lume1 for FW3A/C/T - Constant Current Buck Boost + FET Driver with Anduril - Now for Sale!

Thank you loneoceans for making this driver possible.

I ordered 4, to replace in all my compatible lights. I hopethis design will become available in other sizes so it can be used in other lights as well, even though making it smaller may not be possible.

I would suggest to Neal to include the required wires with the set of driver and aux board, as many of us, myself included, do not have coloured silicone wires of the appropriate size.

Snagged 3 of them… Thanks lone oceans for making this and making it happen! :beer: :+1:

Thanks, ordered 5 to start

Neal verified that no cables are included with the Lume1 driver / aux board set. Can anyone give me the specs for the cables so I can get some?

Quick google search:

US $3.14 44% Off | One Roll 8 Colors 30AWG Wire Wrapping Wire, Tinned Copper Solid, PVC insulation
https://a.aliexpress.com/_dSr6b4A

Thanks! That’s what I needed to know, the 30AWG part :wink:

Should they not be silicone insulated, to handle the heat? Are PVC insulated wires good enough?

30AWG part you could have read it few posts above and PVC part you need to research more...:)

“A typical PVC insulation material has a temperature range of –15°C to 70°C for applications. Silicone rubber typically has a temperature range of –60°C to 180°C”

So, shouldn’t it be silicone in a flashlight?

30AWG silicone should be fine. Teflon would be thinner but IMO is more of a pain to work with otherwise.

Thanks

US $1.81 25% Off | 10metre 30AWG Silicone Wire Ultra Flexiable Cable 0.055mm2 Tinned Copper wire Test Line Wire
https://a.aliexpress.com/_dXHk1xC

Thanks, I’ll probably look for a local source, as I will not have the patience to wait for the wire to arrive once I have the drivers :slight_smile:

I do not believe the tweaking of the resistors to equalize auxiliary LED brightness actually happened or was successful. In my Mokume FW3A, blue is quite dim, red is slightly brighter and green is way brighter than both.

Also, the Aux board was wired using one black, one white and two red wires, which works electrically but does not work with my OCD, so I replaced them with the proper colours.

My Mokume FW3A has the same issue.

And another driver I bought from Neal and installed today as well. I have a sneaking suspicion they may have swapped the resistors for green and blue by mistake.

If anyone can verify…

Post this info in FB group Lumintop Family...

Getting the right resistor values for balanced RGB is somewhat difficult and fiddly, requiring careful adjustment by trial and error. It’s do-able, but it involves a level of care and attention to detail that I was never able to get from Neal or Lumintop during the FW3A project.

The one I built looks like the rgb from the emisars. They aren’t any more balanced imo. Maybe slightly if any

Thanks for this information. It is sad, but very useful to know.

The drivers came with a firmware dated 24/2/2020. I see you have a newer FW3A firmware in your depository. Is the Lume1 driver running the same firmware as the default FW3A driver or is it a different firmware and there is no update on the repository at the moment?

I just put the lume1 light next to my KR4 and I can verify the KR4 is massively more balanced! I did not test with a D4V2 but I don’t expect the aux boards between the 2 are different.

80% of the problem with the lume1 aux board comes from the brightness of the green, which os excessive and overshadows the others. 20% is the too dim blue. If anyone is working with electronics and has resistors available to try, it would be a great service to the community.

If it looks like Emisars, then yours does not have that issue. My Emisars all look great.

My FW3A with Lume1-FW3X has the same issue pol77 mentioned. It looks pretty bad when colors are mixed, because blue and red are too dim compared to green.