Interest list: Q8 MCPCB with XHP50.2@5000K [DTP only available now at LED4Power]

Mark me in!

Note that you may have to enlarge the reflector holes to fit the new LEDs+gaskets.

I’ve got two Q8 lights from the first sales. They are running Narsil so will they need to be reflashed?

Will they be actual 5000K or the 5700K that seems to be available now?

I forget if they’re easy to disassemble. Does it involve poking and prying and breaking glue joints or is it more straightforward?

Sofirn said 5000K will be available again. That’s all I know for now.

Narsil contains some thermal management code. It ramps up to max and lets the user decide when to step down. I don’t know how well it will work, however.

I have never opened a Q8. To the best of my knowledge, driver and reflector have screws, nothing glued. But that’s hearsay.

Narsil will work (I would hope so as is mine).

Need to ream the reflector to 7 mm dia. and add new gaskets (XPL XM-L footprint; 5050). Also, a new center hole on the MCPCB for the retaining screw. No glue, all screwed.

NarsilM can have the thermal setting quite high - I believe you can disconnect it too (never tried).

Edit; corrected the XPL to XM-L - Thanks Scallywag!

I’m in for one.

Count me in

As PBWilson mentioned, there are some 5700ºK 50.2 on Sofirn’s WebStore. I’d be ok with that tint if 5000º can’t be had / delayed production.

It’s for throwing and shedding a lot of light; not necessarily to look at things up close. Have other flashlights for that.

Me too. If the 5000K can’t be have, I’ll PM around if 5700 is ok for the participants.

I’m potentially interested, but would be much more so if the MCPCB’s were sold alongside reflectors with enlarged holes. Don’t really want to muck around with that, and the option to return back to a stock config whenever would be nice.

@Cythras

Sofirn has stock reflectors for Q8 for ~$7.50 USD https://sofirnlight.com/reflector-for-q8-p0073.html

Q8 is one of the easiest to mod. Nice and big, parts easily replaced. But if you’re not comfortable with modding, well…

Here’s the official (Q8 modding thread ) It needs a of tweaks to get the best performance. Adding to whats already been said. The driver led wires need to replaced with thicker ones. The tailcap screws need to be replaced with brass screws and the FET needs to be replace. Hopefully someone with more experience can fill in the details.

Here’s a quote from Tom E

I’m interested, but it’d be nice to know what bin the leds are.

Didn’t KawiBoy mod one? Anyways, from some Djozz tests, if the 4 emitters were to give 12,000 lumens, that would be “only” 32 amps. But if the conditions are ideal and pushing some 20,000 lumens, some 84 amps are going thru. The tests results for a 6 volt emitter, at 3 volts I doubled the current values (ballpark figures). If the FET can take it, then some other component will be frying. Any little resistance and much heat.

So basically, there would be some mods to push the LEDs to that level. I don’t know about the FET, but the tail spring bypass with some brass screws has usually been done on this light (anyone pushing the envelope). And as for the wires, that shouldn’t be a problem - lots of room in that cavity.

If the FET is the bottleneck, someone would have to chime in and give some before / after outputs.

And coming down to earth, pushing 12,000 lumens isn’t a bad deal for this light. IFAIK KawiBoy got some 16k lumes. I might never find it though (lengthy post).

Minor correction: the XPL footprint is 3535, the XM-L footprint is 5050.

I’ve done this mod (I was the person who asked Sofirn to make me an MCPCB with 3V XHP50.2s so I think I started the craze :smiley: ). A few notes:

It turns the light into an absolute weapon. I measured 16,800 lumens with my Maukka-calibrated sphere. This is up from 6440 lumens with the old XP-Ls. Other “performance” mods on my light include bypassed springs, brass driver and tailcap screws, Anduril firmware, AR glass.

Work involved with this mod is as follows:

- Enlarge the holes in the reflector - this is easy with an electric drill and a countersink bit. It’s a metal reflector so unless you’re being really ham-fisted, you won’t break it. And if worse comes to worst you can buy spares anyway.

- Enlarge the central hole in the MCPCB so you can get the bolt through that holds everything together

  • You will need spacers for the XHP50.2s - I asked Sofirn to include them

Heat-wise, its thermal mass really helps. It takes a while to get painful to hold. Some rough measurements with an IR thermometer on the body:

23c room temp
30c at 30s
32c at 60s
43c at 2.5mins, around 64c internal temp

Good information, thanks a lot Sir :+1:

Linked your comment in the OP.

Intrested, can the Narsil version be flashed to Anduril ?

It can indeed yes, very easily.
Undo the two driver retaining screws, there’s enough length in the wires to fold it back, clip on to the MCU, flash. TK has a Q8 hex file in her repository so if you already have the hardware you’re good to go!

I’ve also done this XHP50.2 mod and it does turn it into a bit of a beast. I used the led4power Q8 MCPCB however, so did the t-bar mod instead of drilling the centre hole out. I got the XHP50.2’s from sofirn (listed as 5300-5700k). With regards numbers, I’m seeing about 14500 lumens. That’s with stock driver, stock screws, and just a spring bypass.

Well that backs up my readings…

This reading on Samsung 20s ….hardest hitting 18650’s I have seen so far…

My reflector sits on the board… I didn’t use centering rings at all…but I had to use a thicker o-ring to seat everything…

Is that a 1:1 lux:lumen reading (divided by 10 obvs)? If so, that’s scarily accurate to mine! :o