Has anyone tried modifying the mcpcb to allow the optic to sit lower with these emitters? I’m thinking a counterbore that allows the legs to sit ~0.3mm or so lower might make a meaningful difference in beam characteristics.
I hear it looks pretty good that way. It has even attained meme status, thanks to the peculiar product code of one of the nicest and most popular bins.
It’s called a SPHWHTL3DA0GF4RTS6, often shortened to “DA0GF4RTS” or “dogfarts”. It’s a nice-looking tint bin. But while it’s nice as-is, I hear the beam is significantly improved by slicing off most of the dome to make it work like an XP-L HI emitter. This is typically referred to as “sliced dogfarts”.
I got my KR1 today.
I’m not perfectly happy with 2 things:
the switch feel ain’t good. I much prefer my piston e-switch light from CRX.
I hate clips and I don’t use lanyard. Forcing me to use either a lanyard ring or a switch is unfortunate. At the lower edge of OK but definitely not good.
Sadly that’s true. I’ve disassembled mine and tried to improve it, but failed. I think there’s not much potential for modding the original switch.
Not sure what you mean. You can use the flashlight without any ring if you want. There will be a tiny gap, but it doesn’t affect water resistance or function.
Is the brass disc the equivalent of the plastic nubbin in the FW ?
I don’t have a KR to play with but has anyone tried an o-ring mod in this switch? Seems to have very similar design and other than dimensional changes, I can’t see why it wouldn’t have a similar result.
I tried the mod on my KR4 with a #36 O-ring. The button felt worse for me. No increase in resistance and more side to side slop. I might try again if I can 3D print a gasket that sits between the button lip and tail cap to stabilize and reduce the slop. I actually use these gaskets on FW3s and it makes a really nice clicky E-switch. I just need to size it up to match the dimensions of the KR4 body.
I put the brass nubbin over the bump on the metal button cover and it vastly improved the feel of my KR4Ti switch. It fits perfectly there, so I figured it had just been assembled wrong at the factory.
The gap is indeed tiny with 18350 tube but with 18650 one can clearly see that something is missing. It works but looks bad.
I guess I’ll just file the tubes a bit,
This means you have rubber rubber adjacent to the diaphragm switch, assuming I’m correct. More or less this is what is ultimately desired IMO to increase activation force.
This also makes me wonder how an o-ring would perform in the “trakcon” configuration…
When you say side to side slop, do you mean the SS switch cover would become loose®? Or does that mean it became more sensitive to pressure on the edge of the swtich? Or that when pressing the button, it would seem to move “off-axis”, i.e. not just straight down and back?
When you say side to side slop, do you mean the SS switch cover would become loose®? Or does that mean it became more sensitive to pressure on the edge of the swtich? Or that when pressing the button, it would seem to move “off-axis”, i.e. not just straight down and back?
Does the lanyard ring from the KR1 fit a D4 Ti (first edition)? I now I have to sand the tail cap down to make room for a lanyard ring, but does the inner diameter of the lanyard ring fit (with or without sanding)?
It’s a combination of the first and third issues you described. The button does not sit as snugly against the tail cap as the O-ring (at least the ones I use) are thinner than the brass nub, so there’s loss in height. This also makes the button wobbly, not moving as straight up and down and more prone to rubbing and jamming against the edge of the tail cap.