30Q. The GA is new, 30Q quite old.

I did consider it may be the cells but doubt it with the same behaviour with all even at only 5A current draw.

Yup, sounds like you tried all the right things.

Does it otherwise work? Like, if you set the ceiling to full power, can it ramp all the way up and back down normally? I wonder if it could have a broken chip letting power through even when it’s told not to.

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 4231
Location: Scotland

Yes the light works perfectly otherwise as far as I can tell.
Original ramp limit, double click turbo, setting ramp at max etc.
I only realized something was wrong after a while when I decided to check how the thermal stepdown would perform and found the new shutoff feature.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 12 hours 9 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10643
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
CRX wrote:
I only realized something was wrong after a while when I decided to check how the thermal stepdown would perform and found the new shutoff feature.

Not sure what’s wrong with it. I tested that firmware version, but only with aluminum. I don’t have a titanium model to test.

Results looked like this:

I’m guessing the titanium and copper version might ramp down a little slower since copper takes longer to get thermally saturated, but it may end up stabilizing at a lower point since titanium isn’t very good at shedding heat.

Anyway, whatever it’s doing, your KR4 behaves in a way I haven’t seen before. Overheating suggests it’s failing to regulate down for some reason… and then the shutoff, delay, and boot-up blink suggest power is getting interrupted while it’s hot. But I don’t know why or how.

The closest issues I’ve seen are:

  • Some K1 12V drivers have blinked off and on while hot, if the boost chip isn’t heat sinked quite right or if the thermal limit is set too high. This is because of the boost chip’s built-in protection shutting it off.
  • I have a particular 26650 battery which makes my D4S runtime tests go crazy. The battery overheats and then causes output to jump around wildly.

I’m not sure if the KR4 has any chips onboard which would cut power when hot… I haven’t managed to cause that to happen even if I keep activating turbo manually to keep output higher than it should be.

lightdecay
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 days ago
Joined: 06/17/2019 - 08:55
Posts: 421
Location: U.S.A.

D4V2 Brass is now D4V2 CuZn, according to the writing on the tailcap. I like it.

I wonder if D4V2 Ti is now D4V2 CuTi.

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 4231
Location: Scotland
ToyKeeper wrote:
CRX wrote:
I only realized something was wrong after a while when I decided to check how the thermal stepdown would perform and found the new shutoff feature.

Not sure what’s wrong with it. I tested that firmware version, but only with aluminum. I don’t have a titanium model to test.

Results looked like this:

I’m guessing the titanium and copper version might ramp down a little slower since copper takes longer to get thermally saturated, but it may end up stabilizing at a lower point since titanium isn’t very good at shedding heat.

Anyway, whatever it’s doing, your KR4 behaves in a way I haven’t seen before. Overheating suggests it’s failing to regulate down for some reason… and then the shutoff, delay, and boot-up blink suggest power is getting interrupted while it’s hot. But I don’t know why or how.

The closest issues I’ve seen are:

  • Some K1 12V drivers have blinked off and on while hot, if the boost chip isn’t heat sinked quite right or if the thermal limit is set too high. This is because of the boost chip’s built-in protection shutting it off.
  • I have a particular 26650 battery which makes my D4S runtime tests go crazy. The battery overheats and then causes output to jump around wildly.

I’m not sure if the KR4 has any chips onboard which would cut power when hot… I haven’t managed to cause that to happen even if I keep activating turbo manually to keep output higher than it should be.

Thanks for your input, here’s some additional information.

Ok, so another quirk happened, the light refused to change between stepped & ramped output modes and would not reset via the 13H method, I had to use the tailcap version to reset it after a couple of attempts.

I did some runtime tests at various outputs after resetting the light to factory settings.
It does seem to ramp down but then just cuts off within a minute.

Hank has replied to my email and asked me to return the light which I will do.

G0OSE
G0OSE's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 7 min ago
Joined: 09/03/2014 - 12:34
Posts: 2094
Location: UK SW

Bummer, always happens when you REALLY are looking forward to something – I’m sure Hank will sort it though, he is for sure one of the ‘good’ guys out there.

scalpel_ninja
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 29 min ago
Joined: 07/07/2020 - 18:13
Posts: 216

A question for any new KR4 Ti owners out there. Does yours have a slight gap between the copper head and body tube? As shown in the photo, mine is tightened down all the way and still has a gap. The titanium can be seen reflecting light inside the gap. I’ve tried without a battery and it’s the same. There seems to be less of a gap when using a 18350 tube, but still there. I wonder if the light’s tolerances were created with anodized aluminum and not compensated for the non-coated copper? It doesn’t affect the function of the light, but it might trap debris in the gap. I might end up 3D printing a gasket to bridge the area.

Current Collection:

Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XPL-G2 swapped to Nichia 219B sw45K | Wowtac A2S NW | Noctigon KR4 Ti/Cu E21A 4500K + 18350 tube | Thrunite Ti3 NW | Wurkkos FC11 x2 swapped to Nichia 219B 3500K | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Convoy S2+ 7135x8 T6-3B | SkyLumen LEPvn | Nitecore D10 Custom with Anduril | Jetbeam RRT01vn 3000K | Thrunite T10 Ti | HDS Rotary Nichia 219B 4000K

trakcon
trakcon's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 13 min ago
Joined: 01/23/2019 - 15:50
Posts: 396
scalpel_ninja wrote:
A question for any new KR4 Ti owners out there. Does yours have a slight gap between the copper head and body tube?

Mine has a slight gap, but not as big as yours.

lightdecay
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 days ago
Joined: 06/17/2019 - 08:55
Posts: 421
Location: U.S.A.

My brand new D4V2 CuZn E21A 2200K has a weird issue.

Sometimes, but not always, main emitters stay on even after I turn off the flashlight. They are at a level somewhat higher than moonlight. I don’t know how to trigger this issue yet. It happened on its own after I did not use the flashlight for a few minutes. Once it happens, simply using the flashlight or disconnecting the battery does not make this issue go away. It does somehow go away on its own.

I have seen it both start and stop happening while I was not using the flashlight or pressing the button. It was turned off.
Reset does not fix it.
It happens regardless of the level the flashlight was ramped to before it was turned off.
It happens with all aux led settings.
Even using manual lockout and turning the tailcap, pressing the button to make sure battery was disconnected, and then undoing the lockout doesn’t make it go away.
Everything else seems to work fine.

id30209
id30209's picture
Offline
Last seen: 28 min 30 sec ago
Joined: 05/17/2018 - 12:20
Posts: 1669
Location: Croatia

Hm, dang. Above issues CRX and lightdecay are experiencing made me check my “old” D4V2 Ti and Br and both after some time have a glitch like lightdecay explained.

Both turn emitters on level above moonlight...

How the hell i missed that before :/

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

scalpel_ninja
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 29 min ago
Joined: 07/07/2020 - 18:13
Posts: 216
trakcon wrote:
Mine has a slight gap, but not as big as yours.

Thank you!

Current Collection:

Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XPL-G2 swapped to Nichia 219B sw45K | Wowtac A2S NW | Noctigon KR4 Ti/Cu E21A 4500K + 18350 tube | Thrunite Ti3 NW | Wurkkos FC11 x2 swapped to Nichia 219B 3500K | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Convoy S2+ 7135x8 T6-3B | SkyLumen LEPvn | Nitecore D10 Custom with Anduril | Jetbeam RRT01vn 3000K | Thrunite T10 Ti | HDS Rotary Nichia 219B 4000K

lightdecay
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 days ago
Joined: 06/17/2019 - 08:55
Posts: 421
Location: U.S.A.

Just to clarify, the issue is that main emitters never turn off unless battery power is disconnected, but otherwise the flashlight works fine. They are brighter than the lowest possible moonlight level is, but not very bright.

Pages