What did you mod today?

It’s times like this that I’m glad I’m colorblind and needn’t concern myself with things like DUV. :wink:

hmm… I think that’s the first time in my life I’ve claimed to be thankful for being colorblind

I have a 4000k FW3A with an eliptical carclo and a Lee -green (not sure which) as a bicycle light and I gotta say it’s very pleasing to the eye. Very balanced colors and good saturation.

I think shaving or filters would be one thing but both, idk. Couldn’t you have just left the dome on and applied a slightly higher filter?

Knowing that you did both it really would benefit to know: output and kcd with dome on, shaved, and shaved+filter to see what tradeoffs you made.

I never intended to add a filter, it was just a test. I don’t like using them, but sometimes they just fix a green problem and make something perfect.
It could even be an 805 which is minor.

Shaving and filters are very different things. Filters have MUCH less effect and most importantly, take 10 seconds to install or remove by hand.

Without the dome the difference in throw is quite amazing, not to mention the cct and tint changes. Throw changes make it more like a Osram flat white than say a Nichia.
There is an output drop for sure so a multi is nice.

I don’t have a lumen tube but I might be able to do some lux measurements when I do the single 3500k.

The purpose of this light was a high cri throwy triple with usb charging.
Its proven quite a fun light to walk around the house at night lighting up coloured things with an explosion of saturation :smiley:

More of the emitters finally arrived so I’ve got more things to do. I want something with a much higher drive and no filter ideally, hopefully a multi.
Probably also a fw3a with the new lume1 buck/boost driver to improve efficiency.

I’d never thought about that.
Out of interest, what do you see in cct changes? Surely 6500k and 2700k still look very different to you thought right? Do you not see tint at all?

CCT, in general, yes. I can’t tell that a 6500K is particularly blue, purple, or green. But I can tell that when I turn it on in a dark room vs a 4000K light that it is stark and bothersome. But I’ve NEVER looked at a beam and been like “ugh, such green!” (or even “man, look at how this 95-CRI YUJI makes the colors pop!”)

A bless and a curse indeed!

Yeah. I just received the Wuben E19UV light and thought it was a really cool shade of blue until my wife had to ruin it for me and inform me that flashlight is in fact purple.

Haha, don’t let anyone else’s opinion change what you like! While it’s fun to impress others, what you like is all that matters!

Hugs collection of warm/pink lights
For all I know my eyes are wrong too, but I like what I like.

Sounds like a matter of opinion, I’m with you, its blue. :wink:

Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 Ti XP-L HI 5A3 – Lxl Anduril – 14500 – Piston Drive – 1050lm.

Really cool mod. It’s like it addresses every aspect of the Tool I dont like and changes it to something amazing.

Thanks, yes it is much better now :THUMBS-UP:

CRX 16340 Copper Zoomie CSLNM1.TG – CMK – 16340 – RV Clicky Tail Sw – 445lm.

Wow.
CRX is at it again

CRX Atom Ti Zoomie CSLPM1.TG – LD-A4 6A – 18350 – Lighted Clicky Tail Sw – 820lm, 432lm, 369m.

Shait...

I have dozen of Atoms just waiting for some love

Tiny AAA modded to shaved LH351D 5000K

Heat bezel to break glue, pliers + mouse pad to unscrew.

Reflow 219B, get polarity wrong cause XP-G2 confuses me.

Reflow 219B again (pre-heater + hot air + kapton tape stuffed in the bottom).

Discover tons of artifacts in beam. Undo glow tape again.

Reflow sliced LH351D.



On The Road Z821, 3rd LED change for this guy.

Now has CULPM1 “Boost HX” 64 - 70 kcd depending on driver setting. Done with this one, good enough.

Some great looking mods and posts CRX! :heart_eyes:

Added FW3A clips to a couple Emisar D4.


I really like the FW3A clip. It slips easily onto pockets and is very low-profile and comfortable.

The FW3A clip slips perfectly onto the D4v2 18500 tube. However, the threads on the D4v2 18650 tube and the original D4 tubes are just a tiny bit too wide. The clip won’t slip past the threads.

However, I noticed that it was really close. And while the clips did not slip past the threads when inserted straight, I could actually screw them onto the threads. In this way the clip travels through to the other side of the threads and can be used normally.

This was a very simple and easy to do mod. However, a couple other things were needed:

  • Before screwing in the clip, remove the tail o-ring from the body tube. Replace it on top of the clip after the clip is isntalled.
  • The clip has some thickness and will prevent the tailcap from screwing all the way down. It was necessary to add a spacer at the bottom of the tailcap to allow electrical connection. A thin copper washer or bit of sheet metal cut into the shape of a washer worked.

This. :+1: