I opened the first one I had, from the original GB run, just out of curiosity. Never carried it because I hated the switch so much, and traded it for a knife.
For my purple, it was a shelf queen until I opened the tail to do the o-ring mod. Now it sees use and carry time.
Also, it feels like half the FW3As out there need to be opened and fiddled with just to get them working right to begin with.
Thanks SammysHP. I turned it on. Then 5H, and it now turns on at the level it was at when turned off. I’m pretty sure that is not in the manual that came with my light. Maybe my light shipped with a new version of Anduril but not a new Manual.
I’ve got one fw3a that now displays this same issue. Happened after I shorted the +wire to the shelf like an idiot. I think my best guess was the mcu was the culprit. Never dug into it though as I’m also looking forward to the Lume1 driver
Right, except when I inadvertently change a setting that is not in the manual and have to turn to the internet to figure it out. Thank you BLF for your help.
I understand them not printing a new manual, especially if they have a large quantity already printed. Maybe they could include a small slip of paper saying something to the effect of “Anduril UI has been updated, go to this website for the latest features.”
Have you tried removing the head and loosening then retightening the tailcap, reinsert the cell (it is charged?) And then replace and tighten the head?
Did they just loosen the tailcap a little or actually remove it? If it is a version without the newer tailcap that has the retaining ring they may have lost the little “nub”
You don’t get the power connected blink? That is a basic function not connected to the switch or inner tube. It’s just battery power going through the tail cap and battery tube to the head. This explains the switch not working. The driver is not getting power.
You will need to start with the basics. Take just the head and attach a battery to it. Then use a wire to go from the battery negative to the exposed threads on the head. Stick the wire end next to the battery to reach the threads.
If too hard, install the battery tube minus the inner tube (we will assume good contact from the head to battery tube) then run your wire from battery negative to the exposed threads on the battery tube.
You should see the power connected blink. If not, there is a problem in the head. Try loosening and then tightening the driver retaining ring. Make sure it’s sitting flat and is centered. Test again to see if it gets power.
If not, remove the TIR lens and make sure the wires to the leds are still attached. If so, the problem might be in the driver which is a bit more complicated to diagnose and requires soldering equipment.
Just a quick warning: “Bulb grease” is not conductive. It is an insulator used to protect electrical contacts from water/corrosion and arcing. The electric connection is made by the contact points between the two objects.
Sadly this misinformation (that bulb grease is conductive and that conductive substances should be used in flashlights) is shared by hank repeatedly in this forum.
Using any kind of conductive substance in your flashlight will cause shorts and other issues at some point.
good to know, thank you for the heads up. I always use bulb grease when changing my car’s headlights. Always assumed it was to keep rain water out, not help with conductivity.
Correct, that’s the main purpose for it. But in some way it also helps with conductivity because it seals all metal surfaces from moisture and air. This prevents corrosion which would cause contact issues.
Depending on the ingredients, bulb grease might be suitable for flashlights. If you want to be on the safe side, use silicone based grease (the cheap stuff works, but you can also buy the expensive Nyogel that has slightly better lubrication and stability properties).
PS: Edited my previous post to make clear which misinformation I meant.
Just for the record, I thought we’d agreed to disagree about the existence of conductive grease,.
But since you repost the same claim, I’ll repost the response. Google finds a variety of products.
Nyogel is the one that has been recommended for flashlight users for years now. Not all of their products, only the conductive type.
and
Of course you don’t want to gorp it on and cause a short circuit, as cautioned above.
Rather, you wipe the threads to clean them (aluminum oxidizes to make that black insulating dirt you see in the threads after a while, that’s what you’re cleaning up)
Let’s not keep repeating this, huh?
“It doesn’t exist and you shouldn’t use it”
“It exists and here’s the reference”
repeating this exchange back and forth isn’t helpful. I”ll just link back to this next go-round rather than retype the references again.
I don’t think we have agreed, at least I didn’t. I accept that you insist on your standpoint, but I see it as necessary to correct your dangerous advice when I see it.
I’ve never seen Nyogel 756G or 758G recommended for flashlights. The usual recommendation is 760G:
I’ve never denied the existence of conductive grease. But it is not relevant for our use cases. And this repetition is helpful because it might protect other people from ruining their flashlights.
I do have a question about the property of grease used in the threads. As I understand it, anodized aluminum is non-conductive. Electrical current and e-switch signals should be happening within the body via the tube, right? If so, why would I need a conductive grease on the anodized threads of its not meant to conduct any current? Wouldn’t plain lubrication and chemical stability be the priority?