Sounds like a matter of opinion, I’m with you, its blue. 
Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 Ti XP-L HI 5A3 – Lxl Anduril – 14500 – Piston Drive – 1050lm.
Really cool mod. It’s like it addresses every aspect of the Tool I dont like and changes it to something amazing.
Thanks, yes it is much better now :THUMBS-UP:
CRX 16340 Copper Zoomie CSLNM1.TG – CMK – 16340 – RV Clicky Tail Sw – 445lm.
Wow.
CRX is at it again
CRX Atom Ti Zoomie CSLPM1.TG – LD-A4 6A – 18350 – Lighted Clicky Tail Sw – 820lm, 432lm, 369m.
Shait...
I have dozen of Atoms just waiting for some love
Tiny AAA modded to shaved LH351D 5000K
Heat bezel to break glue, pliers + mouse pad to unscrew.
Reflow 219B, get polarity wrong cause XP-G2 confuses me.
Reflow 219B again (pre-heater + hot air + kapton tape stuffed in the bottom).
Discover tons of artifacts in beam. Undo glow tape again.
Reflow sliced LH351D.
On The Road Z821, 3rd LED change for this guy.
Now has CULPM1 “Boost HX” 64 - 70 kcd depending on driver setting. Done with this one, good enough.
Some great looking mods and posts CRX! 
Added FW3A clips to a couple Emisar D4.
I really like the FW3A clip. It slips easily onto pockets and is very low-profile and comfortable.
The FW3A clip slips perfectly onto the D4v2 18500 tube. However, the threads on the D4v2 18650 tube and the original D4 tubes are just a tiny bit too wide. The clip won’t slip past the threads.
However, I noticed that it was really close. And while the clips did not slip past the threads when inserted straight, I could actually screw them onto the threads. In this way the clip travels through to the other side of the threads and can be used normally.
This was a very simple and easy to do mod. However, a couple other things were needed:
- Before screwing in the clip, remove the tail o-ring from the body tube. Replace it on top of the clip after the clip is isntalled.
- The clip has some thickness and will prevent the tailcap from screwing all the way down. It was necessary to add a spacer at the bottom of the tailcap to allow electrical connection. A thin copper washer or bit of sheet metal cut into the shape of a washer worked.
This. :+1:
congrats on a difficult sounding mod
how do you reflow to that board?
I cut 2 small pieces of kapton tape and stuffed them in the battery + side to keep those bits in place (removing the foam insulator cause I dont know how it handles heat), honestly gravity MIGHT be enough but better to be safe.
I stuck the whole head minus bezel, minus glow tape on the preheater we both have, set to ~200 I think.
Since the heat transfer is bad with Ti and all these connections even at 200 it really wont reflow yet, which is good. Around 190 on preheater I take hot air set to around 385F/19xC and fan speed all the way low and I apply heat from the top. Distance is maybe 4 inches away and I work my way around the LED sometimes going in a bit closer. Since you are removing the LED you could honestly just hold it there but I dont want other pieces to overheat or move. Keep trying to lightly pick up LED with tweezers till it gives in. (* take a picture before you remove it so you know polarity!!)
To apply new LED it’s similar with one small change to make your life easier:
If solder on board looks good and even and you are using brand new LED then put the smallest dot of solder paste you can with toothpick on all 3 pads of driver. So small you think it wont even do anything (you cant easily squeeze out extra). Optionally you can continue to next step and additionally apply flux paste as well, probably recommended.
If solder on boar looks good and you are using a used LED dont apply any solder paste. Substitute with flux paste. Blob some on a napkin or something then dip your LED in it to cover the bottom. Blot the excess and spread it around with a clean part of the napkin and you should see a nice coating on the underside.
When you go to reflow it the flux paste and/or solder paste sandwiched between the driver and LED will allow the hot air to re-melt the solder even sooner than when you removed it the first time, give it a tap or center it if necessary.
> I cut 2 small pieces of kapton tape and stuffed them in the battery + side to keep those bits in place
ah, thanks for those details
> I take hot air set to around [200C] and fan speed all the way low and I apply heat from the top. Distance is maybe 4 inches away
very useful details
> using brand new LED then put …Solder Paste …on … pads of driver.
Like your strategy 
flux and solder paste really make re-flowing easy. kind of have to treat it like any other component. re-flowing on solid copper pcb is nearly foolproof and the extra heat sometimes lets you get away with joining two bits of crusty old solder when you probably shouldn’t. if you clean stuff first and apply flux paste the solder will flow like it’s brand new for several reflows. it’s easier cleaning up the sticky mess it makes after your stuff cools than to try to go without it.
Parts finally came in for a full driver build from scratch using an Attiny1616 running Anduril, which I’ve recently ported over to the new 1-Series chips. I have other flashlights running Anduril on a 1-Series but they’re kinda hacked together with adapter boards.
This is a 20mm FET+1 layout. Installed it in a Sofirn SC31B. Somehow the stars aligned and it compiled first try, and when I flashed it, everything worked. I love it when something goes right for once!
sorry, I hadn’t cleaned flux off yet
There’s nothing revolutionary about the driver itself, but now we’ve got a full test model with the 1-Series.
Nice work! Those 3 holes at the bottom are for flashing right? Looks quite roomy.
Roomy, yes. Being 20mm I didn’t worry about packing things in. Can easily go 17mm and probably 15mm.
Driver as Oshpark: OSH Park ~
Programming Key: OSH Park ~
That 3 pin key really is nice, so small and those pads can fit anywhere.
So this is potentially a driver that could be wired to a USB charger port for flashing?