WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

Ps.

Can someone recommend a good method for cleaning a smooth reflector? There’s some kind of residue maybe from when i shorted the light…i did not witness anything but afterwards the innermost part of the reflector had a hazy residue. Whitish not sooty. Plus fingerprints near outer edge from sloppy handling. I wiped with a lens cloth for glasses , reduced 90 % but don’t want to scratch it. I swear it’s causing mild tint shift.

Most flashlight reflectors are EXTREMELY delicate. Even a small amount of wiping could take off the reflective coating.

Personally, I try never to touch or rub the reflector. I might use a compressed air canister to blow debris off, but that’s about it. A fingerprint might be unsightly, but it’s less damaging to the reflector than accidentally taking the coating off trying to get rid of it.

I believe you are correct.

I just modded a Sunwayman V11r to sw45k and compared its max output to my Eye10 tic that is also modded to sw45k. the outputs were identical.

(I move the same battery from one light to the next and measure momentary maximum)

I compared to my TCR-1 that also has an sw45k, and it was just 10 lumens brighter, it has a spring bypass. I dont know if thats the reason, or normal variation between components.

Sunwayman, Jetbeam, Niteye, (and Nitecore), are all subsidiaries of Sysmax, and though the hosts have cosmetic differences, there are also a lot of shared resources. In fact, the Jetbeam reflector also fits the Eye10, and the heads and body tubes lego. And the vast majority of Jetbeam RRT-01 versions I have seen, have Eye10 drivers in them too.

Sunwayman is a bit more different than Eye/RRT original, in the way the driver is mounted. The driver wires dont go through the control ring to the mcpcb, the way they do on Eye/RRT original, so Sunwayman is easier to mod, without having to remove the driver, nor bezel and reflector.

The 2019 and 2020 RRT-01 use the sunwayman design, so dont have the risk of torn driver wires of the Eye/RRT original, when splitting the control ring assembly.

I just received a RRT-01 and noticed that the ring doesn’t turn perfectly smoothly. The lower end feels pretty smooth and well damped, but especially towards the higher end of outputs, the ring feels rougher, like it’s rubbing or needs to be lubed. The thing is, turning the ring a dozen or so times leaves my fingers covered with what appears to be silicone grease on them, so clearly the ring has lubrication. Has anyone else noticed this?

Thanks.

Sounds like too much lubricant around the sides of the ring. None of my Jetbeam lights have that problem.

The solution is to disassemble the light, remove the stock grease and apply fresh grease. Note that disassembly takes some effort and will require desoldering and removing the driver first.

I recall seeing some threads here and on CPF describing the best kind of grease to use, but I don’t have links to them. The grease I got from my local automotive shop was not an improvement. Best to order the right kind of grease.

Anyone have a recommendation on the best type of grease to use?

How easy is disassembly to the point that you can get under the ring? I was planning on doing an emitter swap anyway, but figured getting under the ring would be a challenge.

2019 model or original model?
The grease coming out doesn’t necessarly mean you have grease in all the right places and they’re could also be some type of cotaminants inside.
I have had a V10R feel a little rough even though it had plenty of teflon grease. I figured out that the ring top was rubbing agaisnt the head. It had rubbed and made rough spots on both the head and ring. I used 2000 grit sandpaper and polished both contact surfaces to a high shine. Smooth as silk now.
You’ll probably have to disassemble the light to figure out where the roughness is coming from.
Dampnig grease also improves the feel of the control ring, recommendations are buried in this thread.

It’s the new (2020?) model.

Instructions to disassemble to the 2012 RRT-01’s ring.
Note that I have not yet attempted to disassemble my 2019 and 2020 RRT-01s. However, I have removed the driver from them and looked underneath and I believe the process is the same. The differences between the models are largely cosmetic. The internal construction of the head is the same.

WARNING: you MUST remove the driver before disassembling the head to get at the ring. If you do not, the act of unscrewing the two sections holding the ring will torque the driver wires and quite possibly destroy the driver.

  • Unscrew and remove the bezel - Do this by gripping the bezel with one hand and the head ABOVE the ring with the other. Do not grip on or below the ring. In the 2012 RRT-01 and TCR-01 I used 3M indoor stairway grip tape for the necessary grip. With the 2019 or 2020 models place a flat piece of grip tape over the front of the light, then press into your hand and turn. If you don’t have grip tape, you might try a rubber jar opener or the sole of a shoe. The bezel in the 2019 and 2020 versions is not threadlocked.
  • Remove the reflector - with the bezel off, remove the lens (it’s probably still in the bezel), then remove the reflector. In the 2012 model, the reflector falls out. In the 2019 and 2020 models there is a fat o-ring around the edges of the bezel keeping it in. Use a small hooked tool or tweezers to grab and remove the o-ring. With the o-ring off the bezel should fall out.
  • Remove the plastic insulating spacer around the LED with tweezers.
  • Desolder the driver wires from the star
  • Straighten the driver wires to vertical so they won’t get caught when the driver is removed.
  • Unscrew and remove the driver retaining screw. The screw is on the bottom of the head at the top of the battery compartment. You will need a small torx head screwdriver.
  • Lift off the driver retaining plate with a screwdriver.
  • Remove the driver. Using long-nosed pliers grip the center post on the bottom of the driver and pull the driver out of the light.
  • To prevent it from falling out and possibly damaging the LED, it’s not a bad idea to also remove the star at this point.
  • Unscrew the top half of the head from the bottom half. The head is composed of 2 sections that screw together underneath the star. Grip the portion of the head above the ring and the portion below the ring and unscrew. Note that you might need to use a lot of force. In the 2012 version, these portions were threadlocked and I suspect the 2019 and 2020 versions are the same.
  • Once the head is in 2 sections you can then lift off and remove the ring. Please note that the ring has a tiny ball-bearing and spring on the side of the ring for the detentes. They probably won’t fall off on their own when you remove the ring due to the grease holding them in place. However, if you brush them they might come off. Do not lose them when removing the ring.

At this point you can clean off all the old lube and relube the ring with your choice of new lube. Then reverse the entire process to reassemble the light.

While you have it disassembled, this is also a good time to upgrade the emitter. Perhaps a high-CRI 219C.

Overall, it’s a fairly involved process to disassemble one of these lights to get at the ring. However, once you know how to do it, it’s not hard. Just go slow and methodical and double-check to make sure you aren’t skipping any steps.

I have not opened a 2020, but Ive done a couple 2019, and I think they are the same design.

The 2019 model does not require removing the driver.

I dont have photos of your exact model, but I think you will get the idea from these:

2019 uses the Sunwayman design,
not the 2012 RRT-01 design

the control ring halves on the 2019 can be unscrewed without removing the mcpcb, driver, bezel, lens, reflector…

here are some tools I used to open a sunwayman

on this sunwayman you can see the control ring upside down after being simply lifted off the bottom half of the assembly, and in its normal position showing its magnets

I like Nyogel 767a:

(thats a 2012 RRT-01)

I agree with moderator007 that besides the interior areas of lubrication, that it is possible to improve feel with a small amount of thinner lube on the face he described polishing, that makes contact with the magnet side of the control ring.

Thanks, everyone.

I’ll borrow jon-slider’s pick :smiley: .
.

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Those two surface need to be free from glue and decently smooth with some lube of your choice added.
Since this gap between the head and ring isn’t sealed that’s usually where you will find most of your pocket lint and dust.
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@firelight2
That’s a good detailed decsription of the tear down. :+1:

Any chance anyone would be willing to trade a set of the extension tubes for putting a 219b sw45k in my 2020 model? Or if that’s not a fair deal, let me know what would be :slight_smile:

good idea :+1:
if you dont get a trade offer,
another option is to ask skylumen.com

info request

What is the parasitic drain of the 2020 RRT-01 when the switch is ON and the dial is turned to minimum?

and
what is the parasitic drain of the 2019 model when the dial is turned to minimum … :slight_smile:

2019 was lower 40uA iirc. Off :person_facepalming:

12mA.

2020: 3mA (assuming I am doing this correctly, dont take my word for it)

I would want this clipped to my belt with the clip included. Can anyone tell me if the ring will turn by rubbing at my jeans? (when set at high or off)? How stiff are the detents at “off” and “high”?
The last thing I want would be a light that I have to fondle with every time I use it because the ring is set at whatever. Same goes true for carrying it in my pockets.

For the 2019 version the detents are probably stiff enough that wont happen often and if it did it would take a pretty decent turn to come on with enough brightness to really drain your battery

For the 2020 the detents are almost non-existent BUT it has a very recessed and firm forward switch so it’s not really an issue.

thanks
trust but verify

word on the street is
the 2012 has a drain of 55uA (selbuilt)
the 2019 has a drain of 27uA (djozz)
the 2020 switched on, dial at minimum has a drain of:

.

you might not want a rotary light then

I fondle my dial all the time. That is what I love about it.

If you want the dial to be guaranteed to stay where you left it the last time you used it, plan on upgrading the grease in the dial to Nyogel 767a

with that being said, Ive never had a rotary dial turn in my pocket… but I would hate for you to be disappointed…

Gosh don’t quote me I can barely use a multimeter. It doesnt really make sense why it would increase so who knows, I am probably wrong.