nice gradient :+1:
will look nice when polished
It’s different, LED4Power sold them with his special 32mm 4x boards.
Angie is beautiful optic for modern LEDs and the large spacer really gives some good runtime on turbo.
It’s a bit of luck the method I used. I could do smooth(ish) even gradient with torch but I wanted these timascus looking lines and spots.
It was lightly heated to bronze gold throughout with only slight color on just the very tip and then dipped in acid etching solution (ferric chloride) and it instantly (re)oxidizes to this gnarly pattern.
ah, missed it the first time… yes, very cool
Looks like lightning to me. Pretty cool.
Well stay tuned. Next week I’ll ruin a perfectly good polished FW3T
If you “ruin” it and it looks like that clip when you’re done…
I’ll cover postage so I can personally dispose of it responsibly 
I buffed the optics for my KR4 today. I like the extra throw and it doesn’t seem to affect the tint too much for the E21A 4500K emitters. I also like how the aux LEDs are brighter points of light, rather than the fuzzy ring of color.
When I bought this Ti/Cu version, Hank’s site still had the frosted optic listed as an extra part along with the 18350 tube, tritium, etc. Within hours of ordering, he announced the frosted optic will be standard. So I ended up with two frosted optics, one in the light and one in a tiny ziploc bag.
I made a pair of Nichia Optisolis triple S2+s. One is 5000K and the other 6500K. I usually don’t like cool white LEDs, but I thought it would be “cool” to have the highest CRI LEDs currently available. The 6500K has 99 CRI and 99 CRI R9 - it don’t get much better than that!
I got the LEDs from Virence and the triple boards from Adventure Sport Flashlights.. I wanted to limit the current to less than 2.25 amps so I got some 6x7135 drivers from Simon at the Convoy flashlight Store. I also installed lighted tailcaps so I had to add 470 ohm bleeder resistors to the drivers.
When I put everything together, there was some artifacts in the beams, so I sanded the lenses to make them frosted and the beams turned out great. With 10511 Carclo Narrow Spot Optics the flashlights have some throw.
I was expecting some greenish tint due to the positive Duv test results on the Virence website, but I don’t notice any at all. The 6500K certainly appears bluish on a white wall, but both appear to have some rosiness to them. I’m very pleased with the tint and how the flashlights turned out.
Impressed I am! :+1:
Cool is Cool
Optisolis 6500k color separation is outstanding
Good color temperature for daywork
Interesting, wonder why he has these boards?
Probably since he’s a flashlight enthusiast like the rest of us, and I’m very appreciative that he sells them! I was actually surprised to find them since I didn’t find any mention of them here on BLF.
Hey, that’s pretty neat. I’d been considering an optisolis light, but couldn’t decide on a good way to do it. I might try with a frosted spot or something for mine, since I’m not concerned about throw.
I’m a bit backed up on mods ATM, though. Hope adventure sport flashlights continues to carry them.
it is helpful to blend the beam of the optisolis with frost or pebble.
because it does not have symmetrical output
I am impressed, and glad to learn, that the optisolis can work in a triple optic
that was unanticipated as the LED is not very similar in height and size, to other typical LEDs that the optics are “designed” for.
seems the frosting is the key 
Hope it works out good for you, but dont worry, I know of a chemical solution that will strip anodizing from Ti.
Took me some research to find the right one that most all professinal Ti anodizing companys are using.
It will leave the Ti a little dull but can be polished back without to much effort.
PM me if you need the info.
I’m not anodizing it I guess its oxidizing with heat. Probably easier to revert back, not sure.
In any case the fw3t arrived but the switch is so bad it’s unusable to me. A LED dome 2/3 covered in paste. I can see under two of the LEDs between pads. Going to see if Illumn will exchange it. Shame on Lumintop they should be making these perfect by now.
They are both basically the same thing, oxidization. I have done both electrically and by heat. The heat anodizing is some what harder to remove.
The higher the temp or voltage on the color scale the thicker the ozidization layer and the harder it is which makes it harder to remove but more durable.
I came across the chemical make up of Multi-Etch.
This ferric chloride is disgusting. Once this is done I don’t plan on using any more. Stains everything and hard to dispose but the look is cool for sure.
Why “hard to dispose of”? It’s basically salty rust. After use, salty copper. Flushes right down, just use enough water so it doesn’t sit in a pipe for too long.
Is this S2+ host from Kaidomain?