Please try. It should be 20% brighter. So it should hit 100KCD which is extreeme thrower in that flashlight size. Do you remember those small 80-90 kcd lights that Saabluster(from CPF but he is member here too) was selling several years ago for 300-400$? At that time that was really extreme performance in small flashligt form factor. Well this should certainly surpass it in every possible way if you put WF1 inside.
Thanks for the measurements and the information on this luminarium iaculator
Well, 14A current may be a little too much for the led No angry blue on this team
I was going to get a UT201E clamp meter 2 weeks ago on a local store, supposedly on sale for half the price (23€) but when I reached the store it was sold out :person_facepalming: I felt disappointed. I will wait some more time, bad time to buy stuff now…
About my rough measurements (really rough, as I have no good setting to do this at home):
at 5 m, I got a) ~2290 lux peak, 2080 lux after around 15-20 seconds, and b) 206 FC, that then started decreasing.
Using the online calculator that you gently pointed me to,
207 FC = 2228.1294563l lux
2290 lux = 212.7479616 FC
2290lux at 5m = 57250cd
So, are the measurements wrong?
Driver is set to CC at 5.5A, the battery was at around 4.1V, and after being lit for a while (less that 1 minute), the light was 46ºC in parts of the head and body.
It gets almost too hot to hold when being pushed during some time.
I hope this helps in some way :+1:
And help me correct what is wrong !
I don’t think they are wrong… Possible LUX meter calibration variation
Whole BLF would need group buy of same type/same calibration luxmeter. That way we would have same results. Djozz would be right guy to take group buy since he is almost doctor for lux meters
Contactr got this before me lol
But there are plenty of possible variables:
- Lens difference (only applies to glass lenses and performance may vary a lot)
- emitter brightness difference (someone gets lemon and someone strawberry)
- spring bypass (ignore that for Osram but it still matters for Cree emitters)
- Driver wire length&thickness (not much influence on Osrams just Cree)
- Mcpcb (DTP board really boosts things up)
- lux meter calibration
- Used 18650 cell
I can’t remember any more…
Edit:
About your luxmeter… I noticed that lux meter readings goes up if I clean sensor with wet wipes and microfiber cloth. But you can try to clean it with whatever you have. Mine is in dusty drawer and needs cleaning from time to time…
Thanks both of you! :+1:
I am not used to do this kind of measurements, much less to be “accurate” (if I could ever achieve that).
I needed to have a stable tripod to be able to stop the light and always make it in the same focal point.
Also, better tools and calibrated ones could improve the measurement accuracy. But this is still a hobby and I will only get some things I may need.
Well, not sure if the “blackened” reflector, a non existent gasket, other eventual things related to led centering, can have any kind of influence in terms of illumination. :zipper_mouth_face:
I have no bypassed springs and the tailswitch has a thinner spring , not as the original one.
DTP MCPCB from led4power. I guess it has 20 AWG wires
My luxmeter is normally in a box, with the sensor downwards, so it is not very dirty I guess.
I believe other things may have more impact on this measurement.
I guess my flashlight “science” may be frail after all :innocent:
I went from 66.5kcd to 71.4kcd by adjusting the focus. I took an o-ring from a 26650 light and pressed it onto the shelf where the lens sits then screwed the bezel part way back on.
This is “too much” adjustment and over focused it but I gradually pulled it back until I got a more ideal result with lux meter (on low up close) then formally re-tested at longer range with highest setting.
This tells me that additional 0.5mm added from MCPCB probably does make a difference even though it didnt appear much “sharper” to me visually. Not sure of the best way to correct this yet or if it’s worth it.
Yup, to get it right and increase the numbers seems like there is too much adjustments to do. The thicker MCPCB probably plays a role, mine is lifted a bit because of the pressure/contact of the “reflector” and the board/soldered wires.
The focusing with these Leds needs to be done carefully, adjusting the lens and all the rest in order to make it “reasonable!
Despite I like the current configuration, I am actually thinking of modding it later, eventually, probably maintaining the same driver, but replacing the led. Maybe a Luxeon or something alike… But this is just a thought, not decided yet.
Thanks luminarium iaculator
Well, I know some people can make that led perform better on SMO reflectors, almost having no spill. With this light and its’ reflector (that screws along with the bezel, it is the possible beam
Yup, with the OTR i3 as I have it now, I would have almost no spill nor rings trying to do the same!
As for the Z821, maybe it had some rings/artifacts.
I believe that a Noctigon MCPCB would prevent some “extreme focus” as it would be even higher than the L4P. It would make the “reflector” almost unscrewable :zipper_mouth_face:
Today I managed to make the Z821 a bit better. I found a 3535 gasket that helped me stabilizing the led centering, so I removed the tape it had.
I blackened the gasket, the refector, the lens and the bezel. The center of the beam improved, with less “white”noise.
I compared values with the i3/M1 (with Samsung LH351D , MTN DD driver with Crescendo, 16650 battery charged to 4.18V).
The Z821 was using a Sony VTC6 charged up to 4.12V.
Both at 5m.
i3 ——————————————————————————- Z821
LUX
FC
Cd
i3/M1
380
37
9500
Z821
2520
227
63000
The luxmeter “disappeared” from the image due to the beam intensity
I would not call that reflector… That is well made MCPCB retaining ring seen on plenty of aspheric light models but this is probably the best… Screwable function is surely better than unscrewable . We don’t want to loose that (on flashlight of course).
Yeah, “reflector” is not the best word/expression, but I was not finding a better one :zipper_mouth_face:
In other zoomies normally it is a plastic piece that acts as gasket too, but in this we have the proper gasket, then that metal “part”
I will try to find a proper spray to make it better blackened than with a black permanent marker.
I don’t think a pre-collimator lens increases throw at all. All it does is magnify the die slightly. The result should be a slightly wider hotspot and slightly decreased throw.
If you want to increase throw in the same size light by adding something between the LED and the main lens, I think the only option is a Waiven collar.
Nice!… Now that is just right flashlight plus you can zoom out to get very fine flood mode better than any usefull spill from the reflector lights. Future of flashlights is in zoomie lights…
Ahah, I bet some people would disagree with you concerning this statement :smiling_imp:
Well, as for me, I will still have a place for zoomies in my collection