Is it glued? I thought you couldn’t take apart the tailcap like the fw3a.
I made a tool with exact fit and had to apply some force. It was either very tight or had a tiny amount of transparent glue (couldn’t see anything).
My KR4 was not glued but was torqued very tight. It needed a spammer tool to open without damaging the brass retaining ring.
Can anyone comment on the finish of the KR4 Ti vs the D4V2 Ti? I was hoping for something smooth. I found the grip and machining far too abrasive on the titanium D4V2.
The abrasivness will go with use . I did a photo session with mine on strong linen and it did diminished only by moving it around .
Fairly close or equal in output to XP-L HI, hotter than XP-L HI but cooler than 219C or SST-20, floodier than XP-L HI (pretty close to XP-L HD in beam profile with less tint shift), tint varies wildly depending on batch/bin. If Hank finally got some I would wager the tint is at least decent.
De-doming one would be interesting. Probably need to disassemble the head to get a flat cut.
+1
Has anyone tried modifying the mcpcb to allow the optic to sit lower with these emitters? I’m thinking a counterbore that allows the legs to sit ~0.3mm or so lower might make a meaningful difference in beam characteristics.
Thanks for the response! If I get one I’d have to think long and hard about changing from the ever reliable XPL HI led that’s for sure…
I hear it looks pretty good that way. It has even attained meme status, thanks to the peculiar product code of one of the nicest and most popular bins.
It’s called a SPHWHTL3DA0GF4RTS6, often shortened to “DA0GF4RTS” or “dogfarts”. It’s a nice-looking tint bin. But while it’s nice as-is, I hear the beam is significantly improved by slicing off most of the dome to make it work like an XP-L HI emitter. This is typically referred to as “sliced dogfarts”.
well that made for an interesting google search… did find a couple of hits though “[1]”:Reddit - Dive into anything, “[2]”:Reddit - Dive into anything.
any ideas if the 3500k e21a is coming back in stock?
Hey Hank,
Any update on when the new clip design will be released?
I got my KR1 today.
I’m not perfectly happy with 2 things:
- the switch feel ain’t good. I much prefer my piston e-switch light from CRX.
- I hate clips and I don’t use lanyard. Forcing me to use either a lanyard ring or a switch is unfortunate. At the lower edge of OK but definitely not good.
Other than this - a good light.
Sadly that’s true. I’ve disassembled mine and tried to improve it, but failed. I think there’s not much potential for modding the original switch.
Not sure what you mean. You can use the flashlight without any ring if you want. There will be a tiny gap, but it doesn’t affect water resistance or function.
Is the brass disc the equivalent of the plastic nubbin in the FW ?
I don’t have a KR to play with but has anyone tried an o-ring mod in this switch? Seems to have very similar design and other than dimensional changes, I can’t see why it wouldn’t have a similar result.
Yes, the nubbin for the KR4 is brass.
I tried the mod on my KR4 with a #36 O-ring. The button felt worse for me. No increase in resistance and more side to side slop. I might try again if I can 3D print a gasket that sits between the button lip and tail cap to stabilize and reduce the slop. I actually use these gaskets on FW3s and it makes a really nice clicky E-switch. I just need to size it up to match the dimensions of the KR4 body.
I put the brass nubbin over the bump on the metal button cover and it vastly improved the feel of my KR4Ti switch. It fits perfectly there, so I figured it had just been assembled wrong at the factory.
The gap is indeed tiny with 18350 tube but with 18650 one can clearly see that something is missing. It works but looks bad.
I guess I’ll just file the tubes a bit,
Let me know if this is right… (again, I don’t own a KR light — yet)
The order you used was:
SS switch button > Brass nubbin > Rubber boot > Switch board ?
This means you have rubber rubber adjacent to the diaphragm switch, assuming I’m correct. More or less this is what is ultimately desired IMO to increase activation force.
This also makes me wonder how an o-ring would perform in the “trakcon” configuration…