Can anyone comment on the finish of the KR4 Ti vs the D4V2 Ti? I was hoping for something smooth. I found the grip and machining far too abrasive on the titanium D4V2.
Fairly close or equal in output to XP-L HI, hotter than XP-L HI but cooler than 219C or SST-20, floodier than XP-L HI (pretty close to XP-L HD in beam profile with less tint shift), tint varies wildly depending on batch/bin. If Hank finally got some I would wager the tint is at least decent.
Has anyone tried modifying the mcpcb to allow the optic to sit lower with these emitters? I’m thinking a counterbore that allows the legs to sit ~0.3mm or so lower might make a meaningful difference in beam characteristics.
I hear it looks pretty good that way. It has even attained meme status, thanks to the peculiar product code of one of the nicest and most popular bins.
It’s called a SPHWHTL3DA0GF4RTS6, often shortened to “DA0GF4RTS” or “dogfarts”. It’s a nice-looking tint bin. But while it’s nice as-is, I hear the beam is significantly improved by slicing off most of the dome to make it work like an XP-L HI emitter. This is typically referred to as “sliced dogfarts”.
I got my KR1 today.
I’m not perfectly happy with 2 things:
the switch feel ain’t good. I much prefer my piston e-switch light from CRX.
I hate clips and I don’t use lanyard. Forcing me to use either a lanyard ring or a switch is unfortunate. At the lower edge of OK but definitely not good.
Sadly that’s true. I’ve disassembled mine and tried to improve it, but failed. I think there’s not much potential for modding the original switch.
Not sure what you mean. You can use the flashlight without any ring if you want. There will be a tiny gap, but it doesn’t affect water resistance or function.
Is the brass disc the equivalent of the plastic nubbin in the FW ?
I don’t have a KR to play with but has anyone tried an o-ring mod in this switch? Seems to have very similar design and other than dimensional changes, I can’t see why it wouldn’t have a similar result.
I tried the mod on my KR4 with a #36 O-ring. The button felt worse for me. No increase in resistance and more side to side slop. I might try again if I can 3D print a gasket that sits between the button lip and tail cap to stabilize and reduce the slop. I actually use these gaskets on FW3s and it makes a really nice clicky E-switch. I just need to size it up to match the dimensions of the KR4 body.
I put the brass nubbin over the bump on the metal button cover and it vastly improved the feel of my KR4Ti switch. It fits perfectly there, so I figured it had just been assembled wrong at the factory.