FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

I opened the first one I had, from the original GB run, just out of curiosity. Never carried it because I hated the switch so much, and traded it for a knife.

For my purple, it was a shelf queen until I opened the tail to do the o-ring mod. Now it sees use and carry time.

Also, it feels like half the FW3As out there need to be opened and fiddled with just to get them working right to begin with.

Thanks SammysHP. I turned it on. Then 5H, and it now turns on at the level it was at when turned off. I’m pretty sure that is not in the manual that came with my light. Maybe my light shipped with a new version of Anduril but not a new Manual.

This UI diagram has the manual/automatic memory, and for some reason I also have an easier time reading this one than the normal UI diagram. :

I found this on reddit and don’t know the source, sorry!

I’ve got one fw3a that now displays this same issue. Happened after I shorted the +wire to the shelf like an idiot. I think my best guess was the mcu was the culprit. Never dug into it though as I’m also looking forward to the Lume1 driver

Correct, Lumintop have updated the Anduril version at least once (compared to launch model).

Launch models did not have manual memory, new models do. I think maybe factory reset was not present on launch models also.

They did not update the included manual. No big deal since only minor changes to UI.

Right, except when I inadvertently change a setting that is not in the manual and have to turn to the internet to figure it out. Thank you BLF for your help.

I understand them not printing a new manual, especially if they have a large quantity already printed. Maybe they could include a small slip of paper saying something to the effect of “Anduril UI has been updated, go to this website for the latest features.”

My FW3A won’t turn on after I let someone use it and trying to unscrew the tailcap.

Battery is fully charged retaining ring seem tight enough.
Clicking or holding down the tail e-switch does not turn it on.

Have you tried removing the head and loosening then retightening the tailcap, reinsert the cell (it is charged?) And then replace and tighten the head?

Did they just loosen the tailcap a little or actually remove it? If it is a version without the newer tailcap that has the retaining ring they may have lost the little “nub”

Thanks MtnDon

My version is from Mid 2019.
I am not sure what exactly happened to the tailcap but I assume it could have been removed.

Yes I removed the head, tightened tailcap and Yes Battery is charged

You could try loosening the retaining ring in the tailcap slightly. That helped with a poor contact on an FW3 for a period.

I loosened it a bit, sofar no joy, it is not turning on, and also no “blink” - battery check on contact. but I appreciate your suggestion,

You don’t get the power connected blink? That is a basic function not connected to the switch or inner tube. It’s just battery power going through the tail cap and battery tube to the head. This explains the switch not working. The driver is not getting power.

You will need to start with the basics. Take just the head and attach a battery to it. Then use a wire to go from the battery negative to the exposed threads on the head. Stick the wire end next to the battery to reach the threads.

If too hard, install the battery tube minus the inner tube (we will assume good contact from the head to battery tube) then run your wire from battery negative to the exposed threads on the battery tube.

You should see the power connected blink. If not, there is a problem in the head. Try loosening and then tightening the driver retaining ring. Make sure it’s sitting flat and is centered. Test again to see if it gets power.

If not, remove the TIR lens and make sure the wires to the leds are still attached. If so, the problem might be in the driver which is a bit more complicated to diagnose and requires soldering equipment.

Also, try wiping the threads clean, using a little bit of conductive lubricant (“bulb grease”)
A bit of grit can cause a lot of misbehavior.

Just a quick warning: “Bulb grease” is not conductive. It is an insulator used to protect electrical contacts from water/corrosion and arcing. The electric connection is made by the contact points between the two objects.

Sadly this misinformation (that bulb grease is conductive and that conductive substances should be used in flashlights) is shared by hank repeatedly in this forum.

Using any kind of conductive substance in your flashlight will cause shorts and other issues at some point.

good to know, thank you for the heads up. I always use bulb grease when changing my car’s headlights. Always assumed it was to keep rain water out, not help with conductivity.

Correct, that’s the main purpose for it. But in some way it also helps with conductivity because it seals all metal surfaces from moisture and air. This prevents corrosion which would cause contact issues.

Depending on the ingredients, bulb grease might be suitable for flashlights. If you want to be on the safe side, use silicone based grease (the cheap stuff works, but you can also buy the expensive Nyogel that has slightly better lubrication and stability properties).

PS: Edited my previous post to make clear which misinformation I meant.

Just for the record, I thought we’d agreed to disagree about the existence of conductive grease,.
But since you repost the same claim, I’ll repost the response. Google finds a variety of products.

Nyogel is the one that has been recommended for flashlight users for years now. Not all of their products, only the conductive type.

and

Of course you don’t want to gorp it on and cause a short circuit, as cautioned above.
Rather, you wipe the threads to clean them (aluminum oxidizes to make that black insulating dirt you see in the threads after a while, that’s what you’re cleaning up)

Let’s not keep repeating this, huh?

“It doesn’t exist and you shouldn’t use it”
“It exists and here’s the reference”

repeating this exchange back and forth isn’t helpful. I”ll just link back to this next go-round rather than retype the references again.

I don’t think we have agreed, at least I didn’t. I accept that you insist on your standpoint, but I see it as necessary to correct your dangerous advice when I see it.

I’ve never seen Nyogel 756G or 758G recommended for flashlights. The usual recommendation is 760G:

I’ve never denied the existence of conductive grease. But it is not relevant for our use cases. And this repetition is helpful because it might protect other people from ruining their flashlights.

I do have a question about the property of grease used in the threads. As I understand it, anodized aluminum is non-conductive. Electrical current and e-switch signals should be happening within the body via the tube, right? If so, why would I need a conductive grease on the anodized threads of its not meant to conduct any current? Wouldn’t plain lubrication and chemical stability be the priority?

I think the switch relies on the inner tube for its signals but the outer tube still is used to carry current for the driver.