I managed to “perfect” (in the possible way) the beam in my Eagle Eye X3R with an Osram W1.
(Previous posts on it: 1 & 2 )
I took the gasket out (to lower the reflector near to the PCB and led, and to erase the ringy around the hotspot), and applied some electrical tape and GITD tape over the pcb (for insulation and GITD effect).
Not pretty, but better than it was before.
I managed to get that small clear light circle in the hotspot, that was not happening before
Besides this I also put an Osram W2 on the On The Road Z821 zoomable flashlight! The beam is awkward, but I am waiting for the night to test it outside and check how it behaves
I was thinking of running the CSLNM1.TG using the convoy sst40 driver in an S2+, but Djozz’s test showed that it peaked at 4.5-5A and I’m worried about frying it with prolonged 100%
Everyone should mention candela rating and not meters… ANSI standard? Well it kinda sucks… Mine 280 kcd light for me has usable 500-600 meters beam distance(depends on the night)… This is individual stuff. Cause there are areas with ultra dark nights where ansi measurements can actually pass. But it mostly won’t pass. So I don’t take only the beam distance as a relevant data… Candela rating tells much more about light so if candela rating is true and “right” by my personal experience I can estimate throw by my night conditions…, and if 140 kcd is true that is around 200-250m of usable light in mine area…
They convert perfectly back and forth. Neither measurement tells you any more or less than the other. Just take 2/3 or 1/2 the FL1 throw based on how much intensity you want at a given range and there’s your real-world throw.
In fact candela ratings can be deceiving since it requires exponentially more to increase throw, whereas doubling FL1 throw from 100m to 200m will have the visual and practical difference you would expect.
I saw on the first comment they’re discontinuing the CULNM due to lack of sales. Does anyone even sell a light with the CULNM LED? Sadly my hands shake too much to do any sort of soldering or I would attempt it myself.
Well I hear you both. I sort of lean to luminarium iaculator's perspective, as I also prefer a luminous intensity rating because effective throw depends on the ambient light intensity, and also on our expected over the target light intensity.
However I also understand throw is directly proportional to the square root of luminous intensity, which means there is no direct linear relationship between intensity (candela) and throw (meters).
I do not think that is deceiving, as I understand it. The same applies for anyone knowledgeable in the matter with a minimum of expertise and/or mental agility. This is key.
I could also seriously mess with the way luminous intensity is defined, but overall I guess the actual problems and reasons are often rooted in common people's stupidity and caused by smart people pledging to their uneducated wishes.
Simon Mao will put one in a L21A with an 8 A driver soon and share the results!
Eager to know the results, if they are any good i will certainly buy some parts
