Bummer, always happens when you REALLY are looking forward to something - I’m sure Hank will sort it though, he is for sure one of the ‘good’ guys out there.
A question for any new KR4 Ti owners out there. Does yours have a slight gap between the copper head and body tube? As shown in the photo, mine is tightened down all the way and still has a gap. The titanium can be seen reflecting light inside the gap. I’ve tried without a battery and it’s the same. There seems to be less of a gap when using a 18350 tube, but still there. I wonder if the light’s tolerances were created with anodized aluminum and not compensated for the non-coated copper? It doesn’t affect the function of the light, but it might trap debris in the gap. I might end up 3D printing a gasket to bridge the area.
Mine has a slight gap, but not as big as yours.
My brand new D4V2 CuZn E21A 2200K has a weird issue.
Sometimes, but not always, main emitters stay on even after I turn off the flashlight. They are at a level somewhat higher than moonlight. I don’t know how to trigger this issue yet. It happened on its own after I did not use the flashlight for a few minutes. Once it happens, simply using the flashlight or disconnecting the battery does not make this issue go away. It does somehow go away on its own.
I have seen it both start and stop happening while I was not using the flashlight or pressing the button. It was turned off.
Reset does not fix it.
It happens regardless of the level the flashlight was ramped to before it was turned off.
It happens with all aux led settings.
Even using manual lockout and turning the tailcap, pressing the button to make sure battery was disconnected, and then undoing the lockout doesn’t make it go away.
Everything else seems to work fine.
Hm, dang. Above issues CRX and lightdecay are experiencing made me check my “old” D4V2 Ti and Br and both after some time have a glitch like lightdecay explained.
Both turn emitters on level above moonlight...
How the hell i missed that before :/
Thank you!
Just to clarify, the issue is that main emitters never turn off unless battery power is disconnected, but otherwise the flashlight works fine. They are brighter than the lowest possible moonlight level is, but not very bright.
That is exactly what i have on first released D4V2 Titanium and brass...
Maybe Hank just ran out of 2200K E21A emitters. Maybe he just purchased a small number of them expecting sales to be very small. In any event, I’m very happy I purchased mine when I did. I love the 2200K KR-4.
My flashlight is working fine right now. Due to intermittent nature of the problem it is most likely not firmware related. I think it could be a minor short. Does anyone know if lube conducts electricity? I wonder if I should try cleaning the driver with isopropyl alcohol.
Beautiful light. Looks a good bit nicer in person too.
Have you checked the light blinks out the correct temperature?
It sounds like the lights may have developed a leak.
When power is connected, it normally has two paths it can use to reach the main LEDs — the low power channel, and the high power channel. Normally they both block power and prevent it from flowing while the light is in “off” mode. However, either one of those could potentially become a bit leaky over time due to wear and tear, making it so they don’t fully stop the flow.
Or a third path could develop, in a variety of ways. Some of these possibilities can be resolved by cleaning the inside of the light, while others are more difficult. Cleaning it is generally a good first step, though. Ideally, clean it with dry methods first, to remove as much gunk as possible, then test it… and if it still has issues, try it with isopropyl alcohol next. Usually it’s not good to start with a wet method, because that can carry conductive dust deeper into the light and cause a leak.
How much is the real weight of TI version?
Strange that on site is the same as aluminium version,95GR.
Same problem as described here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/7utu6m/emisar_d1s_not_turning_completely_off/
Hank sent him a replacement driver
Furthering TK’s theory of a “leak”… I could see this maybe happening if the gate pin of the FET was floating (due to PWM stopping when the flashlight is turned off). The only Emisar driver I have sitting around is my original D1S driver and I see it has a gate pull-down resistor, so it shouldn’t be able to float. Do these new(?) drivers have gate pull-downs? Or is it possible that it got damaged (or not soldered properly)?
I haven’t done anything to the driver. Yet...^^^^^
Several reports so far and nobody messed with the hardware
Right, but if they forgot to include that in the design, or it got phased out, or not soldered on properly…
Looks like i’ll picking out driver out this weekend then...
Small leaks can happen in all sorts of ways, and they happen on many different flashlights. Usually when this sort of thing comes up, people have been able to solve it by cleaning the inside of the light or possibly just moving the parts a little and re-seating them.
The last case I ran into was a LT1 which had a pinched wire inside. The owner wrapped the wire and arranged it carefully for re-assembly, and it was fine.
Sometimes cleaning the contacts or blowing out debris is enough to fix it. Or sometimes briefly tapping a few PCB contact points with an iron fixes things. With computers, it used to be somewhat common for people to fix a broken video card by baking it in an oven just long enough to soften the solder a little.