> I cut 2 small pieces of kapton tape and stuffed them in the battery + side to keep those bits in place
ah, thanks for those details
> I take hot air set to around [200C] and fan speed all the way low and I apply heat from the top. Distance is maybe 4 inches away
very useful details
> using brand new LED then put …Solder Paste …on … pads of driver.
Like your strategy 
flux and solder paste really make re-flowing easy. kind of have to treat it like any other component. re-flowing on solid copper pcb is nearly foolproof and the extra heat sometimes lets you get away with joining two bits of crusty old solder when you probably shouldn’t. if you clean stuff first and apply flux paste the solder will flow like it’s brand new for several reflows. it’s easier cleaning up the sticky mess it makes after your stuff cools than to try to go without it.
Parts finally came in for a full driver build from scratch using an Attiny1616 running Anduril, which I’ve recently ported over to the new 1-Series chips. I have other flashlights running Anduril on a 1-Series but they’re kinda hacked together with adapter boards.
This is a 20mm FET+1 layout. Installed it in a Sofirn SC31B. Somehow the stars aligned and it compiled first try, and when I flashed it, everything worked. I love it when something goes right for once!
sorry, I hadn’t cleaned flux off yet
There’s nothing revolutionary about the driver itself, but now we’ve got a full test model with the 1-Series.
Nice work! Those 3 holes at the bottom are for flashing right? Looks quite roomy.
Roomy, yes. Being 20mm I didn’t worry about packing things in. Can easily go 17mm and probably 15mm.
Driver as Oshpark: OSH Park ~
Programming Key: OSH Park ~
That 3 pin key really is nice, so small and those pads can fit anywhere.
So this is potentially a driver that could be wired to a USB charger port for flashing?
Congratulations gchart, awesome job. I know you been working on this for awhile.
Glad you got everything working as expected, which I knew you would 
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FW3A with Osram Red Flat and lume1 driver and RGB aux board. Even at the regulated 3A it kind of hurts to look at the beam in a small room. It’s a bit crazy.
I’m going to edit this post in the lume1 thread later with more build details.
Wowsers, nice build!
That is a tight fit - nice job contactcr!
beautiful work :+1:
I dont like the feeling I get when I see the beam of my 620nm Orange/Red, its a disorienting color.
going to try 660nm next….
pic courtesy of andy zhu @azhu
what are your impressions of the reds youve tried?
It peaks at 625, but avg 620-625nm, which is spot on from datasheet.
The camera picks up even more red than my eyes see.
My impression of red LEDs? I don’t know what to use them for but you better believe the first/last/next time i’m on a submarine i’ll be the talk of the sea. There are probably hogs, coyotes and deer in that tree line but the red light wont help me avoid fire ants on the way. haha
pain relief, after the ants bite you
faster healing, energize mitochondria, improve vision…
In the Mood Light
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Nice work ‘gchart’ 
, You guys amaze my building these drivers :+1:
Just finished fixing the MT09 Buffalo led that fried after converting a 6v mcpcb to 12v to match Lexel’s 6A driver.
Burnt one and new parts.
. 8512 lux @ 6.46 meters.
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I am very happy with this finished Buffalo, it is the most enjoyable mod I have done. It is very bright
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Stock approx - 4100 lumens, 450 meter throw
modded approx - 6500 lumens, 1200 meter throw
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Daaaang. Nice work. Glad you got it up and running again.
I upgraded my 2x D4sV1 lights with D4sv2 drivers and rgb aux boards. While I had them apart, I swapped some sst20 660nm emitters into one of them. My house is about 100 yards away in this picture.
Very cool. 
Superb. May we see some driver pics?