lume1 for FW3A/C/T - Constant Current Buck Boost + FET Driver with Anduril - Now for Sale!

Thanks! That’s what I needed to know, the 30AWG part :wink:

Should they not be silicone insulated, to handle the heat? Are PVC insulated wires good enough?

30AWG part you could have read it few posts above and PVC part you need to research more...:)

“A typical PVC insulation material has a temperature range of –15°C to 70°C for applications. Silicone rubber typically has a temperature range of –60°C to 180°C”

So, shouldn’t it be silicone in a flashlight?

30AWG silicone should be fine. Teflon would be thinner but IMO is more of a pain to work with otherwise.

Thanks

US $1.81 25% Off | 10metre 30AWG Silicone Wire Ultra Flexiable Cable 0.055mm2 Tinned Copper wire Test Line Wire
https://a.aliexpress.com/_dXHk1xC

Thanks, I’ll probably look for a local source, as I will not have the patience to wait for the wire to arrive once I have the drivers :slight_smile:

I do not believe the tweaking of the resistors to equalize auxiliary LED brightness actually happened or was successful. In my Mokume FW3A, blue is quite dim, red is slightly brighter and green is way brighter than both.

Also, the Aux board was wired using one black, one white and two red wires, which works electrically but does not work with my OCD, so I replaced them with the proper colours.

My Mokume FW3A has the same issue.

And another driver I bought from Neal and installed today as well. I have a sneaking suspicion they may have swapped the resistors for green and blue by mistake.

If anyone can verify…

Post this info in FB group Lumintop Family...

Getting the right resistor values for balanced RGB is somewhat difficult and fiddly, requiring careful adjustment by trial and error. It’s do-able, but it involves a level of care and attention to detail that I was never able to get from Neal or Lumintop during the FW3A project.

The one I built looks like the rgb from the emisars. They aren’t any more balanced imo. Maybe slightly if any

Thanks for this information. It is sad, but very useful to know.

The drivers came with a firmware dated 24/2/2020. I see you have a newer FW3A firmware in your depository. Is the Lume1 driver running the same firmware as the default FW3A driver or is it a different firmware and there is no update on the repository at the moment?

I just put the lume1 light next to my KR4 and I can verify the KR4 is massively more balanced! I did not test with a D4V2 but I don’t expect the aux boards between the 2 are different.

80% of the problem with the lume1 aux board comes from the brightness of the green, which os excessive and overshadows the others. 20% is the too dim blue. If anyone is working with electronics and has resistors available to try, it would be a great service to the community.

If it looks like Emisars, then yours does not have that issue. My Emisars all look great.

My FW3A with Lume1-FW3X has the same issue pol77 mentioned. It looks pretty bad when colors are mixed, because blue and red are too dim compared to green.

I’ll check again, you guys should move to the other thread. It’s more active

I haven’t merged the lume1 code yet, so I don’t have any builds for it. I need to do that soon; have just been very limited in the amount of time I can spend lately. Also, I don’t have any of the hardware so I don’t have a way to verify if it works after merging. So I’d definitely stick with the stock firmware for a while, until newer versions are tested on real hardware.

Thanks!

All my FW3x lights are utilizing 219b LEDs. Will you be making a firmware safe to use with them like with the stock driver or is it not possible with this hardware? I remember the prototype was using 219b LEDs. Should I maybe stop using my LG HB2 batteries and use something that provides fewer Amps?

I’m using 219B in 3 FW’s. Just use low dischg cell and avoid Turbo if not required and you’ll be fine. New damast will cook any emitter anyway like FW3S did my setup :)

That’s what the FW3A-219 build is for.

It’s probably still a good idea to avoid really high-amp cells though, since the FET pulses the LEDs at full power. The firmware can make those pulses shorter in time, but it can’t make them pull fewer amps during each pulse.