20K lumen ? POT LID LIGHT Water Cooled ( built during C19 shutdown ) FINISHED

smart idea :smiley:

That is a great idea, i might have to grab one at the thrift store too.

So whats the use for the blue painter’s tape? And the thread gage tool? And what’s the diameter of the lid?

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I need to edit the first post with more details. It is 12 inches in diameter. The blue painters tape is to protect the silver paint from scratches. The thread gauge tool was just laying there after I removed it from a box of other tools I had brought home from work in case I had to find another job. At that time we did not know if we were getting paid or not, we later learned we would.

i’m glad to hear it.

Looking forward to more pictures.

Grin’s big reflector thread is more contagious than corona-19…

Thanks guys, :+1:
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Here we drilled the SS lip mounting holes.

Mounting the shroud that I thought would help keep the light in the light, fail. :person_facepalming:


This is a stiffener for the light mount and handle.







Light mount.



The aluminum solder/welding rods are tricky to use with a small propane torch.

Here are the legs with holes for the .25 dia copper tubing.




Read for paint.


Love your work CNCman. This build is reminding me of someone else here I called crazy. :slight_smile:

Hey, is that the lid off the pot from your profile picture?

I am happy someone has been inspired by my ramblings. The mirror looks like a brought one :+1:
They were originally made with an iron die. A piece glass substrate was placed on top then the whole thing put in a furnace and heated until the glass sagged into the die. Then the key was to vacuum it so that the glass was sucked tight against the iron.
Would it be possible to CNC a die from a computer model? It would probably still need polishing by hand to get it prefectly smooth. There is a company who resilvers and restores antique mirrors so the part is sorted just need the sbustrate.

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No, here are some pics of that profile pot full of Crawfish, sausage, corn, potato, garlic, lemon, onion, and Zatarain’s crab/crawfish boil. :+1:
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Notice the piece of aluminum under the burner, it was used for the pot lid light ! LOL
It was painted on the under side, was going in a CH47, the guy cut it too small and it went to the scrap dumpster.
CHI let us take scrap home, so there was plenty of pickings dumpster diving. LOL

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I ain’t sure of what this’ll be, but WOW!! :o
And I have a word in my mind: aliens!! This will spot aliens :smiling_imp:

Great work CNCman :+1:

Gosh them craw-dads shor do look good!
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Here’s a picture from work of the vacuum chuck on the Moore M40 CNC diamond-turning lathe—40” of travel in the x-axis for turning large optics, usually aluminum or copper.

And a project from last year for a parabolic aluminum mirror, no silver needed. It will be recut soon to change the prescription slightly for testing.

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” grin ” you should know that your work has the attention of many here at BLF, Thanks for sharing your fun with us :smiley:
Answer to your question, YES. We have one mold maker employed with me and he provided pics of his work. It is common to get a 16 rms finish on a CNC mill, polishing to 6 rms by hand afterwards, and that was 15 yrs ago.
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One of my 2 concerns for the pot lid was its shape, it is not the quality needed for this use. The defects in form are very visible and the beam reflection is not great. I expected this, but hoped it would be functional and it performed better than expected.
The second concern was light loss from light entering and then exiting thru the glass itself because the mirror surface is on the back of the lid.
One day I will spring for that 12” spotlight reflector for $260.00.
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Wow !! That Moore CNC is a very precision and expensive lathe. I did not know cnc’s could finish machine optical quality and not need a coating to boot !! Thanks for sharing :sunglasses:

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Thanks “MascaratumB”. :slight_smile:
This is just the body and mirror after paint. More work than it looks. The hope was long range but we are not there just yet. I am still trying to tune the beam, right now it’s more of a flooder, but I hope to tighten it up more. :+1:
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Thanks “MRsDNF” , You guys are our inspiration to do those crazy things LOL
This is the spice that helps give BLF its flavor :wink:
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When corona is over there’ll be a get together at your house right….?? We can enjoy the beautiful view, feast and then shoot down aliens when it gets dark :laughing:

Great project CNCman :+1:

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Thanks “pinkpanda3310” :wink: You guys are the best, we are just trying to keep up :beer:
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Rolling the .25 dia copper tubing into place.


Now some copper head parts for water cooling the led.

Center tube and water inlet for direct flooding contact behind the led.

These are ears for maintaining center position.







Added a small reflector to try to keep the light in the mirror and not in me eyes.

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Here we will finish the first build with 1 x XHP70.2 @ 10A 6V.
Battery box from .125 plexyglass.

Bending the plastic was tricky, many mistakes were made and the lessons learned were helpful on the second box.

Mounting bracket.

Forming the driver cooling tube with a heat gun.

The driver is mounted in the handle.







Here is the test at full power at 10 amps 6v. Unfortunately I thought I took some beam pics but not. :person_facepalming:
This is the end of the first build. After this test it was clear more light was needed.

That was some clever coppersmithing to make that heat exchanger tube—got some moonshiner in ya?

Could you adjust the tube position to make a difference in the light coming out?