I never intended to add a filter, it was just a test. I don’t like using them, but sometimes they just fix a green problem and make something perfect.
It could even be an 805 which is minor.
Shaving and filters are very different things. Filters have MUCH less effect and most importantly, take 10 seconds to install or remove by hand.
Without the dome the difference in throw is quite amazing, not to mention the cct and tint changes. Throw changes make it more like a Osram flat white than say a Nichia.
There is an output drop for sure so a multi is nice.
I don’t have a lumen tube but I might be able to do some lux measurements when I do the single 3500k.
The purpose of this light was a high cri throwy triple with usb charging.
Its proven quite a fun light to walk around the house at night lighting up coloured things with an explosion of saturation
More of the emitters finally arrived so I’ve got more things to do. I want something with a much higher drive and no filter ideally, hopefully a multi.
Probably also a fw3a with the new lume1 buck/boost driver to improve efficiency.
I’d never thought about that.
Out of interest, what do you see in cct changes? Surely 6500k and 2700k still look very different to you thought right? Do you not see tint at all?
CCT, in general, yes. I can’t tell that a 6500K is particularly blue, purple, or green. But I can tell that when I turn it on in a dark room vs a 4000K light that it is stark and bothersome. But I’ve NEVER looked at a beam and been like “ugh, such green!” (or even “man, look at how this 95-CRI YUJI makes the colors pop!”)
Yeah. I just received the Wuben E19UV light and thought it was a really cool shade of blue until my wife had to ruin it for me and inform me that flashlight is in fact purple.
I really like the FW3A clip. It slips easily onto pockets and is very low-profile and comfortable.
The FW3A clip slips perfectly onto the D4v2 18500 tube. However, the threads on the D4v2 18650 tube and the original D4 tubes are just a tiny bit too wide. The clip won’t slip past the threads.
However, I noticed that it was really close. And while the clips did not slip past the threads when inserted straight, I could actually screw them onto the threads. In this way the clip travels through to the other side of the threads and can be used normally.
This was a very simple and easy to do mod. However, a couple other things were needed:
Before screwing in the clip, remove the tail o-ring from the body tube. Replace it on top of the clip after the clip is isntalled.
The clip has some thickness and will prevent the tailcap from screwing all the way down. It was necessary to add a spacer at the bottom of the tailcap to allow electrical connection. A thin copper washer or bit of sheet metal cut into the shape of a washer worked.
I cut 2 small pieces of kapton tape and stuffed them in the battery + side to keep those bits in place (removing the foam insulator cause I dont know how it handles heat), honestly gravity MIGHT be enough but better to be safe.
I stuck the whole head minus bezel, minus glow tape on the preheater we both have, set to ~200 I think.
Since the heat transfer is bad with Ti and all these connections even at 200 it really wont reflow yet, which is good. Around 190 on preheater I take hot air set to around 385F/19xC and fan speed all the way low and I apply heat from the top. Distance is maybe 4 inches away and I work my way around the LED sometimes going in a bit closer. Since you are removing the LED you could honestly just hold it there but I dont want other pieces to overheat or move. Keep trying to lightly pick up LED with tweezers till it gives in. (* take a picture before you remove it so you know polarity!!)
To apply new LED it’s similar with one small change to make your life easier:
If solder on board looks good and even and you are using brand new LED then put the smallest dot of solder paste you can with toothpick on all 3 pads of driver. So small you think it wont even do anything (you cant easily squeeze out extra). Optionally you can continue to next step and additionally apply flux paste as well, probably recommended.
If solder on boar looks good and you are using a used LED dont apply any solder paste. Substitute with flux paste. Blob some on a napkin or something then dip your LED in it to cover the bottom. Blot the excess and spread it around with a clean part of the napkin and you should see a nice coating on the underside.
When you go to reflow it the flux paste and/or solder paste sandwiched between the driver and LED will allow the hot air to re-melt the solder even sooner than when you removed it the first time, give it a tap or center it if necessary.