I found one slip-on clip that worked and was in no danger of coming off the light. But the clip tension wasn’t the greatest and it stuck out from the light more than I liked. I removed it and replaced with a screw-in clip. Fortunately, the wall of the light where I drilled was thick enough that the screws did not penetrate to the inside.
I don’t have any experience or equipment for tapping screw threads. Instead I just drilled a couple small holes with a hand-held pin-vise drill and let the screws tap their own threads.
Playing around with these clips did scuff up the light a bit though. Darn.
Nice perseverance and result! I don’t think I’ve seen an Angie in an X6 mod before. Is it the same height as the CUTE-3 or do you use a different spacer?
It’s a bit of luck the method I used. I could do smooth(ish) even gradient with torch but I wanted these timascus looking lines and spots.
It was lightly heated to bronze gold throughout with only slight color on just the very tip and then dipped in acid etching solution (ferric chloride) and it instantly (re)oxidizes to this gnarly pattern.
I buffed the optics for my KR4 today. I like the extra throw and it doesn’t seem to affect the tint too much for the E21A 4500K emitters. I also like how the aux LEDs are brighter points of light, rather than the fuzzy ring of color.
When I bought this Ti/Cu version, Hank’s site still had the frosted optic listed as an extra part along with the 18350 tube, tritium, etc. Within hours of ordering, he announced the frosted optic will be standard. So I ended up with two frosted optics, one in the light and one in a tiny ziploc bag.
I made a pair of Nichia Optisolis triple S2+s. One is 5000K and the other 6500K. I usually don’t like cool white LEDs, but I thought it would be “cool” to have the highest CRI LEDs currently available. The 6500K has 99 CRI and 99 CRI R9 - it don’t get much better than that!
I got the LEDs from Virence and the triple boards from Adventure Sport Flashlights.. I wanted to limit the current to less than 2.25 amps so I got some 6x7135 drivers from Simon at the Convoy flashlight Store. I also installed lighted tailcaps so I had to add 470 ohm bleeder resistors to the drivers.
When I put everything together, there was some artifacts in the beams, so I sanded the lenses to make them frosted and the beams turned out great. With 10511 Carclo Narrow Spot Optics the flashlights have some throw.
I was expecting some greenish tint due to the positive Duv test results on the Virence website, but I don’t notice any at all. The 6500K certainly appears bluish on a white wall, but both appear to have some rosiness to them. I’m very pleased with the tint and how the flashlights turned out.
Probably since he’s a flashlight enthusiast like the rest of us, and I’m very appreciative that he sells them! I was actually surprised to find them since I didn’t find any mention of them here on BLF.
Hey, that’s pretty neat. I’d been considering an optisolis light, but couldn’t decide on a good way to do it. I might try with a frosted spot or something for mine, since I’m not concerned about throw.
I’m a bit backed up on mods ATM, though. Hope adventure sport flashlights continues to carry them.
Hope it works out good for you, but dont worry, I know of a chemical solution that will strip anodizing from Ti.
Took me some research to find the right one that most all professinal Ti anodizing companys are using.
It will leave the Ti a little dull but can be polished back without to much effort.
PM me if you need the info.
I’m not anodizing it I guess its oxidizing with heat. Probably easier to revert back, not sure.
In any case the fw3t arrived but the switch is so bad it’s unusable to me. A LED dome 2/3 covered in paste. I can see under two of the LEDs between pads. Going to see if Illumn will exchange it. Shame on Lumintop they should be making these perfect by now.