lume1 for FW3A/C/T - Constant Current Buck Boost + FET Driver with Anduril - Now for Sale!

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arek98
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LED is 2.8Vf or 3Vf” – what LED, people are using different LEDs, what if someone is looking to drive high power UV LED, those have Vf in 3.5-4.0V range. This driver is perfect for it.

moderator007
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arek98 wrote:
LED is 2.8Vf or 3Vf” – what LED, people are using different LEDs, what if someone is looking to drive high power UV LED, those have Vf in 3.5-4.0V range. This driver is perfect for it.

That’s kind of my thoughts too. This driver makes led choices much broader.
Great work Loneoceans, looking forward to using a couple of these. Thumbs Up
loneoceans
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Hello all,

For those still following this thread, I have some updates from Neal in the first prototype factory batch of the Lume1 driver! 

 

Thanks! 

www.loneoceans.com/labs/

- Next-gen Switching Drivers: Lume X1 and Lume1
- High Power Boost Drivers: GXB100 GAN 100W, GXB172 17mm 50W
- Older: GXF22, GFS16, GXB17 & GXB20

loneoceans
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Hello all,

Just wanted to post a note for all those who subscribed to this thread. Thank you all for patience. Also, many thanks to Neal from Nealsgadgets for his hard work getting the logistics to line up well. It was a challenging process due to all the delays and logistical issues due to the pandemic, but Neal has finally got the first batch of the drivers for sale! 

These drivers are just off the production line and they're so new that I haven't yet got my hands on them yet, I've only done validation work with pre-production samples.

You can buy them from Neal here! https://www.nealsgadgets.com/products/lume1-fw3x-driver

For a limited time, use Coupon Code LUME1 for 20% off!

Thanks everyone! Future updates will be posted in the main thread here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/71616

www.loneoceans.com/labs/

- Next-gen Switching Drivers: Lume X1 and Lume1
- High Power Boost Drivers: GXB100 GAN 100W, GXB172 17mm 50W
- Older: GXF22, GFS16, GXB17 & GXB20

id30209
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Thank you Loneocean!

I hopethey didn’t deviate from your design...

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pol77
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Thank you loneoceans for making this driver possible.

I ordered 4, to replace in all my compatible lights. I hopethis design will become available in other sizes so it can be used in other lights as well, even though making it smaller may not be possible.

I would suggest to Neal to include the required wires with the set of driver and aux board, as many of us, myself included, do not have coloured silicone wires of the appropriate size.

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Snagged 3 of them… Thanks lone oceans for making this and making it happen! Beer Thumbs Up

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

shirnask
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Thanks, ordered 5 to start

pol77
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Neal verified that no cables are included with the Lume1 driver / aux board set. Can anyone give me the specs for the cables so I can get some?

id30209
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pol77 wrote:
Neal verified that no cables are included with the Lume1 driver / aux board set. Can anyone give me the specs for the cables so I can get some?

 

Quick google search:

US $3.14 44% Off | One Roll 8 Colors 30AWG Wire Wrapping Wire, Tinned Copper Solid, PVC insulation
https://a.aliexpress.com/_dSr6b4A

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pol77
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Thanks! That’s what I needed to know, the 30AWG part Wink

Should they not be silicone insulated, to handle the heat? Are PVC insulated wires good enough?

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pol77 wrote:
Thanks! That's what I needed to know, the 30AWG part Wink Should they not be silicone insulated, to handle the heat? Are PVC insulated wires good enough?

 

30AWG part you could have read it few posts above and PVC part you need to research more...:)

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pol77
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id30209 wrote:

pol77 wrote:
Thanks! That’s what I needed to know, the 30AWG part Wink Should they not be silicone insulated, to handle the heat? Are PVC insulated wires good enough?

 


30AWG part you could have read it few posts above and PVC part you need to research more…:)

“A typical PVC insulation material has a temperature range of -15°C to 70°C for applications. Silicone rubber typically has a temperature range of -60°C to 180°C”

So, shouldn’t it be silicone in a flashlight?

Scallywag
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30AWG silicone should be fine. Teflon would be thinner but IMO is more of a pain to work with otherwise.

pol77
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Scallywag wrote:
30AWG silicone should be fine. Teflon would be thinner but IMO is more of a pain to work with otherwise.

Thanks

id30209
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pol77 wrote:
"A typical PVC insulation material has a temperature range of -15°C to 70°C for applications. Silicone rubber typically has a temperature range of -60°C to 180°C" So, shouldn't it be silicone in a flashlight?

 

US $1.81 25% Off | 10metre 30AWG Silicone Wire Ultra Flexiable Cable 0.055mm2 Tinned Copper wire Test Line Wire
https://a.aliexpress.com/_dXHk1xC

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pol77
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Thanks, I’ll probably look for a local source, as I will not have the patience to wait for the wire to arrive once I have the drivers Smile

pol77
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loneoceans wrote:
Tweaking of resistor values in progress for LED brightness. I do

I do not believe the tweaking of the resistors to equalize auxiliary LED brightness actually happened or was successful. In my Mokume FW3A, blue is quite dim, red is slightly brighter and green is way brighter than both.

Also, the Aux board was wired using one black, one white and two red wires, which works electrically but does not work with my OCD, so I replaced them with the proper colours.

lightdecay
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pol77 wrote:
I do not believe the tweaking of the resistors to equalize auxiliary LED brightness actually happened or was successful. In my Mokume FW3A, blue is quite dim, red is slightly brighter and green is way brighter than both.
My Mokume FW3A has the same issue.
pol77
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And another driver I bought from Neal and installed today as well. I have a sneaking suspicion they may have swapped the resistors for green and blue by mistake.

If anyone can verify…

id30209
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pol77 wrote:
And another driver I bought from Neal and installed today as well. I have a sneaking suspicion they may have swapped the resistors for green and blue by mistake. If anyone can verify...

 

Post this info in FB group Lumintop Family...

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pol77 wrote:
I do not believe the tweaking of the resistors to equalize auxiliary LED brightness actually happened or was successful. In my Mokume FW3A, blue is quite dim, red is slightly brighter and green is way brighter than both.

Getting the right resistor values for balanced RGB is somewhat difficult and fiddly, requiring careful adjustment by trial and error. It’s do-able, but it involves a level of care and attention to detail that I was never able to get from Neal or Lumintop during the FW3A project.

contactcr
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The one I built looks like the rgb from the emisars. They aren’t any more balanced imo. Maybe slightly if any

pol77
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Getting the right resistor values for balanced RGB is somewhat difficult and fiddly, requiring careful adjustment by trial and error. It’s do-able, but it involves a level of care and attention to detail that I was never able to get from Neal or Lumintop during the FW3A project.

Thanks for this information. It is sad, but very useful to know.

The drivers came with a firmware dated 24/2/2020. I see you have a newer FW3A firmware in your depository. Is the Lume1 driver running the same firmware as the default FW3A driver or is it a different firmware and there is no update on the repository at the moment?

contactcr wrote:
The one I built looks like the rgb from the emisars. They aren’t any more balanced imo. Maybe slightly if any

I just put the lume1 light next to my KR4 and I can verify the KR4 is massively more balanced! I did not test with a D4V2 but I don’t expect the aux boards between the 2 are different.

80% of the problem with the lume1 aux board comes from the brightness of the green, which os excessive and overshadows the others. 20% is the too dim blue. If anyone is working with electronics and has resistors available to try, it would be a great service to the community.

lightdecay
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If it looks like Emisars, then yours does not have that issue. My Emisars all look great.

My FW3A with Lume1-FW3X has the same issue pol77 mentioned. It looks pretty bad when colors are mixed, because blue and red are too dim compared to green.

contactcr
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I’ll check again, you guys should move to the other thread. It’s more active

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pol77 wrote:
The drivers came with a firmware dated 24/2/2020. I see you have a newer FW3A firmware in your depository. Is the Lume1 driver running the same firmware as the default FW3A driver or is it a different firmware and there is no update on the repository at the moment?

I haven’t merged the lume1 code yet, so I don’t have any builds for it. I need to do that soon; have just been very limited in the amount of time I can spend lately. Also, I don’t have any of the hardware so I don’t have a way to verify if it works after merging. So I’d definitely stick with the stock firmware for a while, until newer versions are tested on real hardware.

pol77
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ToyKeeper wrote:
I haven’t merged the lume1 code yet, so I don’t have any builds for it. I need to do that soon; have just been very limited in the amount of time I can spend lately. Also, I don’t have any of the hardware so I don’t have a way to verify if it works after merging. So I’d definitely stick with the stock firmware for a while, until newer versions are tested on real hardware.

Thanks!

All my FW3x lights are utilizing 219b LEDs. Will you be making a firmware safe to use with them like with the stock driver or is it not possible with this hardware? I remember the prototype was using 219b LEDs. Should I maybe stop using my LG HB2 batteries and use something that provides fewer Amps?

id30209
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I’m using 219B in 3 FW’s. Just use low dischg cell and avoid Turbo if not required and you’ll be fine. New damast will cook any emitter anyway like FW3S did my setup Smile

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pol77 wrote:
All my FW3x lights are utilizing 219b LEDs. Will you be making a firmware safe to use with them like with the stock driver or is it not possible with this hardware?

That’s what the FW3A-219 build is for.

It’s probably still a good idea to avoid really high-amp cells though, since the FET pulses the LEDs at full power. The firmware can make those pulses shorter in time, but it can’t make them pull fewer amps during each pulse.

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