VERY cool! I did not know there were universal rubber ones! Any chance you have a link handy? I like to be prepared ahead of time.
Also, I took mine out in the dark tonight and was pleasantly surprised. I have a Thrunite TN12 as part of my EDC. Although a different tint, they were very comparable. I did note the cheap feel of the threading on the battery cap, and hope I can get away with charging more often than replacing the battery in it. Overall extremely happy with the purchase.
There a lot of universal ones like this for $2.
#Aliexpress US $1.94 31%OFF | Headlamp Headband head Belt head Strap Mount Holder for 18650 Headlight Flashlight Lamp Torch
Some are higher in price and might be better quality. You can also get the ones with the extra strap over the top.
I got one to have as a spare, thanks so much!
Does anyone with the D25S have issues when using click and hold to cycle high to low? Any click or click and hold just cycles from high to low and doesn’t want to cycle low to high unless turned off.
I thought the D25S had the same UI as the D10. On the D10 it only cycles from high to low and never the other way around.
I have the same UI as Funtastic. It’s not really a bother but it does have memory mode so it would be nice to go down when in the medium modes rather than cycle through high. I also can’t seem to go down in modes immediately after turning it on. Just seems like a weird behavior. Though at it’s price I can’t really complain much. I knew I should have gotten more than one Quadrupel driver :person_facepalming:
You need to be aware that there is a feature in the UI that gives you the ability to jump to high if you click within 3 seconds of turn on.
Oh ok I think I get it now. Thanks. Though mine is just within a second. The timing seems to leave little room for error on mine. I guess I’ll just use L-H cycle to avoid frustrations.
Today I modded all my 3 Headlamps.
with 2 Anduril Drivers from Quadrupel and one Attiny 412 from gchart. The second Attiny got a broken leg after some problems with a short causing the LED was always on.
But finaly all 3 Headlamps has ramping with Ramping iOS or Anduril.
I had two Drivers with Ver03 and one with Ver01, so the Ver03 got the Attiny 412.
Thanks to you both.
I changed the LEDs too:
2x LH351d 2700K + 5000K 90CRI
2x XM-L2 NW (3B or similar)
1x SST40 5000K
Drivers and Flashlights from recent posts for reference:
Glad you got them up and going! 
@ gchart. No pics at the moment, but 2 of mine are ver:05. Any idea if your mcu swap will work on those?
Side note. Where in central Illinois? I thought I was the only non-Sh#*cago Illinois resident here.
Are there any TIR optics that are simple drop-ins for either the D25/D10? Browsed quickly through this thread and it looks like the ones that people recommend still need some shaving down to fit.
Sorry for the late reply. I’m in a town on the outskirts of Peoria. I feel the same way about that other city.
I don’t know for sure about version 5. Mine were 3. But the MCUs are inexpensive enough that it wouldn’t cost much to try if you’re interested.
“The manufacturer is ”Aheitong” “:https://detail.1688.com/offer/646068512239.html?spm=a261y.7663282.hotsale.5.5c3855e6XDjFmg All other like Sofirn or Boruit or… are resellers only.
Thank you for informations Quadrupel.
Can you tell me, if it is possible to open front part with reflectors and change LEDs? I dont see any screws?
Dont know, but probably glued.
Depends, they probably changed the process over time. Most people were successful with opening D25-family lights, but some reported that they couldn’t open theirs.
Yeah, I think so too.
D25 have user friendly design.
I have early version of D25 from start of production, where MCPCB with LEDs is pressed to the hole in body headlamp and there is no mass under it.
Second version of D25 from 12/2020- BORUIT have flat surface under MCPCB with good thermal path.
I was curious, what type of design have this headlamp and if it is possible to swap LEDs and make some “Nichia flooder” from it.
