my eneloops also come off the charger at about 1.4v, even though nominally they are called 1.2v batteries
similarly, the LiIon cells we use in flashlights are nominally 3.7v power sources, and come off the charger at 4.1v. That includes the 10180 LiIon
if you charge when the light gets dim, all will be well
with a DMM you could confirm the voltage of the battery is not below 2.5v
and then recharge with confidence
also, it is better for LiIon to be recharged when half empty, which is at about 3.7v
it is not good to drain them all the way down to 2.5v frequently, in fact, you should really recharge before they go below 3v imo
anyway, you light has not failed you, dont worry
> The Olight S15 seemed to have weak LVP
LVP applies to LiIon, not to NiMh
what you may be observing is that there is a certain minimum power requirement for a circuit to work
Agg⌠you caught me. I should have known that⌠no LVP in NiMH cells. I had heard that Li-ion cells donât have âmemoryâ (unlike NiMH) but have an aging factor. I donât usually drain my batteries down until the lightâs protection circuit kicks in. Itâs only once I start seeing short duration before step down from high modes. I will be testing more often though.
Whatâs the formal technical term for a flashlight cutting power due to low battery, in order to protect the cell? Versus LVP in Li-Ion?
Thanks Pete7874 for the heads up! I just made an order. Retail price is $20 so should be worth the $5, with the built in charging too. I just hope the LED tint isnât too cool, as I am a warm white kind of person.
All you gotta do is click the âemailâ button, but not send anything. No need to spam anything to anyone.
The Olight i1R 2 EOS is a very decent key chain flashlight. The low is a usable soft output, while the high is pretty darned bright for something this size. The battery seems to do pretty well with infrequent use. I have mine on my car key chain and probably use it a couple times per week for a few moments. What draws me to use is when Iâve either left my EDC somewhere else, or, I have the car keys in my hands and itâs just so convenient to âtwist the tube.â The tint is cool⌠but not unbearably blue.
Thatâs the color I got. It didnât last long though, after the wife saw it.
Now I got excuse to buy a flashlight. Something like âWell you took my last one.â
I feel like I remember issues with parasitic drain on the original version of this. Could someone check on a new version? With only ~90mAh on 10180s, itâs a big concern.
Itâs a 70 mAh cell, according to Olight specs. How could you check for parasitic drain if the cell is not removable? Since itâs a twisty, I wouldnât expect there to be any parasitic drain though.
I have a black one from olights christmas sale and it seems to work months after a charge with ocassional use.
Iâm with pete7874, its a twisty, shouldnât have any parasitic drain with the battery disconnected.
Oh, I didnât realize the Olights were sealed. Iâve got a small collection of 10180 built-in charger lights, and none of mine are sealed. I guess your best bet would be to remove the head and check the voltage periodically. Not super practical.
The head does not come off, or at least I have not found how to remove it.
Recently I got a bit worried when it remained charging for three hours before the green âchargedâ light came on. I had used it a fair bit but the light was still bright, so the battery wasnât flat. I wondered if it simply wasnât charging or something was wrong.
The next time, it took an hour, but that was when it had not been used much at all. Olightâs site says it can be fully charged in 75 minutes.
In spite of its two shortcomings (sealed battery, cool low-CRI emitter) I would be quite disappointed if it died. This is the light I use most often, because itâs there when I need it.
Comparing i1R 2 to i3E, I think I like the i3E better - it has nicer tint and I much prefer the flexibility awarded by an AAA cell (either alkaline or NiMH). I just wish it had a low mode, like the i1R 2 does.